• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Which 2.8 alternator?

SIVAllan

Gold Level Sponsor
Tom,

Let me see if I understand you correctly :)

To hook into Series I factory wiring and remove the old generator voltage regulator:

1--generator yellow wire (regulator terminal D) - hook to alternator Terminal 1 and unhook other end from regulator terminal D.

Yellow wire has 2 terminal D connections so hook the D ends of the yellow wire together.

2--generator yellow/green wire (regulator terminal F) - hook to alternator Battery pole.

Disconnect the other end of yellow/green from the regulator box F.

3--three additional wires need to be disconnected from the regulator box and all hooked together:

The 3 wires are A; A1; and F.

Alternator terminal 2 - hook to alternator battery terminal

Remove regulator box from firewall.

The alternator terminals use a wiring plug.

Wiring plug Terminal 1 is a small white wire. Wiring plug Terminal 2 is a fat red wire.

This arrangement essentially keeps the factory wiring and wiring chart.
 
Last edited:

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Allen, Yep, that's it. Myself I would like to keep the old regulator in place, but I am not sure enough about what even one connection to it might be a problem.

I am guessing that the two yellow wires are already connected to each other into a single spade connector at Terminal D. Or do you need to actually connect them to each other? in either case be sure to insulate the ends so they cannot touch the chassis.

Same thing with the 3 wires from A, A1, and F. Make sure they are solidly connected, and insulated so as to not make contact with the chassis.

And yes, you could then "white out" the regulator on the wiring drawing but draw a connection across the points where the 3 wires at A, A1, and F set. Then relabel the Gen as Alt, and rename the terminals as Batt,and Term 1, and Add Term 2 with a wire going from Term 2 to Batt.

That would then be a good wiring diagram of what you have. Nice!

Tom
 

gdive

Donation Time
aftermarket option

I used a small high output alternator to replace the GM one wire one I put in a long time ago. I have around 24-25A at idle which I love since it runs the fans and high spark Mallory ignition and electric brake booster. Plus it is much smaller than the GM one and easier to fit. I can send vendor info if anyone is interested.
 

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
Re alternator
I had no problems with the 70 amp Delco.
Ran one in the 62 for years when it was a V6. Used it when went to the 302.
The Lister has a 351 and uses the same alternator. Close fit but still enough room. Of course both cars have eliminated the stock regulator. Both cars have Pete's performance wring kits
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Electric Brake Booster....?

How does it work? Electrically sure but, what connections? Part Number? Source?

DanR
 

gdive

Donation Time
electric power brakes

I did some custom work but got a system from abspowerbrake.com working. One mistake I made was using DOT 5 fluid....will never do that again! DOT 5 ate up the master and got some mold growing in it after sitting still for several months. Anyway, am happy with the performance since I have minimal vacuum at idle and put disc on the rear.
 
Top