Fuel Tees for Strombergs

[Ken Ellis]

There have been a couple of conversations regarding fuel distribution for Strombergs -- specifically the tee that's nestled between them.

I've tried the white nylon part, with the aluminum hose 'barb', but it really didn't seem like it was made for that purpose. OD too big (for hose), ID too small, arms too long, and too inflexible to clamp. I think the "right" way to install is to trim to length, boil it to soften the plastic, then assemble between the carbs. Mine leaked like a sieve, and hose clamps couldn't draw it down. Then tried hose covering the joints, but that's where the large OD was a problem. The dimensions are easy to change with reasonable effort, but it still wasn't right for the task. (Unless, of course, I was doing it wrong.)

I ended up using a brass fitting, with the diameter of the 'arms' turned down in the lathe, and shortened, with short hose sections secured by one hose clamps bridging each joint... so two total clamps. This has proved robust and leak-free... much more so than the plastic vacuum tee and ty-wraps that was on the car when I got it.

While searching for parts for my son's car this morning, I ran across two plastic tees that look to be good substitutes. They are both used in BMW fuel systems -- one on cars, and one on motorcycles. I've not used either personally, but they seem appropriate for the task. They're both listed as fuel line tees, and the photo shows a pretty thick cross-section. Might be worth a try if you're looking, and they're cheap even for Alpine parts, much less BMW.

Here are some photos of the two BMW parts, and my brass install.
(Although ultimately, the need for the tee went away with the arrival of the Weber...)

 

[RootesRooter]

The original plastic T fits and works fine - as long as your Strombergs are in good shape. On many sets I've come across, the inlet pipes have already been sawed off to install hoses. If they're sawed off too short, the T can leak. Also, many times the carbs are tightened down incorrectly and are out of alignment. This can allow leaking and puts extra stress on the T, leading to premature failure.

The only time I've had trouble with a T, it was from accidentally pulling out the barbed metal inlet pipe from the T. I shoved it back in snuggly, thinking no-harm-no-foul, but the barbs had dislodged a large number of plastic bits, which eventually clogged the float bowl inlet valves and made for an all-day adventure on a 175-mile trip.

 

[Ken Ellis]

That's a good point -- I'm not even sure how long they should be.
I think part of that equation is the tempting shortcut of fixing the problem without removing one of the carbs, and disturbing the coupling mechanism and its registration with the other carb.

It would be great if there was a compression T assembly that would sneak in-between the pipes, while allowing enough room for the compression glands and nuts... while also being the right size for the carb inlet pipes.

Hmmm....

 

[bohemianway]

I need to resurrect this thread on Tees

So I was getting ready to head out to a pre-1908 new london to new brighton run that I promised to let my bosses wife drive the Alpine when smoke came out from the hood. I shut it down and opened the hood to find fuel spraying all over the exhaust from the fuel tee (SV). I finally juryrigged a loop of fuel lines to get around removing the carbs. Good as a temporary fix but something more permanent is needed.

Does anyone have a simple solution?

Has anyone removed the inlet tubes to the carbs and replaced them with elbows (pressed in or threaded)? (what were the originals)?

Anyway, the car is nearly original and slowly drifting away by replacement parts (like non-lucas alternator) and I would like to not jump into the "Weber" replacement.

Thank you,
Charles

 

[hartmandm]

I have a similar conundrum to solve with my SV fuel tee. I believe the tee was replaced around 25 years ago with the nylon part. That part developed cracks and was dumping fuel on the exhaust manifold. Luckily I didn't have a fire. I replaced the failed tee with the nylon replacement part from Sunbeam Specialties. It seemed to provide a tight seal initially. Maybe a month after installation I was tuning the Stromberg carbs and noticed some fuel leakage from the tee. I put clamps onto the nylon and that seemed to stop the leaks again. However, I don't think it will last long. The nipples look original (i.e. not cut) and they are in nice shape.

So I'm looking for an alternative setup.

I believe the space between the fuel nipples is only 7/16". The fuel hose I.D. is 1/4", so that leaves a maximum theoretical space of 3/32" on either side of the supply line for clamping if I keep a "T" configuration. It seems like only a single "T" shaped piece of rubber would actually work with the nipples as they are. I haven't found any such beast so far.

I have replacement fuel nipples. Should I consider bending these nipples to rig up more of a "Y" or "U" shaped setup?

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[mattinoz]

has anyone tried this fuel tee available on ebay? It's listed as being for stromberg carbs to suit several applications including Alpines

http://www.ebay.com.au item 271321538943

 

[sunbeam74]

One option, is moving the rear carb to the front and the front carb to the rear - of course switching throttle shafts. This moves the inputs for the bowls to the outside. Choke gets a bit funny but can hooked up with some mods..

However, I don't mind the T-fitting... so, if you do have a problem with the float bowl tubes being cut off shorter due to previous mods these damaged pieces can be removed fairly easy and replaced with proper lengths of material. Just stick a rod into the shortened/damaged tube and clamp the tube in a vise... then slowly twist the carb while pulling out. The rod simply keeps the tube from crushing. Then press in a new replacement tube.

