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Mazda Engine Swap

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Robert, it appears there is a rod going from the Heim joint to the cross bolt on the stock shifter. What is it and what function does it have?

Also, on the stock shifter, what are your dimensions from the center of ball to center of cross bolt? I'm still having a mind tussle with that dimension on my set up. I know that in theory, any value greater than zero will work, but working forces approach infinity, at least close enough to infinity for my purposes. I'm still in search of a good working minimum.

Bill
 

robertf

Donation Time
center of the ball to the center of the cross bolt will be the minimum distance to clear the linkage. There is a slight mechanical advantage in that current drawing since the shiter is higher. This will be done for tunnel clearance. Most of the force will be applied to the cross bolt for the new shifter. I don't have final measurments, but I'm guessing a multiplication of around 4. Its a 7/16" bolt and .120 mild steel. I could sit down and do the calculations, but doing some quick mental estimations and assuming no more than 100# of force is applied to the shifter the biggest moment that bolt will see is 35ft lbs. I might be way off, but I dont see it being a problem. It should at least hold up to whatever forces the stock shifter could. Keep in mind everthing is held together inside the shifter housing by a .100" roll pin. That should still be the weak point.

I'm not sure what rod you are referring to. Its got the linkage going from the new shifter to the stock shifter, then the new shifter had a pivot that goes through the spherical bearing. Only 1 spherical bearing is used, I'm planning on using just brass bushing inserts in between the shifters and linkage, but I might look for an inexpensive bearing that has a common ID and OD that can support radial and axial loads
 

robertf

Donation Time
Ran out of mig wire on the header so moved over to the coolant and intake. Going over to a friends later to use his welder to do up the aluminum parts.



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robertf

Donation Time
well everything in the rack at the hardware store said 6011 except the tubing I bought, and it was definately not 6011. Probably 2014 or something not weldable. Rather than track down some 6011 and redo it, I'm going to use some of those hose clamps with the tabs like the factory heater hose does on the 1725. Problem is I don't know what they are called or where to buy them. Anyone know? Its the metal band that goes around hose and each end of the band has a hole in it to bolt it and support it to something. Going to build some stand offs that bolt to the engine to support the long section of tubes used in the coolant system.

The intake is welded, didn't get any pics of it (mostly because my aluminum TIG skills are junk) but the duct snakes through the opening in the grill support and goes parallel to the grill with a little K&N filter at the end.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
well everything in the rack at the hardware store said 6011 except the tubing I bought, and it was definately not 6011. Probably 2014 or something not weldable. Rather than track down some 6011 and redo it, I'm going to use some of those hose clamps with the tabs like the factory heater hose does on the 1725. Problem is I don't know what they are called or where to buy them. Anyone know? Its the metal band that goes around hose and each end of the band has a hole in it to bolt it and support it to something. Going to build some stand offs that bolt to the engine to support the long section of tubes used in the coolant system.
What are you talking about?

Bill
 

lobo1625

Donation Time
Looking good! I'm doing the same conversion right now to a 67 Alpine. What was did you do for the radiator on the Alpine? The inlet/outlet are on the opposite sides from the Miata engine?
 

lobo1625

Donation Time
Not as far along as I'd like! I've got the engine mounted and the exhaust header to a point where I could start the engine. I've got most of the Miata wiring harness thinned down to a point where I could hook it up and see what happens. The cooling system is my major hangup, as I don't want to get too much further without being able to start the engine. Next time you're in North Texas, you're more than welcome to stop over for a look. With the weather warming up (aside from the snow this weekend) I'll be able to get alot more done.
 

robertf

Donation Time
do you have any pictures of the motor mounts? I'm not real happy with the way mine turned out, but there just isn't much room to work with.
 

lobo1625

Donation Time
I'll have to check my camera. I may. I used the stock rubber motor mounts from a Miata for my mounting. I cut the mounts off the front end of the alpine completly and used 3/8" plate (about 10" long) extending back towards the firewall. I cut holes in it so the stock mounts would drop in just like a Miata. As far as the mounts that bolt to the engine, I ditched the formed sheetmetal pieces and made my own using holes further forward on the engine. This gave me lots of room for the exhaust and steering arms (although I can't use the intake brace now) I'll check my camera this evening to see if I have any pictures, but they're not flattering by any means. Trying to get everything working and in position before I make it all pretty.
 

robertf

Donation Time
I had to ditch the intake brace too. I think I can form a steel tube with flattened ends to fit. Thats low on the priority list right now.

were you able to fit the air flow sensor?

I went speed density and routed the intake through the opening on the passenger side of the grill where the horn went.
 

lobo1625

Donation Time
It looks like i'll have room to put the airflow sensor (Stock) on the drivers side above the exhaust. I'm trying to re-use as much of the miata as I can since i'm using the Miata computer and wiring harness. I won't be able to use the stock airbox, I don't think but i'll have to use a cone filter or fashion my own fiberglass box.
 

robertf

Donation Time
started planning out the wiring. Need to finalize a few more measurements before I can print a nailboard and assemble the harness, but the car is still 200 miles away. I think I'm going to switch to a bosch BIM200 ignition module instead of the stock miata module. I can't find a decent connector for the miata, they are all cracked and it looks like tyco discontinued it.

here's a general idea of the route

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Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Geez, you sure know how to make a geezer feel inadequate. I feel good when I manage to post a couple of photos.

Bill
 

Callasports

Donation Time
Well, looks like Santa Claus has brought me an early Xmas gift on this forum! I joined in May after my SV found me - (wasn't really looking for one, but I'm very glad it worked out) and my last 5 garage projects have been Miatas. You don't know how happy I am seeing the two combined.

I've read this 10 page post and look forward to seeing the updates on your car, Robert. Your talents, and they're NOT imaginary, are rather spectacular. Having a 1.6L Mazda motor sitting in storage and reading about your swap has gotten me fired up.

You may want to consider fabbing up a kit for the Miata-swap and marketing them to the skills-challenged members of this community;).
 
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