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Hard Top Side Window Buttons

puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
Hi, folks -

With Warren's generous help, I'm in the midst of creating CAD files for the two different buttons used to hold the latches onto the side windows for Alpine SIII-SV & Tiger hard tops. I believe there are two types - a smaller one and a later larger one. I have samples that Warren sent me, but the larger/later one doesn't have a threaded centre - I'm thinking it must be a repro or something. Anyway, I don't seem to have a later one in my stocks. Can someone please locate one and get me the internal screw dimensions? I need the screw size, thread pitch, and threaded hole depth. (The screw on the smaller one is #10-32, if that helps.)

Thanks!

Here is what I've drawn so far...

Sunbeam Alpine Hardtop Window Nut - Small - View 2.jpgSunbeam Alpine Hardtop Window Nut - Small - View 1.jpgSunbeam Alpine Hardtop Window Nut - Large - View 2.jpgSunbeam Alpine Hardtop Window Nut - Large - View 1.jpg
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
Kevin I had a bunch made.. large and small and the rubbers just before COVID.
Bob who made them passed away .. but I still have them. I had taken orders for them but when the world shut down all went on the back burner and I couldn't access them.

If people need them and the rubbers I have them
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
I had a bunch made about ten years ago out of stainless steel. Just made another order for 100 more Monday morning.

If I knew others were interested in fab'n them I would have passed on having more made. Looks like there will be plenty available soon,

DanR
 
Warren

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
It's tough to remember everything. I was really thinking about the B post wide and narrow parts but the buttons were on the move on pile. The hood pull was in that pile as well...
One of those in Delrin would be awesome..
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
I had a few knobs printed. Some with letters (white) and some w/o letters. They were OK but not the best quality.
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
DanR said:
I had a few knobs printed. Some with letters (white) and some w/o letters. They were OK but not the best quality.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm thinking that the best replacement may be finding a decent original and then using OoMoo to cast it in silicone and producing new ones in cast plastic or even fiber-reinforced polymer.
 
Warren

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
After checking on the results of guys who made MK2 grills , fiberglass AC housings it was quickly learned how fickle owners can be. One fellow held at arms length a air cleaner housing and claimed its weight was different than his original. He must've been having a flash back on his misspent youth buying 10 dollar bags of weed.
Then there's Chester Bailey's repop pie wheels that would not sell. Even though the bead was designed for tubeless tires. The spoke to wheel was visibly not original so those were white elephants mostly.

Parts gotta be dead on if they are meant to pass for stock.
How about a few hundred on a MK2 alternator from Dead Nuts On , Dale's vendor for an Autolite stamped unit or 75 for a clean one.

Kevin's service is to make things available. I've sent my parts to others. and we offered the AC project to a Tiger club but they refused it saying "we don't believe you can do it... and the club doesn't need any money." Oops for that club..
Other parts were shared the reduced diameter Tiger pump pulley was first fabbed by a fellow named Woolridge in Ohio as I recall. He was not a real customer service type and didn't want to be selling them. I sent mine on to Hoghead who made more. I just want to see needed parts made , their availability be made known. The last point is I got tired of selling and sold on the last 20 AC housings to Rick at SS. Now he's sold out and guys can get back to gouging those in need on eBay...

There's no good reason why a Jaguar/Tiger Casco lighter should be priced at over 100 bucks or miss represented by a guy as having the " Correct knob." Plus if something is in OZ possibly the remainder should be sent on to S.S.

Lastly I'd like to see the B post clamps and other chromed bits done in stainless.
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
DanR said:
puff, hope you can follow thru with your idea....
Click to expand...
Gotta find a decent original first! I think there were two versions... with and without the word "BONNET". If I did create a replacement, which would be better to go with? I'm probably not gonna do both.
 
V

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
puff4 said:
Gotta find a decent original first! I think there were two versions... with and without the word "BONNET". If I did create a replacement, which would be better to go with? I'm probably not gonna do both.
Click to expand...
Gimme a call. Maybe we can work something out.
 
Warren

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
I sent off a later version of the hood pull it had a slightly cracked shaft section.
A large number of cars got the hood pull with the cable and the bonnet marking pulled and lost as the hard rod was more reliable than the cable. Do you think the the cast in bonnet would be able to be reproduced as original or would it be a vinyl cling like the heater markings.
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
puff4 said:
there were two versions... with and without the word "BONNET".
Click to expand...
I have both versions. They are also good to very good condition considering their age. Just not ready to remove from the rods because of the potential damage. Might find another in my "Goodies" that can be utilized as a "Copy".....
 
Warren

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
It would be interesting to know the best way to get those stupid little steel roll pins out. I would bet that they rust themselves in there and the only way to get them out would be to soak them in a rust remover like a Evaporust and then possibly drive out the roll pin.
all the ones I've messed with are a rust welded mess and don't want to come apart.
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
DanR said:
I have both versions. They are also good to very good condition considering their age. Just not ready to remove from the rods because of the potential damage. Might find another in my "Goodies" that can be utilized as a "Copy".....
Click to expand...
There’s no need to remove the rods to make a mold of the handle. I would think one would cast the new handles as a solid piece, then drill the holes. It would be difficult to get a good release from the mold if you try to cast a straight-sided hole.
 
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