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Series V 3.89 differential

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
I have had good luck with Mustang, Mazda and Jeep calipers. Mounts are easy to fabricate to match rotors of your choosing depending on your application.


Which of those Mustang, Mazda and Jeep calipers will work on a Series Alpine with factory spindles and the factory steel wheels?
 
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Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
Alpine and tiger fronts are the same . So the Willowood kits will work... But many require larger wheels.

No "may" about it; Wilwood clearly notes that their front brake kit for the Tiger (and Alpine) requires a minimum 15" wheel diameter.


It's not the disc size that creates the stopping its the pad area and material...

OTBE, braking power is directly proportional to the diameter of the disk brake rotor.

OTBE, braking power is directly proportional to the total area of the caliper piston(s).

OTBE, the area of the brake pads does not affect braking power (coefficient of friction), but may affect pad life.

OTBE, softer (again, coefficient of friction) brake pads should provide more braking power, but may wear faster.

OTBE, vented brake disks do not provide more braking power than non-vented brake disks, but may provide better resistance to "brake fade" during repeated hard stops.


And....the grip of the actual tyres

Traction absolutely matters; probably more than braking power in most cases. There is no need for increased braking power on a Series Alpine with with factory width street tires. Reducing brake pedal effort and / or eliminating the single point of failure brake system design are different issues.
 
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Shannon Boal

Platinum Level Sponsor
Alpine and tiger fronts are the same . So the Willowood kits will work... But many require larger wheels.

It's not the disc size that creates the stopping its the pad area and material... And....the grip of the actual tyres
My Alpine V has 15" Panasport wheels....I probably would do well to start by replacing front pads and rotors with best available stock type, and rear shoes which may be glazed from driving with parking brake applied.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
The GM "Metric" caliper is an easy install, using modified Speedway Motors Metric caliper brackets. The hard part is finding rotors that are compatible with the Alpine hubs and position the caliper correctly. Compatible may mean different things to different guys with different workshops. If this case, it means something that I can modify to be acceptable. Definitely not bolt on. Also need 7/8" MC if using the 2 1/2" Metric caliper.

IIRC, the Saturn calipers are pretty small, but more than 1" bore.
Bill
 

spmdr

Diamond Level Sponsor
For those that think rear brakes do very little,

Ask yourself, If that is true, Why are cars made with REAR Brakes?

The Tiger in my avatar has Stock Rear Drum Brakes!

HOWEVER it does NOT have stock rear brake shoes!

Brake Friction material is EVERYTHING!

Regardless of Brake type, the correct Friction material is Key.

As a disclaimer, I have not kept up with Brake Tech.

The rear brake shoes (material) have been the same for over 20 years!

AND with the higher temp working shoes, Rear brake Ventilation

WAS absolutely Necessary, to keep the brake Drums from Cracking!

I have been using Carbotech Kelated Metallic shoes.

If you are serious about your Brakes, get the right lining material first.

IF that does not work out, change your brakes.

However, consider the Cost of the Better Friction pads before settling on

a type of caliper.

Prices can very a BUNCH for the same Friction material for different cars.

DW
 

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
Have you replaced the rubber hoses in the braking system? If not, start with that. Then push new brake fluid through the system. Start with left front wheel, then right front, then right rear, and then left rear. Then retest brakes. As an initial test, you can elevate the wheel and apply the brakes and try to rotate the elevated tire. At least then you know the wheel cylinders are engaging. Then move on to customizing with new MC and proportioning vale if desired.

Mike
Did what you said and all is good now. I only drive car to events.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
It all depends on driving style. Twenty years ago, I read that dirt track racers, running hopped up Ford 2.3 200hp engines, mostly in Pintos and Mutt 2's, preferred the Pinto 6 3/4" rear over the 8" rear. Good enough ratio selection, Light, cheap and durable. However, it did not like to be T-boned. As being T- boned was never on any drivers race card, that was not viewed as a problem.
Bill
 

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
For those that think rear brakes do very little,

Ask yourself, If that is true, Why are cars made with REAR Brakes?

