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electric radiator fan
- Thread starter sd_pace
- Start date
64beam
Donation Time
Hi,
You should not have any problems with your electric fan. Like any electrical device, they don't last forever. Make sure you mount it securely and use a relay kit to wire it. There are a few ways to wire them, from a basic switch to an electronic thermostat.
Regards, Robin.
lgurley
Donation Time
And they are sometimes installed on the rear of the radiator to pull the air rather than push it. I think it may depend on how much room you have between the engine and the radiator.
Rodewaryer
Donation Time
Seen them mounted both ways and am pretty sure they work fine either way. However if there's room in front of the rad I'd think that's more engine bay room and less engine bay clutter?
When the manufacturer puts them in front, it is because they have already done all the studies to make sure it works that way. They may have other reasons why they chose to do it that way. All the after market fans I have seen, in the instructions, say that they should be placed in back of the radiator not in front. I know that some don´t believe me, but I just suggest checking it out for yourself.
Jose
Jose
Nickodell
Donation Time
Logically, whether an obstruction is placed in front of or behind, and in contact with, a radiator core it will inhibit air flow in a similar amount, albeit slightly more with the front mount. Virtually all modern cars have them in front. In any case the point is usually moot; most aftermarket fans are too deep (front to back) to fit behind the rad. as the stock fan boss sticks out too much. If you can get hold of one of the slim ones, mount it on the engine side. However, you may still need to get the rad. out to mount it.
Belt-driven fans on street cars are illogical; they work best when you need them least (or not at all) - when driving fast - and worst when you need them most - stationary or moving slowly. They are a remnant of the 1920s, which is why they very largely disappeared from new cars in the 1980s.
Belt-driven fans on street cars are illogical; they work best when you need them least (or not at all) - when driving fast - and worst when you need them most - stationary or moving slowly. They are a remnant of the 1920s, which is why they very largely disappeared from new cars in the 1980s.
Electric Fan installation
getting ready to install the electric fan, where and how should I connect it. I have a series IV Positive ground. I also have a questions concerning the installation of new horns. When I hook up one horn it works fine, but when I install the second horn my Generator light goes on. What's up with
Help
Rick
getting ready to install the electric fan, where and how should I connect it. I have a series IV Positive ground. I also have a questions concerning the installation of new horns. When I hook up one horn it works fine, but when I install the second horn my Generator light goes on. What's up with
Help
Rick
Nickodell
Donation Time
The brain pickin's may not be enough because my 'beam is an SV and I don't know if the electrics are the same. What I did was wire a relay that is energized via a thermostat, with a bypass switch on the dash. The thermostat is located in a threaded boss that I soldered to the top tank of the radiator. I had tried the one that came with the fan, that you are supposed to push through the fins of the rad., but it caused a leak.
Rather than possibly overload the existing accessory wiring, I wired the power side of the relay to the primary wire at the starter solenoid, with a 10a in-line fuse. The power drain doesn't show on the ammeter this way, but the fan is only supposed to come on occasionally, when you are parked or moving slowly, so you can still monitor the charging system's health most of the time.
You really should use a thermostat so that it will come on when the temperature exceeds a maximum point that you set with the 'stat's adjustment. Mine is set at 185+/- 5 degrees F. This obviates the need to keep looking at the temp. gauge. You also need a bypass switch in case the 'stat quits, which my second one did after a couple of years. Without the bypass you're S.O.L. I added an LED warning lamp to show when the fan is on.
Pos or neg ground is immaterial, as the fan motor is a DC permanent magnet one. Just ensure, after mounting and wiring, that it blows from the front of the car into the engine compartment, and not 'tother way round (another reason why you need the bypass switch, to test run the fan from time to time). If it blows from the engine comp. out to the grille, just reverse the wiring.
Rather than possibly overload the existing accessory wiring, I wired the power side of the relay to the primary wire at the starter solenoid, with a 10a in-line fuse. The power drain doesn't show on the ammeter this way, but the fan is only supposed to come on occasionally, when you are parked or moving slowly, so you can still monitor the charging system's health most of the time.
