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V6 Conversion Motor

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Jerry,

You will need to remove the front collar from the transmission to have the O.D. of the flange turned down to fit the hole in the bellhousing. It should be between .002"-.0025" smaller than the hole.

If you have a 1994 and later T5, you will also need to have the tube where the throw out bearing rides, shortened by about .50", so it won´t hit the fingers of the pressure plate. If you are using a pre 1994 T5, I recommend getting a replacement with a steel tube, so the throw out bearing doesn´t gall the tube (they are made of aluminum) and cause the throw out bearing to bind. You can get them from any of the speed shops.

The input shaft from the 1994 and later T5s, needs to have the pilot bearing spud ground down to the Mustang II four speed size, so you can use a stock V6 pilot bearing in the end of the crank.

Be very careful when you remove the input shaft. It has a bunch of small needle bearings inside, that support the main shaft. If you aren´t careful, you could easily drop some of them inside the transmission case, then you´ll have fun getting them out.

Jose
 

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
If you opt to buy a steel bearing retainer, get the one for the 5.0 T5, then you will only have to worry about the flange diameter. The 5.0 retainer is already shorter.
 

JDSunbeam

Donation Time
They say pictures are worth a thousand words. Does anybody have and of these modifications?

Also, I read an article somewhere that stated anybody with basic mechanical skills can get this done in 20 hours...somehow I think that's an understatement.
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Jerry,

You probably read my response to you that said, "If you know how to weld, you could have the engine and transmission setting in your Alpine within 20 hours or less." I in no way meant to give the impression the whole conversion could be completed in 20 hours. If you remember, I said that it has been done within as little as 30 days, but the usual length of time most guys take to complete it, is six months.

Jose
 

JDSunbeam

Donation Time
Eh, you're probably right. I've been reading so much lately it's all becoming a blur. Really, it'll probably take me at least a year anyways since I'm the weekend warrior type.

So on that note, does anyone have any pictures denoting which areas I need to turn down/shorten?

Jerry
 

socorob

Donation Time
When you get the trans and bellhousing, and try to slide them together, youll see exactly what is needed. Just a little bit needs to come off the shaft for it to fit into the bell. Then with the pilot bearing, youll see what needs to come off the end. Theres no guesswork involved really. I was nervous about doing all this when i swapped out my C4 auto for a t5, but once you have all the pieces in hand, everything is obvious, and people here will answer all of your questions. See the big round part thats from 4.25-4.5, thats the part. It just barely doesnt fit into the bell. You could open up the hole in the bell, but the retainer is the more easily found part to replace. My t5 was from a v6 mustang, 2000, and the pictured retainer i bought from jegs for the v8 mustang, and it was a little shorter, so i didnt need to change the length.
 

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  • t5 bearing retainer 2.jpg
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V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Robbie,

you don´t want to open up the hole in the bellhousing, because it is too easy to move the hole by mistake, which would cause you a lot of problems with alignment of the inputshaft. Turning down the O.D. of the collar is way easier and quicker. If you miss on the O.D. size while turning it down, it is a lot cheaper to replace the collar and easier to find another, than to find another bellhousing.

Jose
 

JDSunbeam

Donation Time
Hey Robbie,

I called Jegs because it seems the easiest route for me. They said they only had two retainers, one for pre '94 and one for the '94-'95 V8 Mustangs. Do you remember which one should I order?

Thanks,

Jerry
 

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
I'm guess the 93 and earlier is shorter, based on the following:

1994 and 95 were the last two years Ford used the T-5 behind a V-8. In the SN95 Mustangs, the bell housing in both 3.8L and 5.0L was made longer to place the T-5 shifter in the correct location to the body. This in turn made the input shaft longer. The neutral safety switch was eliminated, as it was no longer needed. Everything else remained the same.

The input shaft on the 93 and older 5.0 mustangs is 7.18" while the 94-95 V8 T5's where 7.85"

And since the 94 and 95 V8 and V6 T5 has the same length input shaft, I would think you would want the 93 and earlier V8 retainer.

This link shows the differences:

http://www.v8-ranger.com/red/t5/t5.php
 

JDSunbeam

Donation Time
Getting closer and getting more excited.

