V6 Conversion

[wile coyote]

I'll get the designation of the cam when I get home. Got it from CompCams. Changed the distributor to a rebuilt '84 with a Duraspark system per the RangerStation information. Using the '85 Carb with a conversion to manual choke and and ?ECV valve removed and covered. I guess I won't know how this carb works til I get it in under a load, but it runs good so far.

 

[260Alpine]

It will run very rich unless you make a manual metering valve.



http://www.cardomain.com/ridepost/3816516/1986-ford-ranger-regular-cab/

http://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/index.php?threads/2150a-manual-metering-block-tuning.24514/

 

[wile coyote]

Finally got back on line. Cam is a 38-241-4 from Comp Cams. The other number is F60HV 264S-10. I made and installed the metering valve per the cardomain site. Now to start tearing down the car. Drove it around for the last time yesterday. Kinda bittersweet.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Just stopped by to offer some advice..........

Having gone through the long, drawn out ‘adventure’ of trying to get the 2150A to function as a decent ‘non-feedback’ carb after doing the Duraspark conversion, I would recommend NOT using it, and instead follow the advice given to me by the vast majority out there and ditch it for a non-feedback 2100 or the Holley 2300. There is a reason there are a crapload of 2150A carbs gathering dust out there. Without the factory stock ignition system and EPA junk, that carb will never be happy.

Do I still use mine? Yup, I was bull headed and ignored good advice in favor of taking on a challenge. Despite my unwise decision I received allot of help from some really great guys on this forum, especially Jim (260Alpine), so my mechanical skills have got it to work ‘well enough’ for the occasional Sunday drive or to get me to a local car show, and back. It still has unresolved issues, mainly, PITA starting and a mysterious rough idle that both still haunt me every time I go to drive it. If so much time and effort hadn’t already been put into getting it to where it’s currently at and I wasn’t such a cheap ass, I mean, so determined to keep the whole project as inexpensive as possible, I’m almost positive a quick trip the the local auto parts store would solve my carburation woes.

If your as determined/stubborn as I was, search my past threads on the subject and listen to what Jim says. Also, if you aren’t already, get very familiar with the that line of carbs.

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/motorcraft-2150.html


Mike

 

[260Alpine]

Another issue with older Ford and Holley carbs. If they backfire through the carb, 9 times out of 1o you will have a blown power valve. Newer Holleys have power valve protection. Your power valve should be rated at 1/2 your max vacuum reading for best results. Mike's link has a good rebuild/tuning section for the Ford 2150 carb.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Another issue with older Ford and Holley carbs. If they backfire through the carb, 9 times out of 1o you will have a blown power valve. Newer Holleys have power valve protection. Your power valve should be rated at 1/2 your max vacuum reading for best results. Mike's link has a good rebuild/tuning section for the Ford 2150 carb.

Hi Jim, that’s true. From what I remember if it’s diaphragm is blown it will leak fuel into the venturies during idle causing it to idle rough and rich, and a test for that is to screw in the idle mixture screws, if the engine continues to run, even roughly, then it’s blown. I have done that test on my carb in the past and it seems to not blown.

 

[W2 & Lora]

Ok, I think I am making progress. I was able to verify the clutch is not being depressed enough by the throwout bearing, so I am adding shims. Hopefully that will solve the problem. Another bell housing with the traditional fork assembly is on its way if that doesn't work.

 

[DanR]

W2, I'm back on trying to install the Ram Hyd release bearing in one of my V6's.....Just started late this afternoon.

How many shims are you using so far?

 

[W2 & Lora]

I have 2 in and if I can persude the damn bearingto slide off of the shaft, I am going to try the other 2 for a total of 4. For some reason, I can't the assembly to slide off so I can install them.

 

[W2 & Lora]

Alrighty. I installed the other two shims after I finally persueded the bearing assembly to come off of the shaft. The shaft had formed a bit of surface rust that was keeping the unit from sliding easily. Anyway, shims installed, engine mated up, clutch bled and tested. I was able to turn the drive shaft with it in gear and Miss Lora pushing the pedal. She said the pedal feel was good. So, now, finally, I can finish getting the engine ready for it's first time firing.

 

[DanR]

Warren, I was able to do a bit of adjusting to mine today, took 6 of the black spacers four of them back to back. I guess I'm starting to install the engine tomorrow time permitting.

 

[sunalp]

Sounds like you're making really good progress! Can't wait for the engine to actually make it's own noise.
Looking forward to seeing your car at the United.

Cheers!
Steve

 

[W2 & Lora]

Hey! I am almost ready for the first firing! However, small snag. Apparently I bought the wrong spark plug wire set. So tomorrow I will take the cap with me to the parts store and see what they have. Otherwise, I turned it over to find TDC, wired up the ignition (using HEI), temporarily wired up the fuel pump. I also still need to install the throttle cable using the racing kit DanR recommended. Fingers crossed. If all goes well, a friend will put it on his roll back and haul it to the exhaust shop for me.

 

[DanR]

Sounding good!

 

[Charles Johns]

Just stopped by to offer some advice..........

