After fighting the old carb for several days and a multitude of internet searches, I offer this to anyone tuning a 32-36. No secrets, it's all available some place, but some of it is hard to find.
1. Be sure your ignition system is up to snuff. I had a miss in the mid 4,000 range that was due to a new, but faulty condenser.
2. The idle (or more aptly, low speed circuit) is in full control of events up to about 2,000 rpm. That is with the 2.0. Probably higher with a 1725.
3. The main jets come into full play at about 3,000, once again with the 2.0.
4. The emulsion tubes control the gap between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm.
5. The air corrector jets do not come into play until the upper 4,000's.
How to tune the 32-36:
A. Make sure the float setting is correct. A submerged Weber cannot be properly tuned.
B. Make sure the fuel pressure is correct. A submerged Weber cannot be properly tuned.
C. Tune the low speed circuit as described here:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm.
The .50 idle jet should work fine.
D. Select the proper main jets. Begin with the same (or closely sized) jet in primary and secondary. Pay attention only to operation in the 3,000 - 4,000 rpm range, selecting for optimum performance.
E. Fill the gap between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm with the emulsion tube. A skinny e-tube allows the main jet to kick in earlier. I was running a lean (125) main jet and fat e-tube. At about 2,700 to 3,000 it was pathetic. Changing to 135 main and skinny e-tube made a huge difference, also helping out somewhat as low as 2,000.
F. At this time, it is probably safe to start swapping secondary jets, looking for the best performance. By this time you should be able to feel the secondary kick in. I was happy with 135's and skinny e-tubes in both. I'm sure they are far from optimum.
G. Adjust the 4,500 and up area with the air corrector jets. The larger the jet, the less fuel.
I also had a light throttle surge at low (low teens) rpm. Sometimes it would be barely noticeable, other times very bad. I decided it was probably caused by loose throttle shafts. So I reamed out the shaft bearings and installed brass bushes. It appears that has about eliminated the problem. If you have an old 32-36, a light throttle surge and the throttle shafts can be rattled, they are probably the problem.
I am by no means a 32-36 expert. The 32-36 is a surprisingly complex piece and can be very confusing to tune without some basic information. Knowing the progression of events is critical. This should help you get started.
Bill
1. Be sure your ignition system is up to snuff. I had a miss in the mid 4,000 range that was due to a new, but faulty condenser.
2. The idle (or more aptly, low speed circuit) is in full control of events up to about 2,000 rpm. That is with the 2.0. Probably higher with a 1725.
3. The main jets come into full play at about 3,000, once again with the 2.0.
4. The emulsion tubes control the gap between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm.
5. The air corrector jets do not come into play until the upper 4,000's.
How to tune the 32-36:
A. Make sure the float setting is correct. A submerged Weber cannot be properly tuned.
B. Make sure the fuel pressure is correct. A submerged Weber cannot be properly tuned.
C. Tune the low speed circuit as described here:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm.
The .50 idle jet should work fine.
D. Select the proper main jets. Begin with the same (or closely sized) jet in primary and secondary. Pay attention only to operation in the 3,000 - 4,000 rpm range, selecting for optimum performance.
E. Fill the gap between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm with the emulsion tube. A skinny e-tube allows the main jet to kick in earlier. I was running a lean (125) main jet and fat e-tube. At about 2,700 to 3,000 it was pathetic. Changing to 135 main and skinny e-tube made a huge difference, also helping out somewhat as low as 2,000.
F. At this time, it is probably safe to start swapping secondary jets, looking for the best performance. By this time you should be able to feel the secondary kick in. I was happy with 135's and skinny e-tubes in both. I'm sure they are far from optimum.
G. Adjust the 4,500 and up area with the air corrector jets. The larger the jet, the less fuel.
I also had a light throttle surge at low (low teens) rpm. Sometimes it would be barely noticeable, other times very bad. I decided it was probably caused by loose throttle shafts. So I reamed out the shaft bearings and installed brass bushes. It appears that has about eliminated the problem. If you have an old 32-36, a light throttle surge and the throttle shafts can be rattled, they are probably the problem.
I am by no means a 32-36 expert. The 32-36 is a surprisingly complex piece and can be very confusing to tune without some basic information. Knowing the progression of events is critical. This should help you get started.
Bill