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X frame repair sections.

Matthew.Rogerson

Silver Level Sponsor
I’m trying to find repair section for both arms of the x frame on a series v. Parts numbers are noted as 0022/23 and 0079/80 respectively. Does anyone have these for sale or know of anyone currently manufacturing them? Poor photo of the purple unicorn attached.
 

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DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Matthew, Have you contacted or attempted to contact the vendor (UK) ?

I did not know of them.

Here is a picture of an X-frame I removed from a salvaged SIV Alpine. I had it chemically dipped then coated it with POR 15.

Plans are to have some replacements made for another Alpine I have that needs an X-frame. Perhaps make them available to the Sunbeam World (Alpine/Tiger owners).

It is a very slow process getting stuff like this accomplished. The X-Frame is presently sitting in the CenterLine Engineering Shop for drawings, then Laser Cut and bending.

UPDATE: I think I mistook what you were referring to. If it is "CUT OUTS" and not the "X-Frame" sections, please excuse me.

I finally found the particular parts by the numbers you show (#0022/23) I purchased a couple of these from Curt at Classic Sunbeam a couple years ago.
 

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  • The Green1 X-Frame rust repair          20210810_184245.jpg
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DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
In the pictures I posted above: The X-Frame in our Sunbeams have a tendency to rust out because there is basically no place for draining water or foreign matter. As a result the residue collects and holds/retaining moisture. Slowly, but surely rust forms and our Sunbeams frame becomes weakened. Just take a good look at a couple of the PIC's above for proof!!

I have one Alpine that I am doing extensive repairs to the X-Frame (pictured above) and another that surely needs the same. I am becoming weary of this type of repair. Too many of our Sunbeams wind up in the scrap yard just because of this type of rust damage.

I do not know of any fabricator making replacement components for this sort of repair. Anyone have a suggestion as to a source?
 

Matthew.Rogerson

Silver Level Sponsor
Hi there,
Thank you for the photos unfortunately they look all too familiar. I was thinking that one could have each arm of the x individually fabricated, slipped over top of the existing rotten arm and then welded into place. I am a little nervous about removing the entire unit. Keeping in mind my goal is to drive this not to win any best in shows!
 

Scotty

Silver Level Sponsor
Matthew, Have you contacted or attempted to contact the vendor (UK) ?

I did not know of them.

Here is a picture of an X-frame I removed from a salvaged SIV Alpine. I had it chemically dipped then coated it with POR 15.

Plans are to have some replacements made for another Alpine I have that needs an X-frame. Perhaps make them available to the Sunbeam World (Alpine/Tiger owners).

It is a very slow process getting stuff like this accomplished. The X-Frame is presently sitting in the CenterLine Engineering Shop for drawings, then Laser Cut and bending.

UPDATE: I think I mistook what you were referring to. If it is "CUT OUTS" and not the "X-Frame" sections, please excuse me.

I finally found the particular parts by the numbers you show (#0022/23) I purchased a couple of these from Curt at Classic Sunbeam a couple years ago.

Out of curiosity, what do your letters mean?
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Hi there,
Thank you for the photos unfortunately they look all too familiar. I was thinking that one could have each arm of the x individually fabricated, slipped over top of the existing rotten arm and then welded into place. I am a little nervous about removing the entire unit. Keeping in mind my goal is to drive this not to win any best in shows!

Matthew, the slip over/ overlapping type is what I planned.

A careful examination of the X-Frame will show each of the arms are put together in two pieces overlapped and welded together.

The X-Frame pictured with the Black POR15 was salvaged from an Alpine that was in my opinion not economically feasible for restoration.

I intend to drill out the welds and separate the pieces, have drawings made, then laser cut pieces for replacement.

Don't know if I will live long enough to get it done.

Still hope to get'r done!

Anyone interested in possible purchasing components pleas let me know.

KEEP'EM-ON-THE-ROAD
 

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
I was somehow under the impression that most of the vendor are reseller's buying from Radford panel and selling on. Although I completely understand that buying new saves the ___ton of drilling and deconstructing a body. Tiger ones are especially prone and the exhaust pass thru's are gravel collectors.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
slipped over top of the existing rotten arm and then welded into place. I am a little nervous about removing the entire unit. Keeping in mind my goal is to drive this not to win any best in shows!
If you are planning on that method you would want to cut all the rusty metal out and some extra depth to ensure no rust is left.. Heavily corrosion treat the remaining metal...

