Vicki the Alpine, sick needs help!

[TulsaAlpine]

O the Horror of it all seems Vicki the Alpine needs a knowledgeable mechanic since she will not start and run. We did get her pushed or wrenched back into the garage just in case it rains, maybe we should of left her out so it would rain. Anyway she has new spark plugs, cranks, turns over but coughs and spits fire out the carburetor. I backed her out Thursday to drive, noticed fuel leaking then noticed that two of the spark plugs were lose, hence the new ones. The first ones I replaced were different then what she originally had but what was recommended on this forum, she did start but ran rough and horrible, so we got the same old plugs, (Champion's) but new installed, now she will not start, ugh! Like the timing is all off now, or the distributer is screwed but was not touched by us. HELP! Would of been a nice day yesterday and today to drive her, bad Vicki!
Any suggestions accepted!
Fuel leak by the glass bowl fuel pump now is not leaking but gas pours out the carburetor, tried hitting the secret spot just in case the float was stuck, no luck with that. Times like this I wish I would of took Auto Mechanic's at VoTech and not Mechanical drafting, grrr

Donna

 

[Green67Alpine]

I'm no doctor but I've watched a bunch of them,
what carb? Start with the basics, sure you got the wires back in the right place?
What is the fuel pressure? (my pump started pumping more after a carb rebuild??
added a regulator no problems)(yep that made no sense to me either)

I'm sure the real Doctors will chime in with helpful advice, good luck

Tom j

 

[Jay Laifman]

Are you saying that it was running fine, you found a loose plug, so you changed the plugs, and then it ran poorly? Then you went back to the original type plugs and it was worse? But, in all that, you never touched the distributor?

With the rough running and flames, it shows you have both gas and spark going. So the only possibility is that you didn't realize it but your distributor itself was loose, and in pulling on and off the plug wires, it twisted.

I'd go grab the distributor and see if you can rotate it.

 

[TulsaAlpine]

Started right up, backed her out!

Are you saying that it was running fine, Yes she was started up and backed her out of the garage.

you found a loose plug, so you changed the plugs, and then it ran poorly?
Correct it was the two middle plugs that were lose, one more so then the other, this worries me, how did they get lose?

First I installed the NGK BP6RES they did not have the NGK BP6ES only the ones with the resister and it started but ran to fast and rough as heck, died on me and will not start now. Then I went back to the champion's it had only brand new.
you went back to the original type plugs and it was worse? But, in all that, you never touched the distributor?
Will not start at all now, Correct never touched the distributor!

With the rough running and flames, it shows you have both gas and spark going. So the only possibility is that you didn't realize it but your distributor itself was loose, and in pulling on and off the plug wires, it twisted.
It seemed to be on tight, all the wire plugs were on tight but yes that is what I am thinking has to be the problem.

I'd go grab the distributor and see if you can rotate it.
Will do that today and see if I can bring life to the old girl!

Thank you for the advice!

Donna

 

[sunalp]

Almost sounds like it could be a stuck or broken carb float.
It you're gushing fuel, you may have a flooded carb. That is
assuming you have a 2bbl Weber or such.

Just a thought, good luck!
Cheers,
Steve

 

[agmason54]

sick Vick.....

Donna
I agree with Jay.I've seen several distributors pop up out of the clamp. Some clamps get overtightened and crack the distributor base. I would remove the cap and see if you can move the rotor.If it moves around in place you have your answer.
Al

 

[puff4]

OK, not to think you're daft, but are you sure you put the plug wires back on the proper plugs? Check to ensure you've got them correct - if in doubt, set the crank at Top Dead Centre (TDC) using the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and remove the distributor cap... look where the rotor is pointing... that's #1 plug, so install that wire and then install the remaining wires, counting counterclockwise 1-3-4-2.

Next, I'd fix those carbs... they should not be flooding. I doubt the pressure is off, since you're using a mechanical pump - I've yet to see a stock pump provide too much pressure. Drop the fuel bowls and check the floats and needles for wear or debris. Clean out, measure the float height and reinstall. Try starting.

If that fails, then use the factory procedure to set the timing of the distributor. First, set the points to the proper gap... rotate the engine to 8 degrees before top dead centre on #1 cylinder... to do so, look for the longest timing mark on the harmonic balancer and set it so that the second mark before it is at the pointer on the timing case. Next, connect a 12v light between the spring-arm of the points and ground and rotate the distributor slowly counter-clockwise until the points just close. Turn on the ignition and slowly rotate the distributor clockwise (while keeping light pressure clockwise on the rotor) until the lamp lights (i.e. the points are just opening). Tighten the distributor clamp. Rotate the engine through one complete cycle using the crank and watch the light... it should light up at 8 degrees before TDC. This method of 'static' timing is very accurate and relatively easy. Now try to start it again.

If that fails, it's time to check your spark - in a darkened environment remove a plug, place the plug on a solid ground (valve cover works nicely) and have someone crank the motor with the ignition on... look for a healthy blue spark. If there is none, check your coil for proper resistance and if that's OK then replace the condensor on the points. Try starting again.

