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which brand/model aluminum radiator is best to get?

getsmartguy

Silver Level Sponsor
The weather just keeps getting hotter every summer here in Sacramento Ca- and I’m reading a lot about these aluminum radiators, but there a lot of models ranging from $300-$1200. Any advice on which brand and model is best? And what size fans would you recommend, and 1 or two?. And any brands or sellers to avoid? Many thanks, gents!

I have a 67 alpine w 1720 cc engine. Looking on eBay I see two core and three core options. I want max protection from overheating. I currently have original radiator with a 4th core added and a 10” fan, but it still gets dangerously hot on days when it’s 85-95 here.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Firstly, while aluminium is a better conductor than steel its main advantage is lighter weight. Aluminium radiators are comon now as they are cheaper to make. A better radiator would be to go to a copper core.

Also you say the car is getting dangerously hot... What are the symptoms? Is it boiling and spitting water?

How accurate is your temp gauge?
What thermostat are you running?
What mix of antifreeze do you run?
What radiator cap are you running and is the spring deep enough?
Do you know the condition of the cooling passages in the head?
Have you flushed the block?
Have you looked at adding a return system on the radiator?
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
GSG,

You don't mention the driving conditions when you are experiencing what you consider too hot for your expectations.

If your radiator and system are clean and has recently been re-cored, then that's not your probable issue.

Just for curiosity, are you still running the Z-S CD150's or a different carburetor setup? Is the ignition original or an electronic aftermarket set?

If your car has no issue of overheating driving at speed on the open road, but only in stop and go traffic around town, the most likely cause is a lack of cooling airflow at low speeds. The same issue as Tigers and most of the same fixes are applicable to Alpines as well.

Some definitive testing on cooling airflow posted at the TEAE website:


As Michael stated if you are still using the original gauges, do you know if the the temp gauge is reading correctly? If the "gauge voltage stabilizer" is missing or the internal contacts are stuck closed, then the temp gauge will read higher than it should indicate.

There is a small probability that an engine tuning issue could be at work. Retarded timing and lean fuel conditions can lead to higher operating temps.

Lastly, Michael's question about if the block has been flushed is pertinent but may not be enough to solve the issue. 1725 engines have a known issue of having "gunk" deposit in the rear of the block around the number four cylinder which restricts coolant flow. At one time, there were some water pumps which had not been assembled with correct impeller to housing clearances giving reduced coolant flow to the engine.


Please supply more data and someone will probably help with a more specific answer.

Hope this helps,
 
Last edited:

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
What does your radiator consist of now? Copper? How many tubes? Two or three? How many fins per inch (FPI)? If stock it is most likely 9 FPI.

I highly recommend a three tube 16 or 17FPI all copper for the best cooling capacity in our Alpines. The tubes will disperse the coolant but the fins dissipate the heat.
 

getsmartguy

Silver Level Sponsor
GSG,

You don't mention the driving conditions when you are experiencing, what you consider too hot for your expectations.

If your radiator and system are clean and has recently been re-cored, then that's not your probable issue.

Just for curiosity, are you still running the Z-S CD150's or a different carburetor setup? Is the ignition original or an electronic aftermarket set?

If your car has no issue of overheating driving at speed on the open road, but only in stop and go traffic around town, the most likely cause is a lack of cooling airflow at low speeds. The same issue as Tigers and most of the same fixes are applicable to Alpines as well.

Some definitive testing on cooling airflow posted at the TEAE website:


As Michael stated if you are still using the original gauges, do you know if the the temp gauge is reading correctly? If the "gauge voltage stabilizer" is missing or the internal contacts are stuck closed, then the temp gauge will read higher than it should indicate.

There is a small probability that an engine tuning issue could be at work. Retarded timing and lean fuel conditions can lead to higher operating temps.

Lastly, Michael's question about if the block has been flushed is pertinent but may not be enough to solve the issue. 1725 engines have a known issue of having "gunk" deposit in the rear of the block around the number four cylinder which restricts coolant flow. At one time, there were some water pumps which had not been assembled with correct impeller to housing clearances giving reduced coolant flow to the engine.


Please supply more data and someone will probably help with a more specific answer.

Hope this helps,
I will
 

getsmartguy

Silver Level Sponsor
I will check all these items and get back to you both with more data, thanks for a comprehensive checklist.
 

getsmartguy

Silver Level Sponsor
also too hot conditions are only in summertime when it’s over 85, most days in Sacramento run 95 -105 in summer. even then it does not overheat on freeways, but 90% of my driving ends up being through traffic and street driving - that’s where overheating can occur.
 

Jay Laifman

Donation Time
FWIW, when I rebuilt my engine the second time, and went with the Holbay head, the cooling changed dramatically. I used to have a bit of heat related problems before. I have never since. I presume the block was boiled out fully both times. The radiator stayed the same. So I don't know if the Holbay head has something else going on. But the difference is remarkable. I even removed the big flex fan I was using before and went back to stock.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
When I rebuilt the 1725 (original) for my Blue Boy, I paid special attention to the inside of the block. The story behind my actions was to remove "all" casting residue from inside. It took me awhile but it was a plesant surprise to finnaly get it clean. Lots of foreign matter was remoced as I suspected. The engine was never over heated again.

1st step in my opinion is to clean the inside of the engine.
 
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