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Enjoy.
Getting the correct battery is always good, so I'd go ahead with that. Ask for them to verify it's charged, and putting out full voltage under load.
Is the car negative or positive ground?
Do you know the history of this engine? As in, have you (or someone you trust) seen it run?
If it's coming back to life from long-term storage, there are a variety of things that could be at issue: incorrect valve adjustment, (resulting in exhaust valves never opening), partial hydro-lock due to head gasket issues, just general gunk in the cylinder bores, etc.
(Although I don't think it's an issue in this case, another thing that sometimes happens after long-term storage is the clutch friction disk gets stuck to the flywheel, which prevents the clutch pedal from disconnecting the engine and transmission... so it's always "in gear." Not a problem in neutral, but can be surprising when attempting to start with trans in gear and the clutch depressed.)
Just for grins... before you tear into it, try spinning the engine with no compression -- unplug the coil, take the plugs out, pinch off the fuel line, trans in neutral. I would say, if it's slow then, and your battery and connections are up to snuff, it's the starter.
I was able to remove and install the starter without undoing the exhaust, but it DID require unbolting the clutch slave. I was able to keep the line and the fork connected, just unbolted the slave and pushed it aside. That gave me enough clearance to manuver the starter out.
Tom
Chances are pretty slim on just getting brushes.
Hi Tom, the clutch slave on mine is well above the starter. The long end that goes through the bell housing is not allowing me to get it pulled back far enough. Keeps hitting the exhaust.