No leaks and good bleeding but still had weak breaks. I had the drums checked out by another shop and they were out of round. Re-installed the drums and the braking was better but really not effective, I certainly wasn't able to lock the brakes up, however, another forum member related that even after a full brake overhaul he was still not able to lock up his stock brakes.
I've been adjusting the rear brakes to the point I felt there was slight drag even without the brakes applied. Then I remembered a post a forum member made about getting his brakes to work effectively by adjusting the rear brake shoes to drag to the point he thought they would heat up, but they never did.
I've been turning the drum by hand, feeling for drag, then readjusting. On both drums there has been a part during turning the drum where it spins free but there is drag during the rest of the turn. I have stopped adjusting when I thought the part where it dragged was dragging hard enough. But, like I said, breaking has not been that great.
Well, thinking of the members post I kept adjusting till the 'free spinning zone' during the drum turn was eliminated to the point that there was a slight drag during the entire spin, not just a portion. Now, when turning the drums by hand there is a constant drag, not allot, through the the entire turn.
This has made a big difference in the braking, they are much more effective now. I don't know if having a bit of drag on the drums (or how much is too much) at all times is good or not, unlike the front rotors that spin freely, but it did do the job.