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V6 Bell Housing (Ford)

DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
One of our members attempting to do the V6 Conversion has a Bell Housing from a Mustang II / Ranger that has the following Part Numbers: 7515 CA.

According to his measurements and PIC's it is identificable to the elusive Mustang II Bell Housing.

It has the Bell crank on the driver's side and the starter mount in the correct place. Bolt pattern measures the same.

Seems as he has discovered another "Bell Housing" available for the conversion (?)....

UPDATE: IT IS NOT A DIFFERENT part numbered BELLHOUSING - THE PART NUMBER IS 6394 ! EXACT SAME AS WHAT IS NEED FOR THE CONVERSION.
 
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bulldurham

bulldurham

Platinum Level Sponsor
Interesting.. On the bell I have, the # for the clutch lever is D4ZA-7515
The bell is D4ZA-6394. Could he have gotten the #'s reversed??
 
P

pcmenten

Donation Time
bulldurham is right, the revision numbers will start with a letter for the decade, D for 70's or E for 80's, then a numeric for the year within that decade, then a two character part revision number. I think they call it the engineering number?

Example; D4ZA is 1974 (D4), version ZA. The next group of four numerals is a generic number that signifies what the basic part is; 6394 is a bellhousing. There can be additional alpha-numeric after the part number, but the significant identifier is the D4aa - E7aa engineering number.

Let us know what the engineering number is. That will help identify the source of the part.

Paul
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Thanks Guys, I'll ask him where he got the number from. MY NUMBERS 6394 are on the back side. Between the Bellhousing and the transmission.

I did not see "where" he said he got the number. Just know the Pic's and the measurements were identical to the "elusive" Mustang II's.
 
MikeH

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
pcmenten said:
bulldurham is right, the revision numbers will start with a letter for the decade, D for 70's or E for 80's, then a numeric for the year within that decade, then a two character part revision number. I think they call it the engineering number?

Example; D4ZA is 1974 (D4), version ZA. The next group of four numerals is a generic number that signifies what the basic part is; 6394 is a bellhousing. There can be additional alpha-numeric after the part number, but the significant identifier is the D4aa - E7aa engineering number.

Let us know what the engineering number is. That will help identify the source of the part.

Paul
Click to expand...

The ZA part of the part number is the model first used on and department.
Z is Mustang. The A lists as chassis in the first link and truck division in the second.

http://www.fairlanet.com/partnumbers/

http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html
 
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DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
All cleared up!

OK GUys, the number of his bell housing is 6394.

It just took a bit to get him to find the numbers located in the correct place:D

All is well,
 
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DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Yes! That is the Prefix With the Letters "CC" at the end. Which reads as follows: D4ZA 6394 CC

My friend was reading a set of numbers for a component as several guys pointed out or questioned.

I found another Bell housing too!
 
L

lhb009

Donation Time
CC Suffix

Does anyone know what the suffix CC means? It appears that the D4ZA 6394 CC would work. Does anyone know if this would also work with a 2.6 V6? the bolt patterns seem to match up, but I wonder about the flywheel, etc?
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
The flywheel from the 2.6 will fit the 2.8 and vicecersa, except that the 2.6 flywheel uses a 3/8" spacer between the crank and the flywheel, but the 2.8 does not. The 2.8 V6 flywheel has this distance made up in the flywheel itself.

Both flywheels will work with the Mustang II bellhousing, as they are the same diameter and have the same count of teeth on the ring gear.

Clutches and pressure plates will also interchange, as they both have the same bolt pattern. The difference is in the pressure plates. They both will work, but the 2.6 V6 uses a slightly softer pressure plate, because it came in a Capri, which is a lighter car than the Mustang II.

If you use the 2.6 V6 flywheel, make sure that you also put in the spacer, because if you don´t, the clutch will not release, as it is past the travel of the clutch arm stroke.

Jose


lhb009 said:
Does anyone know what the suffix CC means? It appears that the D4ZA 6394 CC would work. Does anyone know if this would also work with a 2.6 V6? the bolt patterns seem to match up, but I wonder about the flywheel, etc?
Click to expand...
 
C

coupe

Donation Time
Hey Jose, good to hear from you. On the 2.6 flywheel, I had that problem when I did my v6. The clutch worked fine but the starter stayed engaged till I had a spacer machined for it to move it back to clear the ring gear. I drove it till I located the 2.8 fly wheel. If they want pictures of that blunder I can post them I was quite flustered till I figured out where to get the new flywheel. It took some hunting to find one. I will add that that 2.6 setup put to much pressure on the front bearing support I found it loose in it's mount plate, that was replaced with a new one when I put her back together.
Live and learn.
COUPE
 
C

coupe

Donation Time
I am sorry, I feel like a fool I've searched for those files and can not find the location. If and when I can find them I will post, till then the search goes on, again sorry.
Coupe
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Coupe,

How is your Alpine running? I´m glad you figured out the problem and knew how to fix it. My problem with the clutch not working, was because I was using a hydraulic throw out bearing and it reachec it´s travel limit before it reached the pressure plate fingers.