If that fails, replace the spark plug wires.

 

[TulsaAlpine]

Weber

I did remove the air filter, cleaned it off while it was off and tapped on the secret spot to allow the float to sink, yes she has done that stuck float once before on me, such a great invention of fuel injection in our modern cars. Still may be the problem tap harder, get a hammer, kidding.
Will remove the distributor cap and see what lurks inside it.

Thanks Everyone
Donna

 

[Tom H]

I have my money on swapped wires! Note that the two plugs that were loose and thus changed were the middle two. Those are the easiest pair of wires to swap! VERY easy to misconnect the plug wires to #2 and #3 plugs.

Tom

 

[TulsaAlpine]

Dang carborators!

Took off the distributor cap and it needs to be replaced, seems were it clips on the plastic chipped off but points good nothing burned and rotor good and tight. Tried to start her again battery all nice and charged up and spitting fire, gas going out the overflow, has to be a float. I don't want to tear into the carburetor and hubby walks away with I will not mess with them, thanks Hun. So I start taking off the air cleaner, then the top bolts, now that dang little tiny wire clip that holds the accelerator parts on, will I remember how to reinstall, time will tell. Found the problem one of the floats has broken off unsoldered, lose WTF!
So $400 dollar question can this be fixed or am I looking at a new carb?

Donna

 

[todd reid]

Vicki the Alpine

You should be able to replace or repair the float.

 

[agmason54]

sick Vick

Donna
So what kind of carb(s) are you running? You said you did not touch the distributor now you say you pulled two wires off and back on....
I now agree with Tom H. If you are running a Weber 2barrel then NAPA could hand you a float..When you speak of solder and the linkage clip it makes me think you are running an original Solex 2 barrel.
Agm

 

[TulsaAlpine]

Weber

Its is a Redline weber carburetor, not sure which one, 2 barrel, two brass floats one is lose the other still soldered to the clip. I don't see any model number on the darn thing just says WEBER. Manual choke model.
So the other $20 dollar question can I reuse that gasket that holds the top of the carburetor on, need a new one right?
NAPA has these parts for our Webers?

Donna

 

[agmason54]

help Vickie

Donna
NAPA sells rebuild parts for 2 barrel Pinto and Vega carbs. I run true Webers and Pinto( FoMoCo) and Vega( Holly) 2 barrels. Most but not all of the parts interchange but I am not sure about floats with out looking at true Weber and a FoMoCo copy of a Weber. The early Pinto carb I run has a plastic float. Holly, Holly-Weber and FoMoCo 2 barrels are all based on the Weber or so it seems.
Al

 

[Green67Alpine]

You've got it apart why take the chance, replace the gasket .
My .02

Tom j

 

[RootesRacer]

Somewhere stamped on the carb, it will say 32/32 or 32/36 with DGV or DFV (manual choke models).
You will be able to use DGEV or DGAV floats if its a DGV or DFEV or DFAV if its a DFV carb.

When you figure that out, go to napa and they should be able to cross reference the carb model to a standard application (IE fiat, ford ETC which used that model carb).

Worst case, knowing the model, order a new float from redline, webercarbsdirect or pierce manifolds.

 

[TulsaAlpine]

Took out my magnifying glass and

I am the proud owner of a Weber Carburetor (made in Spain) DGV5A 32/36 well it looks like a 36 kind of missed the plate and a serial number of 178 02
The gasket is stamped with an "E" I will take the top part of my Weber in with me to NAPA, might try my local Skiatook Auto Parts they seem to have a lot of hard to find fine thread bolts and nuts so I will try them first and then drive on to Owasso too NAPA first thing Monday morning. Do some internet parts shopping to see what's out there on line...
I did order a new distributor cap since the plastic did chip on the one I have at the clip and a new rotor, cost more for shipping then the parts.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Donna

 

[puff4]

Can you not just re-solder the float? Seems an easy job.

Also... you didn't say.. did you check the plug wire positions?

 

[TulsaAlpine]

Yes I did!

Yes I did recheck the plug position, seems my restoration guys made it Donna proof as they used plastic ties to secure the spark plug wires you cannot switch them unless you undo the plastic ties.
Well I do own a solder gun but not that good with it, I did find this online so now I know about all those extra parts or for on a Weber....LOL
http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGVDiaginfo.asp

Donna

 

[RootesRacer]

Yes I did recheck the plug position, seems my restoration guys made it Donna proof as they used plastic ties to secure the spark plug wires you cannot switch them unless you undo the plastic ties.
Well I do own a solder gun but not that good with it, I did find this online so now I know about all those extra parts or for on a Weber....LOL
http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGVDiaginfo.asp

Donna

Shows the weber part# is 41030.019

If you solder the old float, clean the gas off the old one with brake cleaner and allow it to fully dry. You will need acid flux and you will need to use a propane torch as a solder gun will not make enough heat to solder effectively something with that surface area. Plumbing solder should work. I'd avoid the new lead free solder, it is tough to work with and brittle.

Were it me, I'd definitely re-solder, its an easy fix.
Order the float too and swap it out when you have some downtime.