If anyone here has Weber experience or now where to point me online - please do. I'm not having good luck searching for information on how this carb works, and am making educated guesses by looking at it.
I'm continuing the lengthly thread I started on "stock" - as I've now narrowed this down (well the next step of debugging anyway) the Carb.
Former thread with more details:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17287
In short:
- Weber 32/36 DFAV (actually an Autolite D12F EAD 1AD)
- Very hard to start, *lots* of backfiring, got to the point of turning corners going up hill then no power backfires, stalls, then won't start for a while.
- Replaced all ignition (points/rotor/cap/wires)
But I still had the same symptoms.
So I removed the Carb on Sat and there was a swimming pool of gas sitting in the bottom of the intake manifold. This would explain a lot (visible drops of gas blowing back through the barrels into the air, turning corner - sloshing gas into the cylinders and bogging it down.
I soaked out the gas with a rag, reinstalled the carb, and tried to start it *without* pumping the pedal. It immediately fired (so the ignition is working), but wouldn't run, and after turning it over for only a few seconds, looked through the carb into the manifold - and there is standing gas again in the bottom of the manifold.
I removed the carb and disassembled (see pics). I blew on the gas intake with the air horn inverted (so the valve was closed - and it sealed very well). The only think I'm not certain of is if the power valve (see large spring) is connecting with the valve at the bottom of the bowl and compressing it normally. I also removed that valve at the bottom of the bowl and it will not completely seal with normal pressure (i.e. I had to take a sharp object and compress the needle into the valve completely in order to keep from being able to blow through it) although it looks as if it may *not* never really need to seal, esp if this is an idle jet/valve?
I'm waiting on a carb rebuild kit - but I'm not sure that it will make much difference.
Keep in mind that I'm just trying to get the car working while I'm waiting on receiving my V6 conversion kit from Jose. I'm doing this as a learning experience before starting over with the V6 - but would like to get the carb running.
Other than doing a rebuild with the kit (again - not sure what the culprit is here - the gaskets look great) - not sure what to do other than spend a few hundred on a new carb - but that's not a guarantee (and I'd rather have a holley 4 barrel for the V6!).
-Mike
I'm continuing the lengthly thread I started on "stock" - as I've now narrowed this down (well the next step of debugging anyway) the Carb.
Former thread with more details:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17287
In short:
- Weber 32/36 DFAV (actually an Autolite D12F EAD 1AD)
- Very hard to start, *lots* of backfiring, got to the point of turning corners going up hill then no power backfires, stalls, then won't start for a while.
- Replaced all ignition (points/rotor/cap/wires)
But I still had the same symptoms.
So I removed the Carb on Sat and there was a swimming pool of gas sitting in the bottom of the intake manifold. This would explain a lot (visible drops of gas blowing back through the barrels into the air, turning corner - sloshing gas into the cylinders and bogging it down.
I soaked out the gas with a rag, reinstalled the carb, and tried to start it *without* pumping the pedal. It immediately fired (so the ignition is working), but wouldn't run, and after turning it over for only a few seconds, looked through the carb into the manifold - and there is standing gas again in the bottom of the manifold.
I removed the carb and disassembled (see pics). I blew on the gas intake with the air horn inverted (so the valve was closed - and it sealed very well). The only think I'm not certain of is if the power valve (see large spring) is connecting with the valve at the bottom of the bowl and compressing it normally. I also removed that valve at the bottom of the bowl and it will not completely seal with normal pressure (i.e. I had to take a sharp object and compress the needle into the valve completely in order to keep from being able to blow through it) although it looks as if it may *not* never really need to seal, esp if this is an idle jet/valve?
I'm waiting on a carb rebuild kit - but I'm not sure that it will make much difference.
Keep in mind that I'm just trying to get the car working while I'm waiting on receiving my V6 conversion kit from Jose. I'm doing this as a learning experience before starting over with the V6 - but would like to get the carb running.
Other than doing a rebuild with the kit (again - not sure what the culprit is here - the gaskets look great) - not sure what to do other than spend a few hundred on a new carb - but that's not a guarantee (and I'd rather have a holley 4 barrel for the V6!).
-Mike