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Early series hard top rear window thickness
- Thread starter socorob
- Start date
RootesRacer
Donation Time
My window bought from SS appears to be 1/8 (too thick for 1/16).
socorob
Donation Time
Thanks but I have one in my hardtop that's cloudy, glued, wired, and weather stripped in, then glued in some more. It doesn't seem to be a perfect fit but close enough that I think I could use it as a template for a new one. I found another place local that sells polycarbonate that's about 2 blocks from the 1st place I found and they are 60% less expensive. Anyone have a huge oven?
tylerite3124
Platinum Level Sponsor
Early Series Alpine Hardtop Rear Window
I found a company in California that claims to have made hardtop rear window replacements for the early Series Alpine. They told me that they would make a copy for $220.00 plus shipping. Here is their information if anyone is interested:
Aircraft Windshield Company
10871 Kyle Street
Los Alamitos, CA 90720
www.aircraftwindshield.com
562.430.8108
The name of the person I spoke with was Jesica.
Rick
I found a company in California that claims to have made hardtop rear window replacements for the early Series Alpine. They told me that they would make a copy for $220.00 plus shipping. Here is their information if anyone is interested:
Aircraft Windshield Company
10871 Kyle Street
Los Alamitos, CA 90720
www.aircraftwindshield.com
562.430.8108
The name of the person I spoke with was Jesica.
Rick
socorob
Donation Time
Thanks. How did you manage to find that out? I wonder how the fit would be? One of the normal suppliers said wherever they were gettin them from that the mold got off and they didn't fit right anymore so they stopped getting them. I would hate to spend that much plus shipping to find out it won't fit right after.
bulldurham
Platinum Level Sponsor
I have been unable to find the seal for trim in the early series. Would be interested though.
Barry Rechtorov
Donation Time
Series II rear window
I was very happy that when I got my Series II it had an original hardtop with a good rear window. However, when I towed it to DMV for them to do their verification thing the rear window ended up all crackled. If anyone finds someone that can duplicate the rear window I would be interested.
I was very happy that when I got my Series II it had an original hardtop with a good rear window. However, when I towed it to DMV for them to do their verification thing the rear window ended up all crackled. If anyone finds someone that can duplicate the rear window I would be interested.
socorob
Donation Time
I'll make a jig and try to bend one myself if something else doesn't come along by the time I get started on the top. I have 2 other Sunbeam projects to complete, then I'll move onto the top. Is lexan or plexiglas better to use? Lexan is much stronger, but plexiglas is cheaper, supposedly doesn't yellow like lexan is supposed to do and is supposed to be able to wet sand out scratches which supposedly you cant do with lexan.
Chuck Ingram
Donation Time
Robbie
I don't know if I would wet sand even with 2200 grit.You can polish the plexiglass using a cutting polishing pad and a 1400 RPM polisher or less but no higher with a mild cleaning compound.Follow up with a fine cleaning compound.If the mild does not do it then use the heavier rated compound then the medium and then the fine.My side windows in the Lister are plexiglass.They are in need to be done once more.Be sure to cover up as it does sort of spray a lot.
I don't know if I would wet sand even with 2200 grit.You can polish the plexiglass using a cutting polishing pad and a 1400 RPM polisher or less but no higher with a mild cleaning compound.Follow up with a fine cleaning compound.If the mild does not do it then use the heavier rated compound then the medium and then the fine.My side windows in the Lister are plexiglass.They are in need to be done once more.Be sure to cover up as it does sort of spray a lot.
DanR
Diamond Level Sponsor
I found a place that sounds ineresting:
Laminated safety glass for factory metal hardtop. Fits 1963,4,5,6,7 type 3,4,5 Alpine/Tiger metal hardtops as in pictures. This can be made in clear, green tint and custom tints(smoke,bronze, amber, etc). In stock 1 clear glass all others made to order 1-2 weeks to make. Let me know what you need and I will offer it on e-bay. The one in stock is made from 2mm glass, 30 thousandth pvb laminate, 2mm glass. this is AS II laminated safety glass. Other colors and tints may vary in thickness of glass but it's all laminated safety glass. This will ship Fedex or UPS e-bay ship quote hasn't always been correct so this is being listed as pick up only. Any questions e-mail or call. Also coming Alpine/ Tiger Stationary vents, door glasses and hardtop 1/4 glasses.
LEE FESTICH
ALAN AUTO GLASS
2121 KENMERE ST.
BURBANK, CA. 91504
818-845-7300 office 818-464-5909 cel
AAAGLASSS(at)AOL.COM
AND
in TECH TIPS:
Hardtop Rear Window Installation
March 27, 2009 in Body,Tech Tips by Curt Hoffman Originally printed 8/88
For those of you installing a new rear window, particularly if you are installing a glass rear window, you may have wondered ? do I put the rubber molding on the glass and then fit to the top or put the molding on the top and fit in the glass? The answer is to put the rubber on the glass first. A slick trick to then get the rubber all the way around the top is as follows:
1. Install the rubber molding on the glass with the thick part to the inside. The flatter side goes to the outside and will accept the chrome trim as a last step.
2. Take a long loop of insulated 14 gauge multi-strand wire (it probably does not have to be exactly 14 gauge, but that is what I had and it was a good thickness to use), and slip it into the slit that the top flange will ultimately go into. The wire should be long enough so that it goes all the way around the glass. The two ends should meet and come out at the bottom of the glass with enough to spare so that you can grab onto each end.
