2.8 stock Ignition Components

[gordonra]

Mike,

If you just want to get it running, I can loan you the Motocraft 5200 and intake that was on my stock setup. It doesn't make a mean machine, but it got me by for about three years.

Rich

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Mike, A couple of years ago when I first became interested in going down this road I found good information on mix and match ignition and carburetor but I cant find the links now.I think it was on "the ranger station" or "carbed ford" sites. Maybe listed as EGR modifying.
Not much help without links to but it might be worth some browsing.

Hi Chuck.

I've been reading allot about mods and work arounds. Not sure if it's worth it to try and make a non-capadable system work just ok, or just spend the money on the correct components and have it work well for sure. I'll keep reading over the RangerStation site though.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Mike,

If you just want to get it running, I can loan you the Motocraft 5200 and intake that was on my stock setup. It doesn't make a mean machine, but it got me by for about three years.

Rich

Thank you Rich, I appreciate the offer. I'd kinda like to get it all set up and running with permanent components. It won't be a screamin' machine like you and that Kelly guy got , but it'll get me on the road!

 

[V6 JOSE]

Hi Mike,

On my first V6 Alpine, I used the stock Ford stuff for years without any trouble. I raced the car too, and it preformed very well. I will say, I carried a good used one in the trunk just in case, but never had to use it.

The 2.8 V6 distributors are famous for having the bushings go bad in them, which causes problems. I would get a rebuilt one, rather than use one from a junk yard, to insure many years of trouble free service.

Jose

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Hi Mike,

On my first V6 Alpine, I used the stock Ford stuff for years without any trouble. I raced the car too, and it preformed very well. I will say, I carried a good used one in the trunk just in case, but never had to use it.

The 2.8 V6 distributors are famous for having the bushings go bad in them, which causes problems. I would get a rebuilt one, rather than use one from a junk yard, to insure many years of trouble free service.

Jose

Thank you Jose.

If I'm going to spend the money for a Refurbished one then shouldn't I just switch to the preferred earlier model vacuum driven distributor?

....And if that's the case then won't I also have to change the carburetor to the earlier non-feedback 2150? (Unless I can convert my current feedback 2150 to non-feedback?).

 

[V6 JOSE]

Hi Mike,

I would get the early one just for the smaller cap, if for nothing else, which will make it easier to put an Offy manifold on it later. Your present carb should work fine, if you cap off every nipple on it except for the one for the vacuum hose.

Since your Alpine is earlier than 1972, you only need to use a PCV on the engine to be legal. You can delete all the other smog junk.

Jose

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Hi Mike,

I would get the early one just for the smaller cap, if for nothing else, which will make it easier to put an Offy manifold on it later. Your present carb should work fine, if you cap off every nipple on it except for the one for the vacuum hose.

Since your Alpine is earlier than 1972, you only need to use a PCV on the engine to be legal. You can delete all the other smog junk.

Jose

Great! I'd really like to not have to buy another carb until I go the 4-barrel route.

Will the electronic choke still be used?

 

[V6 JOSE]

Hi Mike,

Sure. You can still use the electric choke. The choke really isn´t electronic, as in computerized, but is still electrical.

Jose

Great! I'd really like to not have to buy another carb until I go the 4-barrel route.

Will the electronic choke still be used?

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Hi Mike,

Sure. You can still use the electric choke. The choke really isn´t electronic, as in computerized, but is still electrical.

Jose

Ahh, I see, thanks. I can see from pictures of the two carbs that the choke looks to be the same on the non-feedback carb.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Anybody just buy the components listed on The Ranger Station website?

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.shtml

All the parts listed for both NAPA and AutoZone are available online. AutoZone is nearly $100 cheaper Both have free shipping. The main savings is on the distributer which both appear to be the same Cardone Remanufatured.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...or/_/N-ioc0iZ9n80u?itemIdentifier=700864_0_0_

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NRD482691_0407414193

The rest of the parts are similar looking. I usually shop NAPA. Are AutoZone parts less expensive because their 'cheaper'?

 

[pcmenten]

Try rockauto.com

For a 79 Pinto, I'm looking at $66 plus shipping, assuming no core. Single vacuum.

 

[Bill Blue]

As to why the price of parts varies, I'm convinced that NAPA is higher simply because they are NAPA. When I was lashing the brake system together, brass fittings at NAPA were twice the price at Parts America. That was despite the fact they all came out of compartmented plastic boxes carrying the same brand.

I don't think I have been in a NAPA store since.

Bill

 

[pcmenten]

Bill, I hear what you're saying, but I also know that parts quality will vary, and NAPA will generally have the better parts. I don't have a problem with Cardone, but there were times when I went through a bunch of iffy parts before I learned to go to NAPA when the quality was critical. Internal engine parts, especially.

Also, NAPA carries Wix/NAPA Gold oil filters. Some of the best.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

I'm definitely not into buying the cheapest parts if it's generally poor quality stuff. It sure looks like both of those dizzy's are the same Cardone's but that is a huge price difference.

I don't think I'd want to go too cheap on the Ignition Module either. But then again, it would make for a cheap replacement if the heat got to it.

 

[coupe]

Hey guys, not always is price the marker, I got an electric fuel pump from napa when I went to the dark side. This pump lasted 3 hrs. Napa gave a replacement but I keep it as a spare as I bought a facet pump for the car. Bad ones can come from anywhere. I got the dizzy from napa but the box from another. Some boxes don't work so mine was for a pinto and the dura spark does fine, one from advance auto just would not fire some how it was not compatible.
Coupe

 

[Mike Armstrong]

I don't know if it's actually true but I've always felt that NAPA sold good quality products. That's not to say even the top notch stuff won't fail but overall I'd feel better buying components through them, which i have so far. The dizzy may be an exception since the exact same one is half the price somewhere else.

 

[Paul A]

I don't know if it's actually true but I've always felt that NAPA sold good quality products. That's not to say even the top notch stuff won't fail but overall I'd feel better buying components through them, which i have so far. The dizzy may be an exception since the exact same one is half the price somewhere else.

local shops here will not use rebuilt napa starters and alternators. I have had poor experiences with napa rebuilts. New napa starters and alternators seem to be okay.

my two cents worth.

 

[Fordtootsie]

duraspark II

I have a duraspark system for the V6 conversation I am working on. I would like to recurve the dist to get all the advance in by about 2600 rpm. Does anyone know of a spring set like used on the Mallory dist to get a nice steep curve will max advance in by 2600 or so. Also do I need to readjust the vac advance in conjunction with the recurve.

Thanks

John in Colorado

 

[pcmenten]

There used to be a web site called reincarnation that had instructions but that web site does not seem to be up right now.

 

[260Alpine]

I like this site for Duraspark II info.
http://www.classicinlines.com/DSIIswap.asp