Having gone through the long, drawn out ‘adventure’ of trying to get the 2150A to function as a decent ‘non-feedback’ carb after doing the Duraspark conversion, I would recommend NOT using it, and instead follow the advice given to me by the vast majority out there and ditch it for a non-feedback 2100 or the Holley 2300. There is a reason there are a crapload of 2150A carbs gathering dust out there. Without the factory stock ignition system and EPA junk, that carb will never be happy.

Do I still use mine? Yup, I was bull headed and ignored good advice in favor of taking on a challenge. Despite my unwise decision I received allot of help from some really great guys on this forum, especially Jim (260Alpine), so my mechanical skills have got it to work ‘well enough’ for the occasional Sunday drive or to get me to a local car show, and back. It still has unresolved issues, mainly, PITA starting and a mysterious rough idle that both still haunt me every time I go to drive it. If so much time and effort hadn’t already been put into getting it to where it’s currently at and I wasn’t such a cheap ass, I mean, so determined to keep the whole project as inexpensive as possible, I’m almost positive a quick trip the the local auto parts store would solve my carburation woes.

If your as determined/stubborn as I was, search my past threads on the subject and listen to what Jim says. Also, if you aren’t already, get very familiar with the that line of carbs.

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/motorcraft-2150.html


Mike

For those not familiar with the Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 series carb story - Ford spent over a million dollars in 1957 (several million $$$ today) to engineer from scratch the best carb available. The result was the 2100 with "annular atomization" that dumped the fuel directly into the airstream for better atomization. This gave quicker response, better low-end torque and better mpg. It also allowed one to make HP through a wider range of rpm. At the time Holley worked with Ford and they now have annular-discharge. The details are sketchy as to how Holley got to use Ford's design...but they did. Ford held the patent for 50 years, so 1957 to 2007, but by '07 when the patent ran out, everything was Fuel Injected. I have a 2150 to go on my Ford 2.3 on top of an Esslinger intake. With a .75 overdrive 30 plus mpg should be easy. With a 2100 on my much modified Mustang 6 cylinder I got 24.5 with the cool-air intake disconnected, running 75/80 mph with the AC on all the time and no overdrive. Why do I like the carb? No computer needed. The pic is my 64 and my Beam.

 

[Charles Johns]

Well, I have officially started the V6 conversion and with today's work, I am committed. The old motor mounts are gone. Just fiinshed grinding the old welds away and tomorrow will be cleaning the crossmember and painting it. I'll post as I go. My plan is to be done by the end of March.

AHHH yes, the ol' cardboard creeper. Every garage needs at least 2...minimum.

 

[PROCRAFT]

Dan here's a little info on the RAM DEAL we machined a 1" Delrin spacer for ours and discarded all the Ram spacers. as a side note picked up the drive shaft I fabbed over the weekend from the balancer, in Indy, installed in the car and we have brakes, also, chased that around too damm long found a hard line was sucking air had a -3 an line made up to replace, job done, so much for Bundy flex tubing!

 

[Mike Armstrong]

For those not familiar with the Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 series carb story - Ford spent over a million dollars in 1957 (several million $$$ today) to engineer from scratch the best carb available. The result was the 2100 with "annular atomization" that dumped the fuel directly into the airstream for better atomization. This gave quicker response, better low-end torque and better mpg. It also allowed one to make HP through a wider range of rpm. At the time Holley worked with Ford and they now have annular-discharge. The details are sketchy as to how Holley got to use Ford's design...but they did. Ford held the patent for 50 years, so 1957 to 2007, but by '07 when the patent ran out, everything was Fuel Injected. I have a 2150 to go on my Ford 2.3 on top of an Esslinger intake. With a .75 overdrive 30 plus mpg should be easy. With a 2100 on my much modified Mustang 6 cylinder I got 24.5 with the cool-air intake disconnected, running 75/80 mph with the AC on all the time and no overdrive. Why do I like the carb? No computer needed. The pic is my 64 and my Beam.

Nice pic Charles, and interesting history about those carbs. I’ve read in several places about the Motorcraft 2100/2150 being two of the best carbs ever made. I’ve also read that unfortunately, when they modified the non-feedback 2150 for electronics/pollution it became the feedback model 2150A and basically ruined it (well, at least when you go to use it without the electronics and pollution crap). Converting that carb back to its non-feedback glory is pretty much hit or miss and judging by the reaction on the net about attempting to do so, it’s probably more miss than hit.

 

[DanR]

Dan here's a little info on the RAM DEAL we machined a 1" Delrin spacer for ours and discarded all the Ram spacers. as a side note picked up the drive shaft I fabbed over the weekend from the balancer, in Indy, installed in the car and we have brakes, also, chased that around too damm long found a hard line was sucking air had a -3 an line made up to replace, job done, so much for Bundy flex tubing!

My spacing took a bit over 1 inch.

Working on calipers now for several of my Alpines.

 

[PROCRAFT]

Dan, I mentioned that to Ram in one of our conversations and "oh yea we found that might be the case"