Steve

 

[hartmandm]

has anyone tried this fuel tee available on ebay? It's listed as being for stromberg carbs to suit several applications including Alpines

http://www.ebay.com.au item 271321538943

That looks like the part I received from Sunbeam Specialties, though the part I received had each nylon arm cut to make them shorter.

http://mhartman.net/photos/Sunbeam/IMG_3211_gas_line_T_fitting.JPG

Mike

 

[65beam]

tees

measure the size of the tubes and go to your local auto parts and buy a brass T fitting with compression fittings of the size needed to fit the tubes. use a piece of tubing the same diameter of the tubes on the carbs to secure with a compression fitting for fitting a rubber fuel hose. this should give you a leak proof fuel TEE with the look of the plastic piece but in brass. I have several of this type that I bought from tiger tom over the years.

 

[George Coleman]

The brass T fix is the best thing to do!!

 

[RootesRooter]

I had used the nylon T's for decades without problems, but one I bot three years ago recently split. I wonder if the current material used is too hard? The original ones seemed to fit the same but didn't require hose clamps. When I bot that last one, I thought the clamps included were only for use on carbs with cut tubes, but it leaked immediately without clamps - on full-length tubes.

 

[Thor 1211]

Brass t

I bought 2 of the nylon tees and both developed splits and leaks. In a fit, I found a brass 1/4" t in my household plumbing stuff and after a little cutting down to fit between the carbs, attached the standard plumbing olives and compression nuts. Works fine. I had to drill the T and remove the carbs to install it but it ain't going nowhere and hasn't leaked a drop. Looks good, too.

 

[hartmandm]

I have researched the brass tees available and have not found any that are small enough to fit between the carburetors without shortening the tee. If you have any references to specific parts that will work without modification, please let me know.

FYI - the fuel nipples are 1/4 inch diameter tubes and the space between carb frames is 1.63". The smallest tee I have found is 1.81" long.

My current plan is to take a brass union with compression nuts, which has a length of around 1.4", and then drill a 1/4" hole in the middle, and then solder in the supply tube into the drilled hole. If anything sounds wrong with that approach, please let me know. I will post how it comes out.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Thor 1211]

Fuel T

Mike:

Any T is too long and I don't think any amount of fiddling is going to permit you to put it between the carbs. It will be too long for the space between the carbs without grinding down the brass and drilling out through the center of the T to accept the fuel nipples. I also flared the inside of the T to accept the olives. You have measured the distance between the carb bodies while installed and you have to maintain that distance when you are fitting the T. Slide on the olives and put the compression nuts in place but don't tighten them down till everything is installed. I also used a piece of 1/4" brake line for the supply tube, no modification necessary there, put a little bend in it to meet up with the fuel line from the pump and hooked them up with 3 or 4 inch piece of rubber fuel line. Could send you a picture if you like.

 

[Alpine 1789]

It doesn't look great, but you can just use a standard T with rubber fuel line and cross the lines over to the opposite side. So, the right side of the T goes to the left carb and vice versa. Coming out of the carb, the two lines have to go one over the other, but it works. A handful of hose clamps and you are done.

 

[agmason54]

Jim is right.l just did the same thing for the simple reason that if the T fails or the brass compression fitting leaks it would be no fun to remove the carbs to replace them in BF Egypt.l bought a nice brass fitting at Home Depot and put the T in the center of both carbs on the top side of the engine.l fit the T and lines inasclose as l could and ground a notch inthe plate on number one carb to let the line lay nice.lt looked so neat l took a picture but l can not show it since l have used my allotted amount of picture space.I despise all Stromberg carbs but they took me outwest on a new SV and back despite being against my religion.Each O ring leaked.l was amazed NAPA fixed me up
RedCar the WhiteGuy (in a blue SV)

 

[Tom H]

Here's a picture of Al's suggested way to tee up the stromberg fuel lines. Note that this picture is taken from the opposite side of the car, so the input to the tee is coming from over the valve cover. And note that the lines from the tee go around the body of each carb and then into the adjacent carb. My SV/ Stroms had a similar setup with flexible hoses after the tee, but the Tee was located in the normal location and the hoses made very tight loops back to the carbs. I think the arrangement in this photo looks a lot neater.

Tom

 

[Thor 1211]

fuel t

Well, mine looks better.

 

[Tom H]

Thor, Yup it looks great! Probably woth the effort for many here. But it does require some machining and it requires removing the carbs to install, remove, or repair any leaking. As for me, I'm glad I switched to a Weber.

Tom

 

[Thor 1211]

Fuel T

Tom, I agree that installation is a PITA and removal would be even worse, but I gambled that the carbs are good and tight to the manifold and have no reason to move around independently to loosen things up. It's been the better part of a year now with no leakage. I tried the Al Mason set up with loops of rubber around the carbs and all I did was kink the line at the fuel nipples and I didn't want to shorten or bend the nipples. Anyway all that rubber is just looking for a place to split. The Weber is next - soon, very soon.