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Naomi and some paint

jdoclogan

jdoclogan

Platinum Level Sponsor
I'm making progress on Naomi. I've got the numbers matching engine at the shop and looking forward to Gibson Performance's completion of machine work.
Naomi fully prepped and in my paint booth. Now if I can figure out which way to point the spray gun.

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Hood painted

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Final prep on primer - painting tomorrow
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Wow. You are a brave man. High glossy black is not the most easiest to paint...

P.S. Didn't know that you have a paint shop too :rolleyes:
 
Actually, black paint isn't any harder to paint than any other color. The only issue is that your bodywork
has to be really good if not perfect as the black paint makes everything highly visible.
 
You are all right. Black with a deep clear look isn't easy. I'm making about 50 cents an hour for the amount of work put into the straight flat body work, absolutely perfect sanding techniques and exact paint mixtures with quality material. To provide guidance and improve my spraying technique the hood was done three times (I lost count at the number of hours). All -in-all the pleasure comes in the preparation as that is what determines the outcome. There have been many excellent painters at car shows before me that have provided the vision. May I stay the course and achieve at least 95% of their impeccable deep black paint job's attributes. It doesn't get much better than chrome against Code 1/Embassy black with red leather interior.
 
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Actually, John Prittie had most things well done. Particularly the interior. The numbers matching engine (that needed a crack repair) came with the car and had been replaced with a well used 1725. The paint job was new, but, it wasn't of the best quality. Compared to my original Promotional Harrington Le Mans this HLM has been less involved. Still, when I develop a high end vision its hard for me not to put in the time to reach that vision.
 
bernd_st said:
I wonder how your machine shop fixes the cracked original block...
Click to expand...

Sent to an "ol timer" block repair man. He used a heating/brazing process after doing a grinding prep. It was in the blocks lower left side coolant passageway.
 
Typical "no a antifreeze failure"on Rootes blocks. Repair is really an art. Hope it will be water tight. I had a broken off Tiger Top loader lower cast leg welded and repaired earlier. It was not an easy job at all, but came out nicely. Also done by an "Oldtimer" repair man. But a cracked block still represents a higher challenge...
 
My "ol timer" has many successful repairs over many years and is the only go-to guy in Washington State.

Taking a little break after final prep for body and under hood base/clear coat application. Waiting a bit for the temperature to arrive at my optimum 70F degrees. Checked booth for any residual dust and everything is lining up. I've cybernetic the paint strokes and sequence so many times it is locked into muscle memory. The last bit is why I like sanding prep. One really gets to know the crooks and crannies with a meticulous sanding process.
 
I don't apply the finish top coat over the primer coat and say it's done. The leveling primer (activated) is too soft & porous to get all of the micro-waves blocked out. I apply 2 medium top coats (I use strictly activated, single stage for solid colors) as a primer coat and I block that out, and that will get the micro-waves out. And then apply 2 more medium coats. Any more wet coats and the solvent-pop might appear....Then I call it done.
Jan
 
Ask me, "So you like to do extra sanding work Jerry?" Yup, I've always done it and can't get away from the habit. I could leave the black base as is with two coats and do a color sand buff. But, I want to do the clear to get a little more depth. I typically don't like the modern clear coat process. It is like a plastic look instead of an original look. That's why I didn't do clear on the white promotional HLM.

Just finished the base coat spray. I will do the clear in a couple hours.

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I will monitor the curing process. I'm not a production shop so curing is dependent on natural temperatures/humidity (we are highs in the 70s and lows in the 40s). Probably one or two weeks.
 
Color sand and buffing 80% complete.

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This is an 85% quality I'm going to do several adjustments to achieve 90%.
 

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Jeeey is this wet sanding it? What grade are you at?
I can see it still has the sanding/ swirls.. I guess when you get to the final grades and the polish rounds it will get to the deep and glassy finish
 
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