Newbie Darksider

[gordonra]

I went to the hardware store to get a 1/8 pipe thread tap and plugs for the smog holes in the exhaust ports. They had 1 plug @ 4.99 and no pipe thread tap. I suppose I could look into a specialty hardware store but but is there some sort of high heat epoxy solution or are plugs the only way to go?

Hi John,

Exhaust gas temps will typically be 350° to 500°F, so you can use JB Weld to fill those holes because it's good to 500°F. However, the more "professional" solution would be to use a pipe plug.

McMaster Carr or McFaddenDale Hardware will definately have what you need, and most any Ace Hardware, or even Home Depot will also. Regardless which way you go, ensure that the plug does not stick out past the machined surface of the head.

In the case of pipe plugs, a good choice is a socket head (not hex head as we used on your manifold) in a short version. McFaddenDale is the best choice for finding these.

Check this web page to see the proper plug:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#50785K112
1/8 NPT, 3/16" Hex Key, Part Number 50785K112, Cost $0.73

This is a link for the tap:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2525A169

Tapping the holes isn't difficult, but you need to be careful about getting the metal chips down inside the engine, and breaking a tap would not be nice either. If you are uneasy about tapping these holes, hang on until Kelly or I can give you a hand. (Edit: I already have a tap, so you wouldn't need to buy one)

Make sure you use teflon tape as I showed you when installing the pipe plugs.

Regards,

Rich

 

[SoCalpine]

Hi John,

Exhaust gas temps will typically be 350° to 500°F, so you can use JB Weld to fill those holes because it's good to 500°F. However, the more "professional" solution would be to use a pipe plug.

If you are uneasy about tapping these holes, hang on until Kelly or I can give you a hand. (Edit: I already have a tap, so you wouldn't need to buy one)

I'm sure the exhaust temp for my engine will be at least 501°F, so yes, I'll pick up the plugs and wait for the experts, and your tap.

Right now I'm on the hunt for a harmonic balancer. The one I scored on Fleabay was cracked too, so the seller refunded my $, but I'm not having any luck finding another one. I've tried Napa and RockAuto.

 

[gordonra]

I'm sure the exhaust temp for my engine will be at least 501°F, so yes, I'll pick up the plugs and wait for the experts, and your tap.

Right now I'm on the hunt for a harmonic balancer. The one I scored on Fleabay was cracked too, so the seller refunded my $, but I'm not having any luck finding another one. I've tried Napa and RockAuto.

I happen to know that 2 or 3 of the yards in Onterio / Riverside have/had Rangers with 2.8 engines. Unfortunately, you can't call, you have to go find it and pull it yourself.

This is one yard that had 2-3 2.8 Rangers: http://www.pickapartauto.com/Ontario.html

Rich

 

[SoCalpine]

Thanks Rich, but I need a part in a box in the mail. I'm not going to be able to take a day trip to the IE. I'm glad ranger will work at least. Are there any of the aftermarket ones that will work? The net seems to be awash in them, though it seems all for different motors.

Scratch that. Found one in Colorado for $35.

 

[SoCalpine]

Okay, so My balancer is here. I got it out of the box and wire brushed it. It had apparently been buried in the ground since 1986 by the looks of it. Of course now I'm looking at it and I see that it is much heavier than the old cracked Capri part I had hoped to use and has a channel for a 2nd belt, which I know I don't need. Have I just flushed another $50? Can I use it as is? Do I need to find a shop to cut it down? Is there an aftermarket one that will work?

 

[gordonra]

Hi John,

The pulley should bolt to the front of the balancer with four screws. If you take those screws out, the pulley should seperate and allow you to use just the back one. (At least that's the way mine was).

Rich

 

[SoCalpine]

So, I just wasted $50 then. I'm just going to have to lay out all these parts and have someone take a look. There was a smaller part inside the pulley, kind of a metal disk with a hole in the middle and four bolt holes. Somehow, I don't think that's what you mean though. Maybe it was the crank pulley that was cracked and I'm just sitting on my head again.

 

[gordonra]

Can you email me some photos?

Rich

 

[pcmenten]

Damper Doctor

 

[gordonra]

Correction to my previous post..... My memory isn't what it used to be.

I've emailed you a photo of my original balancer and pulley setup.

It looks like there are a total of three pulleys, but the outter two are the ones that come off by removing the four screws.

Rich

 

[V6 JOSE]

Hi John,

You didn't lose any money. The outer groove will come off when you take off the four bolts that hold it to the hub. The pulley is seperate from the crank hub that the pulleys bolt to. All you now need to do, is bolt the inner pulley to the hub and you are home free. Don't forget to put the four bolts back in, because they are what keep the pulley from spinning on yhe hub. The hub on ly had a sm all pin to index the pulley, and if you don't put the four bolts back, the pulley can spin on the hub, taking out the indexing pin and moving the timing marks.

Jose

So, I just wasted $50 then. I'm just going to have to lay out all these parts and have someone take a look. There was a smaller part inside the pulley, kind of a metal disk with a hole in the middle and four bolt holes. Somehow, I don't think that's what you mean though. Maybe it was the crank pulley that was cracked and I'm just sitting on my head again.

 

[SoCalpine]

I must have the wrong part again since there is nothing to unbolt. I'll have to photograph what I have, though the pic Rich sent me of his motor looks like the pulley I have which looks nothing like the Capri one.

I'm supposed to get my valve covers back tomorrow so I'll throw up some pics of them too.

Maybe I'll just throw them all in a box and bring it to the barbeque and y'all can tell me what's a part and what's a paperweight.

 

[SoCalpine]

Is this the right part?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200528977614?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[MikeH]

I believe that those are the additional pullies that would bolt on with the crank pulley to drive accessories. The crank pulley is flatter with timing marks on it and a small hole tha aligns to a pin on the part that actually bolts to the crank.

 

[altered]

That one is the part that comes off. I tried to attach pics of the correct pulley but it won't work for some reason. PM me with your email address and I'll send you the pics.

Trevor.

 

[SoCalpine]

I'm pretty sure my original Capri pulley was the right part and the Ranger one will be too big and the ones on fleabay right now are useless to me as well. I just have to track one down like the one I have with the hairline crack along with the timing pointer.

 

[kmathis]

John, bring both of the pulleys that you have over on Sunday, so we can make a comparison, to mine and a couple of other V6s that will be there. We'll figure it out.

 

[SoCalpine]

I'll bring the pulleys for sure. I just got the posters back from print shop today and they look sweeet! Maybe we can get Jose to sign a few!

 

[kmathis]

Sounds, good.

I was just on Car-Part.com and there are a few salvage yards that have the crank hub if we need one.

 

[SoCalpine]

In case you're following the crank pulley saga:

It was determined after consultation with Jose and others that the correct course of action for me is to have the Ranger pulley (2 groove) cut down to match the Capri pulley (single)

The diameter of the Ranger pulley is slightly larger but the extra flow to the water pump will be a benefit outweighing any loss of power.