Should I be using the clutch slave cylinder from the Mustang II as well? Is there an aftermarket one that's more preferred?

Jose, do you have those part numbers for the alternators you'd mentioned?

BTW, anyone here in Nor Cal???
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi JD,

I´m sorry I haven´t sent it, but I am so forgetful, that I couldn´t remember who I was supposed to send it to. Please send me your email address again, so I can send the info.

The Mustang II didn´t use a hydraulic clutch. It used a cable to operate the clutch. I will send you the information for the clutch slave cylinder you´ll need. The stock master will work fine too.

Jose


Getting closer and getting more excited.

Should I be using the clutch slave cylinder from the Mustang II as well? Is there an aftermarket one that's more preferred?

Jose, do you have those part numbers for the alternators you'd mentioned?

BTW, anyone here in Nor Cal???
 

socorob

Donation Time
I used a 3G ford alternator from a 90s Taurus. It's over 100 amps internally regulated and pretty much bolted right on. I wanted to have a more modern alternator but I had to switch pulleys with the old mustang 2 one so the belt would work.
 

pcmenten

Donation Time
4.0 vs 2.8

I don't see any 2.8L engines in the local craigslist, but I do see 4.0 engines. Will a 4.0L work?

I apologize for asking because I know it has been asked before, I just can't find the question using the 'search' facility. Searching on the term "4.0" violates a search rule about length of the term being too short.
 

bulldurham

Platinum Level Sponsor
clutch slave

JD, I used the Wilwood slave and if I remember I ordered it from JEGs. Once I got it adjusted properly, I have had no problems w/ it, 1 1/2 years later. I set it to release fairly close to the floor.
You can also set it up to bleed from the top side which is convenient.
 

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Unfortunately, the only 60 degree V6 that will fit easily, is the Ford 2.8 V6, because of the exhaust port configuration. The 2.8 has two of the ports close together toward the middle of the head, where the 4.0 and other V6s have the ports evenly distributed across the head. With the even distribution, the rear port on the driver´s side sits right where the steering arm swings. You wouldn´t be able to put a header pipe on it. if you want to go with a 4.0 (it has been done), you will need to change the steering system from a recirculating ball type, to a rack and pinion, like the Tigers have. You will lose the fine Alpine steering, plus it will take a lot of work and money. You will also need to modify the fire wall to accommodate the longer 4.0, or you´ll need to move the radiator forward. You will also need to have a custom intake manifold made, because the stock fuel injection manifold, sits too high to be able to make it fit under the stock hood, unless you put a big hood scoop on it.


I don't see any 2.8L engines in the local craigslist, but I do see 4.0 engines. Will a 4.0L work?

I apologize for asking because I know it has been asked before, I just can't find the question using the 'search' facility. Searching on the term "4.0" violates a search rule about length of the term being too short.
 

pcmenten

Donation Time
Parts list

I'm going to re-cap the parts needed to do the swap, just to be clear;

- Bell housing from a Mustang II V6 (fits T5 transmission)
(flywheel, clutch cover, clutch plate?)
- Timing chain cover from Mustang II V6 (shallow - fits Sunbeam engine bay)
- Pulley set from Mustang II V6 (crank pulley, water pump pully - fits engine bay)
- Water pump from Mustang II V6 (fits engine bay)
- T5 transmission from late 80's, early 90's 4 and 6 cylinder Fox chassis, i.e. Mustang, Thunderbird (longer input shaft than the V8 transmission and better gear ratios)
- 2.8 V6 engine from 83-86 Ford Ranger (Not sure why. Sump? Better reliability?)

Then source Jose's engine swap kit.

Questions;

Does anybody know if the Bronco II engine also works?
Is there a preferred set of exhaust manifolds?
Is there any trickery to fitting an alternator? A/C?

I found a Mustang II in a boneyard that has the needed parts. ($230) Also found a Bronco II V6 with an alleged bad valve. ($100). I happen to have a V6 crank kit in case the Ranger engine's crank is fubar.

I'll save the questions of performance parts for another time.
 
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