The Tiger in my avatar has Stock Rear Drum Brakes!

HOWEVER it does NOT have stock rear brake shoes!

Brake Friction material is EVERYTHING!

Regardless of Brake type, the correct Friction material is Key.

As a disclaimer, I have not kept up with Brake Tech.

The rear brake shoes (material) have been the same for over 20 years!

AND with the higher temp working shoes, Rear brake Ventilation

WAS absolutely Necessary, to keep the brake Drums from Cracking!

I have been using Carbotech Kelated Metallic shoes.

If you are serious about your Brakes, get the right lining material first.

IF that does not work out, change your brakes.

However, consider the Cost of the Better Friction pads before settling on

a type of caliper.

Prices can very a BUNCH for the same Friction material for different cars.

DW
AGREED! The issue of no rear braking was easily remedied on my SV was to install proportioning valve.
 

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
That's interesting. :confused:

After new lines were run to the rear drums and brakes bled, the proportioning valve was adjusted with most pressure going to rear brakes. Fun to watch car skidding in parking lot. Then valve was slowly adjusted to allow more pressure to the fronts. Now F an R are about equal and the car is now actually fun to drive. Yanked the booster if anyone wants it......
 

911tr8r

Gold Level Sponsor
After new lines were run to the rear drums and brakes bled, the proportioning valve was adjusted with most pressure going to rear brakes. Fun to watch car skidding in parking lot. Then valve was slowly adjusted to allow more pressure to the fronts. Now F an R are about equal and the car is now actually fun to drive. Yanked the booster if anyone wants it......
Oops! Apparently only the rears are affected by the valve.
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
The whole purpose of me trying to improve the braking for the Sunbeam was an application to "all" of them from stock steel 13" and wire 13".

I did right good for the wires. Just haven't been as successful for the steel. I will revisit them again time permitting.

Just trying to use the KISS principle.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Dan, what seems to be interfering with the wheel? I'm thinking I probably packed parts inside my wheel tighter than you did. Sort of adopted Jose's principle of "clearance is clearance". The good news is that I experienced no interference as miles went by.
Bill
 

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
The whole purpose of me trying to improve the braking for the Sunbeam was an application to "all" of them from stock steel 13" and wire 13".

I did right good for the wires. Just haven't been as successful for the steel. I will revisit them again time permitting.

Just trying to use the KISS principle.



The significant dimensional difference between the 13" factory steel wheels and 13" factory spoke wheels on Series Alpines is that the rear spoke wheels are positioned 1-1/4" further outboard than the rear steel wheels. I suspect that moving the 13" factory rear steel wheels outward by using a 1" or 1-1/4" wheel adapter (sometimes incorrectly referred to as a "spacer") will solve your problem of caliper interference with the 13" factory rear steel wheels.

https://lugnutguys.com/collections/adapters-2/products/wheel-spacer-4x4-25-25mm-thick-12x1-5-studs
 
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Hodee

Donation Time
For those that think rear brakes do very little,

Ask yourself, If that is true, Why are cars made with REAR Brakes?

The Tiger in my avatar has Stock Rear Drum Brakes!

HOWEVER it does NOT have stock rear brake shoes!

Brake Friction material is EVERYTHING!

Regardless of Brake type, the correct Friction material is Key.

As a disclaimer, I have not kept up with Brake Tech.

The rear brake shoes (material) have been the same for over 20 years!

AND with the higher temp working shoes, Rear brake Ventilation

WAS absolutely Necessary, to keep the brake Drums from Cracking!

I have been using Carbotech Kelated Metallic shoes.

If you are serious about your Brakes, get the right lining material first.

IF that does not work out, change your brakes.

However, consider the Cost of the Better Friction pads before settling on

a type of caliper.

Prices can very a BUNCH for the same Friction material for different cars.

DW
Are these pads made for the Alpine specific, or are they ordered for fitting a different application like Capri etc... thanks
 
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