Also when repairing the sills or X frame on a sunbeam you want to brace across the door openings to ensure you dont weld in new metal with the car sagging.

Does the car have a tight fit at the top of the door to B post vs the back lower corner of the door?
 

Tim R

Silver Level Sponsor
As Dan R says above draining is really important.We go to great lengths to ensure that the bodies of our Alpines can drain properly. they originally came with no drain holes. Water got out by rusting out! Do what these videos on The Sunbeam Alpine Channel show and your Alpine will last a lot longer.
Tim R



 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Michael, I have an Alpine that was supposed to be rust free. A prior owner, before the owner I purchased it from made some thin pieces of metal bent in similar shape to the "original" frame and put a few (very few) spot welds in an attempt to hide the rust.

I have previously posted pictures of the Alpine (the Green1). The pictures I posted above are a few that show the extent of damage from the rust and where I cut portions of the "bottoms" of the frame away leaving all good metal. I built braces that hold the frame/body rigid.

1st PIC Cover up
2nd PIC Uncovering the attempt to hide
3rd PIC The area of the frame most susceptable to damage - NOT DRAIN HOLES
4th PIC Portions of the "X" Braces I made to hold the Body/FThe Green1 cover up of rusty area   20210810_184132.jpg The Green1 Rust revealed     20210810_184122.jpg The Green1 X-Frame rust repair          20210810_190235.jpg The Green1 with rigid braces        20210810_185855.jpg
 

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
I knew a guy that took his car to the desert after it got sunk. He shot some with a firearm. You see Herbie is the only VW bug that floats. In addition there's no drain holes in the pan or added Karmann coach works mods.

You can start with the C post on the hard top as to the didn't think it through construction process. Or the in period service life of a car. Panels that can be effected by condensation should get a drain holes don't use your gun ;)
 

Barry

Platinum Level Sponsor
There is a BIG difference between restoration and repair. Restoration means removing all of the "rotten" metal and replacing it with duplicates of the factory original sheet metal pieces. If all you want to do is repair the cruciform structure by putting new metal over the old rusted metal, you can make all the necessary pieces with some 18 gauge sheet metal and a 36" sheet metal brake. Some welding skill is needed, but keep in mind that the Series Alpine unibody was stick welded. Not wire welded or MIG welded or TIG welded, but plain old fashion stick welded.

Not advocating for either repair or restoration; they both have their place depending on the owner's priorities.

I totally agree with the previous comments about drainage issues with the Series Alpine design.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Here are some pictures of an X-frame I removed from an Alpine that was disassembled by a PO before I become the owner. I salvaged many parts form a very rusty body.

The X-FRame was in great condition comapred to the rest of the Alpine.

In these PIC's you can see where I drilled out portions of the welds inorder to seperate the pieces. Now that they are seperated my Draftsman/Engineer/Laser Buddy is to make me some replacement panels. If it works as planned the replacement panels should be near perfect to the original as possible - no rust :)

I am curious to learn if anyone would be interested in some of these panels. I am at present only having the front arms done because they are the most prone to rusting very badly.

Please consider any future interest because as you know the more produced the cheaper toe cost.

As always I am open to suggestions, recommendations and opinions.

If this works out to a demand for the panels I will post in the FOR SALE Section,


2022-12-05 12.16.52.jpg 2022-12-05 12.17.05.jpg 2022-12-05 12.17.15.jpg 2022-12-05 12.17.25.jpg 2022-12-05 12.17.39.jpg
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Let me explain what is in the PIC's if I can.... The first two are the two halfs laying together similar to what they looked liked before I drilled out the welds. The welds were not completely removed so I had to take a chiesel and a big hammer to break the leftover welds. I did try to straighten out the metal where I had bent it.

The 3rd PIC shows one side of the x-frame laying over to show the inside.

Next pictures depict a side view, both the insides and the outsides of the panels.

Plans are to produce my panels as close as the originals as posible.

My Draftsman/Engineer/Laser Buddy has the pieces and is to make drawings then the plans are to fabricate some of them.

It has been a time consuming project just getting the X-frame ready for the drawings.

As soon as I get a quote on the cost I plan to POST on the Forum. I'm sure there will be others interested, the more the merrier which means less cost for all.

If there is a possibility you are interested please let me know

Stay Tuned! Merry Christmas,


DanR
 
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