I had just completely assembled the turbo Alpine, and had to completely disassemble it to fix the problem. That was a job.

Jose


coupe said:
Hey Jose, good to hear from you. On the 2.6 flywheel, I had that problem when I did my v6. The clutch worked fine but the starter stayed engaged till I had a spacer machined for it to move it back to clear the ring gear. I drove it till I located the 2.8 fly wheel. If they want pictures of that blunder I can post them I was quite flustered till I figured out where to get the new flywheel. It took some hunting to find one. I will add that that 2.6 setup put to much pressure on the front bearing support I found it loose in it's mount plate, that was replaced with a new one when I put her back together.
Live and learn.
COUPE
Click to expand...
 
C

coupe

Donation Time
Hi Jose, the car runs very well. I've put 800 miles on it, I may put some time into the carb cause she loads up a little on hot days when a long idle time happens and sometimes stalls and is hard to restart.
I have not tried to do to much rubber into smoke till I can makeup some type of traction bars to stop the spring windup, I don't want to duplicate the tiger problem of torn out spring mounts. This thing has terrible wheel hop unless you really spin up the v6 and have a positive break in traction, I don't like to wind her up that hard. It will last longer if I treat her nice!
Well it's good to hear from you, hope you have happy holidays and see all your family and friends
Coupe
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Coupe,

I think you are wise to not be jumpingn on it until you have traction bars on the rear. I just looked up a set of Lakewood traction/lift bars like the ones I used on my V6 Alpines. What is great about them, is they transfer weight so well, that you rarely can break the tires loose. The car just shoots forward and goes. The two numbers I recommend, depenmding on the diameter of the axle tubes, are Lakewood #21604 or 21602.they are Ford cars. I would call JEGS and ask them which one would be better for your application. Your wheel hop problem will be gone.

If you have 800 miles on it, I would say that your engine is broken in already, so don´t be afraid to buzz it up a bit.

Jose


coupe said:
Hi Jose, the car runs very well. I've put 800 miles on it, I may put some time into the carb cause she loads up a little on hot days when a long idle time happens and sometimes stalls and is hard to restart.
I have not tried to do to much rubber into smoke till I can makeup some type of traction bars to stop the spring windup, I don't want to duplicate the tiger problem of torn out spring mounts. This thing has terrible wheel hop unless you really spin up the v6 and have a positive break in traction, I don't like to wind her up that hard. It will last longer if I treat her nice!
Well it's good to hear from you, hope you have happy holidays and see all your family and friends
Coupe
Click to expand...
 
C

Chuck Ingram

Donation Time
V6 JOSE said:
Hi Coupe,

I think you are wise to not be jumpingn on it until you have traction bars on the rear. I just looked up a set of Lakewood traction/lift bars like the ones I used on my V6 Alpines. What is great about them, is they transfer weight so well, that you rarely can break the tires loose. The car just shoots forward and goes. The two numbers I recommend, depenmding on the diameter of the axle tubes, are Lakewood #21604 or 21602.they are Ford cars. I would call JEGS and ask them which one would be better for your application. Your wheel hop problem will be gone.

If you have 800 miles on it, I would say that your engine is broken in already, so don´t be afraid to buzz it up a bit.

Jose
Click to expand...

They sure do work.When I first floored the 351 in the Lister it put the back of the car down and the tires actually got scraped. Put the bars on and you can feel the rear actually lifting somewhat
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Chuck,

We are so accostumed to the rear of the car squating underhard acceleration, that when it actually rises, it surprises us. The lift bars do stop wheel hop and increases traction, so you don´t get as much wheel spin as when you use a regular traction bar. I personally love them.

I can imagine how much your Lister needs them. That big V8, with all that torque, would really cause severe wheel hop. I love it when the car just scoots when you get on it.

Jose
 
C

coupe

Donation Time
I looked at the bars and have seen another type called caltrac. They have a bell crank setup that pushes down on the spring at the wrap up point, I see the cost is high but don't know which is the better to use. If any one can say if they are any good I think I might fabricate a set for myself.
Coupe
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Coupe,

Do you have a picture of this set up? I´d like to see how it works.

Jose


coupe said:
I looked at the bars and have seen another type called caltrac. They have a bell crank setup that pushes down on the spring at the wrap up point, I see the cost is high but don't know which is the better to use. If any one can say if they are any good I think I might fabricate a set for myself.
Coupe
Click to expand...
 
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