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Now I'm in for it.

There are also options to mount everything under the dash and the reservoir anywhere you like.

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I resolved my wheel stud issue today. After much searching, I was able to lay my hands on eight of the longer studs I needed. I banged the old ones out with a hammer and torqued20230401_135908.jpgthe new ones in using a cool little beveled bearing intended for the job. Here you can see the difference between the short and longer studs.

Here you can see the stud extends all the way through an open ended lug nut. It only had a couple threads engaged with the shorter studs. That could have been a disaster.20230401_140239.jpg
 
Once I got the wheels back on, I jacked up the rear end to get all four wheels on the cribbing. I will now get the brake lines and ebrake cables finished up while the car is up in the air.
 
So Work and spring chores have kept me from doing anything with the car for a month. I finished up the heat/sound insulation on the package shelf this afternoon. Is there any reason to install more up the back of the cockpit tub? I didnt think so, but thought I would ask.20230507_151903.jpg
 
I have working parking brakes. Now I need to fab some hard lines for the rear brakes. Then I should be ready to get the car down off the cribbing and see about getting the engine and trans back in. Of course work is taking me out of town again for the upcoming week. 20230513_130439.jpg
 
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Summer is flying by and I still don't have those brake lines done. It seems very unlikely I will be driving the car this summer.
 
So I finished up the hard brake lines under the rear of the car. I bled the rears first, and that went fine. I opened the nipple on one of the front calipers and my wife pumped the brake peddle and nothing showed up. I took the brake line loose at the master cylinder, more pumping but no fluid at the port for the front left caliper. Anyone know short of buying a new master cylinder what the fix is? BTW, this is a trw master cylinder from a 79 mgb. Two ports for the front brakes, and one for the back.

In other activity, I made up a new battery cable and ran it from the battery box to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid.
 
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I spent the afternoon working on my car. I am installing a new tilt steering column. The shaft is 2", and the MG column I am replacing was 1.5". I fabed a bracket attached to the firewall to hold a 2" swivel flange. I cut the original drop down bracket and will weld on a piece of steel to mount a new 2" collar for the wheel end of the column. This should be a huge improvement in both safety and comfort.
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So a little more modification was required. I forgot about the bracket that hangs off the bottom of the drop bracket that holds up the pad at the bottom of the dash. I had to cut out about an inch of that bracket and weld it back up to maintain the same overall length. Now a little paint and tomorrow, I should be able to bolt in the new column.
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So I put the brackets all together and mounted the new column. I am a little worried I have ordered a column that is a little too long. I didnt take into account the length of the adapter that mounts the 6 bolt wheel to column. I have not mounted the wheel yet, but I put the drivers seat in place, and it seems a little close.. My first thought is to get a shorter splined shaft between the column output shaft and the input shaft on the rack.

Always something.
 
As I recall you are very tall. Keep in mind that the closer the wheel is to your chest, the more room for your knees. Obviously it is possible to take it too far.
TR
 
Before I do anything else, I will mount the wheel and check the fit, but I think I will need to make some changes to move things forward.
 
Before I do anything else, I will mount the wheel and check the fit, but I think I will need to make some changes to move things forward.
I had that problem you speak of (ADAPTOR) I just shoved the hole column forward. mad the notch wider as I don't use the lower bolster!
 
I had that problem you speak of (ADAPTOR) I just shoved the hole column forward. mad the notch wider as I don't use the lower bolster!
I have already routed out the fire wall enough to get the column shaft through. I dont want to go so far forward that I bind up the u joints. I will let you know how it goes. Does anyone know, can I cut off any of the DD shaft without compromising anything?
 
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