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Now I'm in for it.

Brian, You can make it as short or as long as you need but you don't want too much angularity on the Ujoints.
 
Yes, kinking the ujoints is what I was concerned about. I think I will pull the column back out later today and see how much DD shaft I can lose.

I have a shallower 6 bolt adapter, but it is so shallow the center shaft and nut contacts the back of the horn button when I try to use it.
 
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I have already routed out the fire wall enough to get the column shaft through. I dont want to go so far forward that I bind up the u joints. I will let you know how it goes. Does anyone know, can I cut off any of the DD shaft without compromising anything?
I would think you could shorten the shaft.
You only need enough engagement into the length of the u joint. By the way I made a saddle for the column and bolted it to the fire wall and used to hose clamps to secure rather than the column mount that the mfgs want you to use. If you have a intermediate shaft you could shorten that also/ make another if you have to do that Speedway Motors is my go to for joints.
 
If I can't get it short enough by trimming the output shaft and forcing things forward, I will look at shortening the intermediate shaft, or maybe buying a new shorter one.
 
Fixed. I was able to take 2" out of the intermediate rod and an inch out of the DD shaft. I put the driver seat back in the car, and I think I am good to go. I put the dash back in temporarily to make sure things looked ok. I think I got it. As long a Joel does not look at my welding.20240101_170707.jpg
 
Sure. The angle didn't turn out too bad. I know the engine was in with the old steering layout, this set up has pushed the intermediate rod a little more outboard, and that should provide better clearance for the headers.

20240101_173429.jpg
 
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I am really glad I was able to cheat a little distance out of this layout. The way it was yesterday, I was going to have the wheel right on my chest. I had almost 3 inches of 2" column tube sticking out beyond the face of the dash. Now it is only about 1/2" which I think will work well.
 
Fixed. I was able to take 2" out of the intermediate rod and an inch out of the DD shaft. I put the driver seat back in the car, and I think I am good to go. I put the dash back in temporarily to make sure things looked ok. I think I got it. As long a Joel does not look at my welding.View attachment 30606
As long as you got good penetration.
 
It looks like we were working on the same thing today. I made a new upper steering bracket based on the original that also supports the dash. Tomorrow I will be cutting about 1.5" from the column. I have the original Series II steering box. alpine upper bracket.jpg
 
I mounted the steering wheel on the new column today, and then I just had to throw the dash board back in the car to see how they look together. I think they are going to be great. The work I did last week shortening up the column has resulted in about as good a driving position as someone my size can expect in an Alpine.20240106_144743.jpg
 
So my wife is out of town this week. I did a little work on the sunbeam yesterday after work. I bet I had not touched the car in three months. My wife retired at the first of the year and this gives her a lot of time to think up projects for me to work on that don't have anything to do with the Alpine. Anyway, I still have a leak at one of my brake line fittings. I didnt do a very good job making the flare at that fitting, so I think I will end up having to have another go at it. I do now have brake fluid freely flowing to all four brake calipers, so some progress. The last time I worked on them, I wasn't getting any flow to the front lines.
 
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