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Radiator and fan problem

bluoval

Donation Time
heat shield

David use any material that will hold up under the conditions you drive in. Alum Is O.k. for the shield as to motor mount shims. steel would be better.. I used steel fender washers and or shims that were slotted , and just backed out the bolts and slid them in place,so I would not have to line up the mounts., hold in the shims, and start a bolt at the same time. Good luck Earl bluoval
 

navyeod

Donation Time
fan

I am going to try that 14 inch flex fan Michael recommended. I am sure going to need a lift to get to these engine mounts. I jacked that car up this morning as high as I could get it with my floor jack and put some 5 ton stands under it. Still a pain to get to the mounts. I will have to jack up the engine over a half inch to clear. Michael where did you get that alternator bracket. Much better than my jury rigged one. Thanks to all. david;)
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Michael where did you get that alternator bracket. Much better than my jury rigged one. Thanks to all. david;)


David, the bracket came with the car, however i think i have instructuons of how to make the same, also there is a company in the USA that sells Tiger parts that supplies one, pricey but nice.. that said.. mine looks a little over engineered.
 

navyeod

Donation Time
On the road again

Got the Griffin radiator in and I installed the nylon Flex fan from Summit Michael mentioned in his previous post. I put my old modified water pump back in with a shortened shaft by around 7/16 inch. Now have over an inch clearance from the radiator. On my first trial run had left one of the hoses loose. Took care of that. On my next trial run left the recovery tank cap loose and lost some water from that. After getting all that squared away ran it with 94 degree temp outside. It ran hotter than the with derali fan that had been shortened to 14 inches and the Fluidyne radiator. Around 210 degrees. Never got it over 50mph. I will try her on the interstate tomorrow now that I know it is leak proof. Was nice to be rolling again as I was going thru TIGER withdrawal.
 

George Coleman

Gold Level Sponsor
:cool:Make sure that you do not have to much antifreeze in the system. You need to run no more than 40% or less, I have had this problem before:eek::eek: Remember Fords Like 210F and on a hot day it is not uncommon, make sure you have the right cap as well13 to 15 pounds is best
 

navyeod

Donation Time
advice

Made sure the cooling system was leak proof and also filled with fluid. Used one gallon of Antifreeze. Temp was 91 degrees when I let the Tiger loose on the interstate today. Guage temp stayed around 210-215 at 65 to 80mph, got off the interstate and the temp climbed to 250. Stopped to get some gas and went home, a 5 mile trip with 3 red lights. When not stopped running around 40mph Temps came down to around 225 but climbed back to 250 at an idle. These temps seem too high? Engine runs fine throughout and no boil over. Thanks so much for all your help. david: confused:
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi David,

Have you checked to see if maybe your temp gage is reading correctly? 250 degreees would empty the radiator in no time, so if it isn´t losing water, it may be that the temp gage is off. I would take it to a radiator shop and have them check it with a laser gun temp gage.

Jose


Made sure the cooling system was leak proof and also filled with fluid. Used one gallon of Antifreeze. Temp was 91 degrees when I let the Tiger loose on the interstate today. Guage temp stayed around 210-215 at 65 to 80mph, got off the interstate and the temp climbed to 250. Stopped to get some gas and went home, a 5 mile trip with 3 red lights. When not stopped running around 40mph Temps came down to around 225 but climbed back to 250 at an idle. These temps seem too high? Engine runs fine throughout and no boil over. Thanks so much for all your help. david: confused:
 

mikephillips

Donation Time
I'd agree with Jose. When you pop the hood, if it's actually running that hot,
you'd be able to tell something wasn't right from the heat rolling off it. It would be noticeably too hot.
 

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
Looking through this thread, I don't see that you replaced the thermostat, I run a 180 degree failsafe in my '65 289 Mustang. Also, if you have a heater you might want to pull a heater hose and force coolant through it to purge any air that it may have trapped. All I have is factory gauge, which doesn't show temperature, just C and H. At idle it will creep up and when when first started after a short shut down the gauge will nearly peg from heat sync, but will drop back down shorly after starting it. Also National Parts Depot lists a water pump for a 260 in a Mustang. Don't know if that will do you any good, just though I'd pass it along.