3. Spray some silicone lubricant into the slit over the wire to make the wire slide easier and protect the rubber from tearing.
4. Place your hardtop on your living room rug, with the top up and the front edge down on the carpet. This allows you to crawl under the back edge on your back and look up through the rear hole soon to be filled with glass.
5. Have your next-door neighbor pick up the glass – with rubber molding installed and wire in the slot – and place it in the hole as evenly as possible. The rubber molding will be sitting on top of the flange that will need to enter the slit currently being occupied by the wire.
6. Have your neighbor press down on the glass with enough force to be serious but not enough to break the glass and crush your face.
7. With the pressure coming down on the glass, you should begin to slowly pull the wires out of the slot. As you pull the wires out, the rubber molding lip will be forced up and over the flange on the hardtop. Once you are all the way around the glass, the rubber will be completely seated on the flange.
8. Install the chrome trim on the outside and you are done.
I tried, initially, to use a small screwdriver to work the rubber over the flange. That way did not work at all. The above trick took only about 10 minutes total, and I had a completed window. With the proper cut Plexiglass it would probably be even easier.
The Nova windshield I used had just enough difference in curvature that the last foot of wire pull was a little tough. The window seated suddenly, though, and poof I was done. I used the same technique to get the rubber molding on the front of the hardtop, which also would have been a little tricky without the wire.
Tagged as: Body, glass, hardtop, installation, molding, plexiglass, sunbeam, window
Laminated safety glass for factory metal hardtop. Fits 1963,4,5,6,7 type 3,4,5 Alpine/Tiger metal hardtops as in pictures. This can be made in clear, green tint and custom tints(smoke,bronze, amber, etc). In stock 1 clear glass all others made to order 1-2 weeks to make. Let me know what you need and I will offer it on e-bay. The one in stock is made from 2mm glass, 30 thousandth pvb laminate, 2mm glass. this is AS II laminated safety glass. Other colors and tints may vary in thickness of glass but it's all laminated safety glass. This will ship Fedex or UPS e-bay ship quote hasn't always been correct so this is being listed as pick up only. Any questions e-mail or call. Also coming Alpine/ Tiger Stationary vents, door glasses and hardtop 1/4 glasses.
LEE FESTICH
ALAN AUTO GLASS
2121 KENMERE ST.
BURBANK, CA. 91504
818-845-7300 office 818-464-5909 cel
AAAGLASSS(at)AOL.COM
AND
in TECH TIPS:
Hardtop Rear Window Installation
March 27, 2009 in Body,Tech Tips by Curt Hoffman Originally printed 8/88
For those of you installing a new rear window, particularly if you are installing a glass rear window, you may have wondered ? do I put the rubber molding on the glass and then fit to the top or put the molding on the top and fit in the glass? The answer is to put the rubber on the glass first. A slick trick to then get the rubber all the way around the top is as follows:
1. Install the rubber molding on the glass with the thick part to the inside. The flatter side goes to the outside and will accept the chrome trim as a last step.
2. Take a long loop of insulated 14 gauge multi-strand wire (it probably does not have to be exactly 14 gauge, but that is what I had and it was a good thickness to use), and slip it into the slit that the top flange will ultimately go into. The wire should be long enough so that it goes all the way around the glass. The two ends should meet and come out at the bottom of the glass with enough to spare so that you can grab onto each end.
3. Spray some silicone lubricant into the slit over the wire to make the wire slide easier and protect the rubber from tearing.
4. Place your hardtop on your living room rug, with the top up and the front edge down on the carpet. This allows you to crawl under the back edge on your back and look up through the rear hole soon to be filled with glass.
5. Have your next-door neighbor pick up the glass – with rubber molding installed and wire in the slot – and place it in the hole as evenly as possible. The rubber molding will be sitting on top of the flange that will need to enter the slit currently being occupied by the wire.
6. Have your neighbor press down on the glass with enough force to be serious but not enough to break the glass and crush your face.
7. With the pressure coming down on the glass, you should begin to slowly pull the wires out of the slot. As you pull the wires out, the rubber molding lip will be forced up and over the flange on the hardtop. Once you are all the way around the glass, the rubber will be completely seated on the flange.
8. Install the chrome trim on the outside and you are done.
I tried, initially, to use a small screwdriver to work the rubber over the flange. That way did not work at all. The above trick took only about 10 minutes total, and I had a completed window. With the proper cut Plexiglass it would probably be even easier.
The Nova windshield I used had just enough difference in curvature that the last foot of wire pull was a little tough. The window seated suddenly, though, and poof I was done. I used the same technique to get the rubber molding on the front of the hardtop, which also would have been a little tricky without the wire.
Tagged as: Body, glass, hardtop, installation, molding, plexiglass, sunbeam, window
RunnerDuck
Donation Time
Has there been any more discussion on back windows for S1 hardtops? I've got one that I'm going to be starting on with no back window and will be needing one.
I have what looks like a homemade attempt at one that is broken and frosted really bad. I doubt it would eve work as a pattern.
I have what looks like a homemade attempt at one that is broken and frosted really bad. I doubt it would eve work as a pattern.