Hood will not open!

[65sunbeam]

never saw one fail like that. Don't buy the one on eBay that is listed for sale-it is missing the safety catch!

 

[bernd_st]

Me neither. Pretty weird that the pin fell out. The missing safety catch isn't such a big issue on the Alpine since the hood won't open anyway by airstream...

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Me neither. Pretty weird that the pin fell out. The missing safety catch isn't such a big issue on the Alpine since the hood won't open anyway by airstream...

I had one that was loose years ago mechanic at the shop welded it for me

 

[woodybap]

Woody I am really pleased for you well done. Was it the vertical pin that had come out of the lever arm (where the hole is visible)?

Yes. I found the pin and a cotter pin in the latch well. Not sure what the part is supposed to look like or what to order to replace it.

 

[woodybap]

I recently saw a friends Alpine that had been jerry-rigged. It had the rod type pull but the "slider" as I call it ( See Drawing Item 91) was bent and the spot welds had come loose, a PO had drilled a small hole and then screwed the slider back together with the screw feed from the bottom upward. The nut was on top and very loose. A s matter of fact was about to fall off which then would have allowed the screw to fall out from the bottom.... Guess what would have then become a grand surprise to the owner. Same thing as we are discussing here

I believe it is totally unnecessary to have a bunch of wires in reserve.

If you have an early series Alpine the rod will be sufficient, just keep it well lubricated and maintained.

However, should you be so fortunate as to own a SV Alpine wire release, the Miracle of Chrysler, then it is highly recommended you obtain the "Rod" style release. Or perhaps add a couple of the extra precautions mentioned here.....

Having watch an Alpine catch fire and burn because the Bonnet could not be opened is disheartening.

That is the reason I have the Bonnet release rod for "all" my Alpines.

1st PIC the connections under the bonnet - note the cotter pin
2nd PIC the nuts utilized. In this PIC the jam nut is OK But the nut inside the "Slider" is a Hex..... not the SQUARE NUT that should be there!!!

The slider is formed very tightly around the square nut to keep it from turning.

3rd PIC Is the Slider as finish laser cut and formed with the Square nut.
4th PIC Is the finished product.

I will not say it "can't happen" but I see no need what-so-ever for a wire.

An after thought, a number of years ago I found a pamphlet I believe it came from the UK SAOC, entitled, "THE ALPINE GUIDE" that is most valuable to minor details that included the Bonnet adjustment

Where can I find that drawing? I would like to order the pin assembly to replace the one that broke.

 

[65beam]

Where can I find that drawing? I would like to order the pin assembly to replace the one that broke.

I've never seen any of the Sunbeam parts suppliers selling new hood latches or parts for the latch. Your best and only solution is to buy a used one and check the weld for the pin. Lack of lubrication is one of the common problems with the latch.

 

[DanR]

Where can I find that drawing? I would like to order the pin assembly to replace the one that broke.

Woody, As 65beam has stated, these parts or no longer available in most cases, so, as suggested find a good used part or perhaps fabricate a replacement as lots of us do.

Have you removed the "latch" assembly from your Alpine? If you have and can please post a couple pictures of it from several angles and maybe I (we) can tell if it is reparable.

 

[Toyanvil]

If it was me, I would drill the hole to clean it up and install a clevis pin from the bottom and weld it in from the bottom. This is how mine is set-up.

 

[DanR]

Neat-O as usual....

 

[loose_electron]

One of the interesting aspects of car restorations, especially where replacements don't exist anymore, is the clever ways people find to redo, rework, replace, redesign thing.

Toyanvil - very nice redesign.

If it was me, I would drill the hole to clean it up and install a clevis pin from the bottom and weld it in from the bottom. This is how mine is set-up.

 

[puff4]

I like the use of the rose joint. Far better than the clevis.

 

[DanR]

The reason I had the original "slider" laser cut and offer to members is that it is a good design and will function without failure in and of its self.

 

[Jimjordan2]

Dan, looks good, but I'm unclear as to the need of the "slider" slot. What is the slider slot doing for the function of release?
Just being curious. I have already adapted my Series V to the hard rod with the slider, but again, why?
Thanks

 

[DanR]

Best I can tell in when the plunger enters the latch there is some movement?

If you take your finger and put pressure on the latch lock mechanism that catches the plunger (item 84 ?) in the drawing, it moves back allowing the plunger to seat. If the "slider" is not utilized it will tend to push the Bonnet release rod back toward the dash. At least that is what I have observed. The Slider is a necessary part of the puzzle Rootes Engineers designed. The key to all of this discussion is to properly maintain your ALpine

 

[Jimjordan2]

OK, thank you, that actually makes a bit of sense. Yeah, I can see that. And I will emphasize your thought; a little grease in those areas (after cleaning the old crud) sure would go a long way towards maintaining these parts.