Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.
If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.
Enjoy.
I've had this slow start problem with our cars and one of the best things I did per the suggestion of Doug Jennings was to install the electric facet fuel pumps. They are 1.5 to 4 PSI pumps. Turn on the switch and fuel to the carb, the car starts after a few turn overs. I mount them to the up right portion of the floor in front of the battery box. The pump is well protected in that area.Well guys, I thank you for your help.
I put the old Lucas coil back in and wired in the ballast resistor. Still hard to start and lumpy when running. Played a bit with the timing but that didn't do anything. I believe the reality is that the engine is flat worn out given the low compression. Happened pretty quickly, last time I checked it was closer to 150ish. I will do it again to see if I missed anything but doubt it. Interestingly, it doesn't burn much oil but the oil gets black fast There is also, as mentioned above, a lot of air flow through the valve cover. Apparently this is indicative of blow by which makes sense.
Sigh, someday I might actually get to enjoy the car but between the, diff needing replacement, the wheel/ hub replacement issue and now looking at a potential ring job, I am not optimistic. 10 years with this thing and have had probably a total of 3 months driving it. Guy down the block as a '63 T Bird. Going to look at is this afternoon. Maybe get something fun to actually drive.
Bah.
Tom,Tracy, Ugh, and Bah. Sorry to hear the state of your Alpine. Wish I could help. Keep us up to date on how it goes.
Bob, I agree it's not really important about the wire colors, as long as we get it wired correctly. And I really don't know where to get the correct color wires. But I have always assumed that any "original" style harness like supplied by Sunbeam Specialties had the same color wires as the original factory harness. My comments were mainly to try to eliminate any confusion any reader of this thread might have about the extra wire on most Series 5's imported to the US. That extra wire, not shown in the WSM main wiring diagram, goes from the solenoid to the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor, to apply full battery voltage to the coil while the starter is cranking the engine. The photo of the red car you posted above is perfect and the best picture I have seen that shows the original factory wiring of the coil and ballast resistor. I am still wondering if this red car is one of yours, since you earlier noted that none of your Series 5's has this "cold start" wire.
Tom
A stuck ring is a ring that has is no longer free to float in its groove. Sometimes a "mechanic in a can" type of solvent will free them. Rislone is one product. The sure fire way is to remove the pistons and free them, using solvent and TLC. Low compression will not make it run poorly, just down on power. Uneven compression will make it run raggedly.
Bill