And as an after thought, are you using anything like Water Wetter or similar product? Check the timing, too. To much advance will make you run hot.
 

navyeod

Donation Time
thermostat

Mike I have suffered with the overheat, or seemingly overheat problem since I have owned the car, 4 years now. After replacing the radiator, fan, water pump when I got it. I was convinced The thermostat must be the problem. I put two different thermostats in it and finally just left it out. Running cool did not seem to be a problem. It has NO thermostat in it now. I have no heater. Just run the two hoses from the water pump to where they were connected before. I cannot conceive of it being anything but the gauge. I have zero coolant loss after the run this morning. I am probably the weakest wrench on this site, but have restored several cars and worked on them quite a bit, the temps shown on the gauge and the way the engine runs don't jive. I am going to take it to a buddy of mine's tire shop who has a laser temp gauge and see how the temp works out. I used a meat thermometer to see if it was my gauge 4 years ago and it seemed to check out. But I cannot think of another thing to do. I flushed the engine out before I installed all the latest stuff. Have a rust trap on my upper hose which I cleaned out before I trialed it. Pump does not squeal or leak. Cant take this beast out on a long trip until I solve this. Thanks for all you guys help and thoughts. And BTW Mike, I thought I need to add the history on the thermostat when I wrote the last post. Good observation. david
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi David,

You really should have a thermostat in it. Without a thermostat to restrict the flow a bit, the water will circulate too quickly through the engine and radiator, to get a chance to cool properly. You can use a 160 degree thermostat if you wish, but the thermostat serves a second important purpose too.

Jose
 

George Coleman

Gold Level Sponsor
The thermostat is important if you run an alum. rad. I put a mechanical temp gauge under the dash of my Tiger and the factory unit is also in use. There is about a 10 degree diff. between the two, I had a heating problem last month when I had cleaned the cooling system out, I used to much antifreeze when I cut back to less than 40% the problem went away, I think that if you are not boiling over then the problem seems to be the temp gauge. :cool:
 

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
I was having a similar issue on an MGB and was running with out the thermostat. I was told the same thing that the water would move through the block too quickly to effectively cool. I was also told without the thermostat the sensor was reading head temp, not water temp. If I wanted to run without the thermostat I was told to either run a restictor or remove the disk from a thermostat. If you are not using a heater core and your choke doesn't use the heater hose for temperature, or it's manual, why not just clamp plugs over the heater hose outlets on the pump?
 

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
The thermostat is important if you run an alum. rad. I put a mechanical temp gauge under the dash of my Tiger and the factory unit is also in use. There is about a 10 degree diff. between the two, I had a heating problem last month when I had cleaned the cooling system out, I used to much antifreeze when I cut back to less than 40% the problem went away, I think that if you are not boiling over then the problem seems to be the temp gauge. :cool:

Not that Sunbeams would be out in the winter but you can also get gelling if too much antifreeze is used.This will almost be like a frozen rad or hose symptom
 

Stephen

Silver Level Sponsor
This may not solve the problem but using the right anti freeze is important. Newer cars run hotter and I am told the propylene anti freeze is not good for old cars. I start with good old H2O and check temp. them use right type anti freeze, Remember it changes the freezing point as well as the boiling point of water as George stated he lowered the % of his mix
 

navyeod

Donation Time
thermostat

Pulled the Thermostat housing off and I had forgotten I had reinstalled a Thermostat, I guess when I was going thru all this heating problem a couple of years ago. It had a 160 degree thermostat in it. Beat goes on. :):):)
 

navyeod

Donation Time
hoses

Noticed the two small outlets from the water pump. The one toward the right side of the engine goes via a hose to the thermostat housing and the lower one or the one toward the left goes to a L fitting via a hose to the engine head right by the distributor. This engine was set up when I got it and really havent thought too much about those two small hoses and where they were going or what they were doing with no heater core. Does this sound right. Thanks much you guys. "Hot in Alabama" 94 today.
 

navyeod

Donation Time
problem solved???

Outside temp today was 87 when I let the Tiger out of the cage and took it on the interstate. Temp gauge seemed to act as it should. It stayed around 200 going 30-50 got up to 205 on the interstate at speeds up to 75. Got off the interstate and it stayed around 205 all the way home. Even at idle when I got home it stayed around 205. I wanted to jump up and down in my driveway. Earlier this week when I took the thermostat housing off to check if I had a thermostat in it I noticed one of the small output hoses from the Water pump was kinked a bit by the oil stick housing. That hose went into the engine right by the temp sensor for the temp gauge. It was not completely blocked but restricted by about 50 percent I would guess. I am thinking that this would have sped up the water flow by the sensor creating turbulence or even air giving the wild temps I was seeing. There would be times the temp would go up and down without any relation to what the car was doing. I sure hope that is the case and this Cat will keep purring. I hope all this bandwidth helps others. Thanks for all the great input. Especially Michael for the info on the fan, George the info on the radiator and water pump, and Duke for the very helpful pics on the water pump and clearance measurements. david
 
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