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SV V6 Restoration

Beamin

Platinum Level Sponsor
Well, the mobile media blaster arrives in a couple hours. I sure hope there's enough good metal left over when he's done to put this back together. Based on what I've discovered so far, I've got many months of metal repair ahead of me..


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Stormbringer

Donation Time
Just started a similar project. How are the rocker panels?
 

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Beamin

Platinum Level Sponsor
Inner panels are toast. From what I can see of the middle structural members, at a minimum I'll be doing some patching, but most likely replacing. Can't wait to get all the paint off to see what other surprises await.
 

Stormbringer

Donation Time
My outer and inner are also20191011_102656.jpg junk. The very inner most piece is OK. Just two patches needed. Next step is to get the inner rocker tacked in and rebuild the door pillar.
 

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Charles Johns

Donation Time
Looking at this Sunbeam I am reminded just how lucky we are in the South to not deal with winter salt, snow, lots of rainy days, and COLD! When I sold my 32 Ford coupe back in 76 to a cop from Lincoln Nebraska, he was adamant about me having the car's original TEXAS title...which I did. Most of the cars I built just needed a little phosphoric acid brushed on then rinsed off, then a little paint or undercoating. You guys don't even have metal in places.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Looking at this Sunbeam I am reminded just how lucky we are in the South to not deal with winter salt, snow, lots of rainy days, and COLD! When I sold my 32 Ford coupe back in 76 to a cop from Lincoln Nebraska, he was adamant about me having the car's original TEXAS title...which I did. Most of the cars I built just needed a little phosphoric acid brushed on then rinsed off, then a little paint or undercoating. You guys don't even have metal in places.
And where we have metal, it is often suspiciously thin. That brings forth an almost unanswerable question "How thin can this panel be and still be safe?"

I hate rust.
Bill
 

Beamin

Platinum Level Sponsor
Well, I’m making progress. Media blasted to bare metal. LOTS of new metal welded in place. Rust encapsulated internal frame paint applied. Seams caulked. Epoxy primed. Lizard skin sprayed on the interior. Filler applied and block sanded. Got enough epoxy primer left in the can to hit it again, then a high build primer, more sanding, and hopefully paint by the end of the month.

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Beamin

Platinum Level Sponsor
Progress! Time to start adding pieces and parts back on.
 

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Aladin Sane

Diamond Level Sponsor
Nice. I wish I had taken the front assembly off of mine at some time it has been sitting in the paint shop so I could have finished a similar referb. Yours looks great.
 

Beamin

Platinum Level Sponsor
It just can’t ever be easy, can it??

Got the front suspension assembly positioned fairly easily. Three bolts installed, no problem. Last bolt feels like its about to tighten up, then frees up…starts to get snug, then spins. Appears as if I’ve got stripped threads on one of the rear attachment points.

Hopefully I can find a 1/2-20 helicoil kit in town somewhere, then drop the front assembly and hope I can make the repair. GRRRRRRR… :mad::mad:
 

Beamin

Platinum Level Sponsor
Does anyone happen to know the depth of the mounting hole for the rear bolt on the cross member? Multiple helicoil options are available online…figured I could place the order now and get it on its way. It’ll probably be a day or two before I can get around to dropping the front suspension to check.
 

sunalp

Diamond Level Sponsor
Jan is right, get a tap and run the threads with it. They are fine and can get mashed, just go slow and steady
and use some grease on the tap. You should be fine.
 

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
Does anyone happen to know the depth of the mounting hole for the rear bolt on the cross member? Multiple helicoil options are available online…figured I could place the order now and get it on its way. It’ll probably be a day or two before I can get around to dropping the front suspension to check.
Andy,

I truly doubt the threads need replaced and, rather, I suggest the first twist of threads may have gotten slightly pulled when the crossmember was removed. This is typical once the final bolt is being removed and the weight of the cross yanks the bolt out just a bit before its ready.

I suggest you try to turn the offending bolt by finger into the frame once the cross is out and, if it binds, look for damaged/dirty threads in the hole or on the bolt. It's more likely the threads just need dressed.

It the bolt screws in without the cross in place, its likely you have an alignment issue (IMO, this is your problem). I hope you have another set of hands helping you since this is really difficult alone (even with a jack). BTW, a little oil helps, too.

Mark ..... v
 

Beamin

Platinum Level Sponsor
False alarm! I just went out and cranked on the ratchet a couple more times and it tightened right up. Seemed like I turned on that last bolt FOREVER last night and wasn’t getting anywhere. Perhaps as others mentioned, it just wasn’t lining up quite right at first and took a whole lot of turning before the threads actually engaged. Or perhaps the close proximity of the beer fridge resulted in a lapse in judgement. Regardless, now I’m on to the back end. Thanks for all the advise!

I did find my method of positioning the front suspension to be pretty damn easy. I had tires mounted and the whole unit was sitting on wheel dollies. Rather than try to raise the cross member up to the car, I lowered the car down to the cross member. I’ve done it the other way before and remember it being a rather exciting solo project. Working by myself last night, it only took about an hour to get the suspension positioned and bolted in place, and that was apparently with a decent beer buzz…
 
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