Re-installing the front suspension

[Alpine 1789]

Almost a year and a half after I started, I am finally to the point where I have the time to put my rebuilt front suspension on my SV. Good thing too, as the car needs to be inspected in June and I doubt the current bushings will pass again. I have been reading up on all previous discussions and making notes, so hopefully I won't have too many questions. However, something in the WSM has me scratching my head right off the bat and I don't think I have ever seen this discussed here before. Under Removing and Refitting Front Suspension (Section F, pages 11-12), it says:

When fitting a replacement crossmember cut off the engine tie rod bracket from the rear edge of the crossmember adjacent to the rear end of the right-hand bottom fulcrum pin, the flexible hose support bracket must not be confused with the tie-rod bracket; paint the bare metal.

Huh?

 

[Tom H]

Jim, I removed and replaced my crossmember 10 yrs ago and I do not remember reading this at the time. Note that it says "when using a replacement crossmember..." I assume this refers to using a replacement from the factory. My assumption is that a replacement from the factory has some extra bracket on it - for some other potential application - and that this extra bracket needs to be removed if it is used on a RHD Alpine.

I see you note that you have read many previous posts on the subject. Good idea. The one thing I remember most is that the crossmember does not go straight up. It goes up and then (I think) back and then up and (maybe) forward and up. Several good suggestions, including mine, have been posted.

God luck,

Tom

 

[Alpine 1789]

Thanks, Tom. I am sure you are correct. The guys who wrote the WSM would never have dreamed of all of the things we'd be doing today to keep their cars on the road. Anything other than a factory replacement probably never even occurred to them. The real work begins tomorrow. Stay tuned...

 

[tom o]

I just put my front cross member in a couple of weeks ago. I had the engine ,clutch, and transmission bolted to the cross member and the car as high on jack stand as i could get it. I out the whole works on my floor jack and jacked the whole thing straight up into the body. I had to remove the carbs for clearance. Four bolts in the front and eight in the back and I was done. It took me about an hour and I was alone.
Tom o

 

[Alpine 1789]

Thanks, Tom. I have the car on the stands right now, but didn't put it too high, thinking it might be easier when it came time to raise the suspension up. I don't think it will need it too high, since I am swapping the front hubs over and taking them off first, but, now that I think of it, a little higher will probably be a good thing.

How did you support your engine? I was just assuming I'd put a floor jack under it, but I am open to other ideas.

 

[tom o]

I have a older 2ton sears floor jack. It is very heavy duty. I also had a short piece of 2x10 on top of the jack, to get it high enough. It just balanced on the jack. I was a little worried, but it was no problem. I did not have the a frames on the cross member. That might make a difference.
Tom o

 

[Tom H]

Hey Tom O, You say you went straight up with the engine and crossmember. I assume you did not have the A-Frames and axles already installed, right?

That's also a question for Jim. When I rebuilt my front end I rebuilt it completely while off the car, leaving only the wheels and sway bar off before re-installing it on the car. I am pretty sure it was the upper A-Frames that required me to move it in multiple directions upon installation. But I think that was the easiest way to re-assemble the front end. I can imagine that if I was installing the engine, tranny, and crossmember in one step, I would NOT assemble the A Frames to the crossmember beforehand.

And I found it a lot easier to install the sway bar with the crossmember on the car.

Edit - Oh, I see Tom O answered my question while I was posting

Tom H

 

[Alpine 1789]

The A arms and stub axles are currently attached, althought just lightly - I decided not to torque anything down until I had it back on the car.

So, here is my second question: the WSM says to drain the radiator and remove the hoses. Why? Don't I just want to use a jack to keep the engine in about the same place? Why is it necessary to drain the rad?

 

[Tom H]

Probably not totally "necessary". But maybe wise as it allows you more freedom in moving the engine around a bit as you move the crossmember into position. The point is to remove the hoses for more flexibility. And it is wise then to drain the radiator beforehand because without the hoses in place the radiator tends to make a mess

I think you may find it necessary to tip the crossmember a bit on its way up, requireing a bit of extra clearance under the engine. YOu may gain enough extra clearance by removing the engine mounts, but maybe removing the hoses is simpler.

Tom H

 

[Alpine 1789]

Will do. It isn't that big a job, just an extra hassle. The front brakes and hubs are off. The real work begins tomorrow.

 

[Tom H]

Jim, what kind of A-frame pivot bushings are you using? If using the original type, with metalistic bonded rubber, you do not tighten them until the car weight is fully on the axles.

Tom

 

[Alpine 1789]

They are the original type, which is why I didn't tighten them. And, I just figured it made sense not to tighten anything else yet, either, just in case.

BTW: I had a pair of S3 springs 'in stock' - God knows where I got them - and decided to give them a try. It will be interesting to see how noticeable the difference is.

 

[DanR]

Jim, Don't forget the spacers that go between the frame and the crossmember like I did

 

[Alpine 1789]

Thanks, Dan. I promise not to.

Next question: Is there a better way to remove the track rods from the steering arms than to loosen the nuts, leave them on the top of the bolt and then hit the nut with a hammer until it comes loose? I am afraid I don't have Churchill tool No. RG.190.

 

[Bill Blue]

Thanks, Dan. I promise not to.

Next question: Is there a better way to remove the track rods from the steering arms than to loosen the nuts, leave them on the top of the bolt and then hit the nut with a hammer until it comes loose? I am afraid I don't have Churchill tool No. RG.190.

Jim, can't answer your question, but I had outstanding results using a pneumatic hammer on the crosstube ends.

Bill

 

[DanR]

I always hold a heavy hammer on one side of the joint and strike the other side hard with another heavy hammer. Do not drive or hammer on the nut because of the potential of destroying the threads.

A couple of licks usually breaks it loose !

 

[Alpine 1789]

Thanks, Dan. I'll try your method first. Bill: which are the crosstube ends?

 

[Bill Blue]

Thanks, Dan. I'll try your method first. Bill: which are the crosstube ends?

The ones on the rod behind the engine. Buggers to get to. Impossible to get a good swing at them, even with the engine out.

Bill

 

[DanR]

I just did what I said in previous post to my BW35 Conversion Car.

Like Bill said it is abugger. But, can be done!

There are some tools available also that have a"forK" that can be driven between the arm and the tie rod end. The "Forks" come with different distances between the forks for the different size tie rod end,.

I have one that is 5/8" and one that is about 3/4". They are very handy for tight areas like the cross over.

 

[Alpine 1789]

They were still resistant to Dan's method, so I tried a variation on Bill's. I welded up one end of an old lug nut (same thread as the track rod end), ground it flat and then screwed that down on to the 'bolt'. I then tried my air hammer on it. No success. I don't know if it is due to my Harbor Freight air hammer or just that tight. I figured at this point no harm in trying to hit the nut with a hammer, but the driver's side still held. I moved over to the passenger and that one came loose with a couple of blows.

I am not sure what to try next, but hit it with some PB Blaster before letting it it sit for the night. I won't be able to get back to it until tomorrow evening, so there is lots of time for you suggestions!

Thanks.