You really should use a thermostat so that it will come on when the temperature exceeds a maximum point that you set with the 'stat's adjustment. Mine is set at 185+/- 5 degrees F. This obviates the need to keep looking at the temp. gauge. You also need a bypass switch in case the 'stat quits, which my second one did after a couple of years. Without the bypass you're S.O.L. I added an LED warning lamp to show when the fan is on.
Pos or neg ground is immaterial, as the fan motor is a DC permanent magnet one. Just ensure, after mounting and wiring, that it blows from the front of the car into the engine compartment, and not 'tother way round (another reason why you need the bypass switch, to test run the fan from time to time). If it blows from the engine comp. out to the grille, just reverse the wiring.
rootesrefuge
Donation Time
On my Arrow wagon, I used 2 10 inch fans, mounting one on the front and one on the back. That way the two center mounting points are shared, and there's plenty of clearance with the stock fan removed. I installed a fitting from an old SAAB 900 in the lower rad hose, it's basically just a pipe with a threaded boss to accept a thermoswitch. A VW thermostatic fan switch fits perfectly, and gives plenty of different temperature choices to pick from. The wiring is pretty simple. Above all, make sure to use a relay and make sure both the power circuit and the switch circuit are fused. I left my circuits hot at all times, so if the engine is hot after shutdown the fan will run a bit to help cool things off. It's never run more than a minute after shutdown.
I've been so happy with the conversion I'm planning to do it to all my cars!
Jon Arzt
Omaha, NE
I've been so happy with the conversion I'm planning to do it to all my cars!
Jon Arzt
Omaha, NE
Nickodell
Donation Time
Jon: There has been correspondence about whether to make the fan wired to an always live supply or to an ignition-controlled one (i.e. power supply always hot but relay only hot when ignition is on). In my case it's wired always live, but that is moot as I always turn everything off with a battery master switch if I leave the car for more than a couple of minutes.
The supposed reason to wire "always live" is, as you say, to allow things to cool off, but that is, if you'll excuse my being frank, faulty logic. The fan will only continue to cool the coolant in the radiator, and then actually only in its core - maybe a quart at the most - and only a little in the header or bottom tank by convection. And, more important, it does nothing at all for the coolant in the block and head, where the residual heat is generated and continues to be conducted to the coolant for some minutes after switching off.
In other words, the fan is doing nothing but make noise for a few minutes, and drain the battery. There seems to be much concern about the engine boiling, but unless you were right up there at 225 degrees or so on switching off, it is very unlikely to boil. And the answer to a brief brew up on stopping is to use an overflow tank. Any steam coming out of the rad. will condense in the coolant in the tank, and be sucked back into the engine as liquid after it cools.
As Dennis Miller says: That's just my opinion, of course. I could be wrong.
The supposed reason to wire "always live" is, as you say, to allow things to cool off, but that is, if you'll excuse my being frank, faulty logic. The fan will only continue to cool the coolant in the radiator, and then actually only in its core - maybe a quart at the most - and only a little in the header or bottom tank by convection. And, more important, it does nothing at all for the coolant in the block and head, where the residual heat is generated and continues to be conducted to the coolant for some minutes after switching off.
In other words, the fan is doing nothing but make noise for a few minutes, and drain the battery. There seems to be much concern about the engine boiling, but unless you were right up there at 225 degrees or so on switching off, it is very unlikely to boil. And the answer to a brief brew up on stopping is to use an overflow tank. Any steam coming out of the rad. will condense in the coolant in the tank, and be sucked back into the engine as liquid after it cools.
As Dennis Miller says: That's just my opinion, of course. I could be wrong.
rootesrefuge
Donation Time
Admittedly, without the water pump circulating the coolant flow will be small, but the system will thermosiphon on it's own. I have an electric engine warmer in the lower hose on that car as well, it warms everything quite nicely.
But the fans also blow air into the engine compartment, helping to alleviate the hot-soak a bit in hot weather. I don't have a problem with vapor lock now that I've converted to injection but decided to wire it this way due to the extremes of the climate here in Nebraska, where it can range anywhere from -20 F to +110 F. (hence the engine warmer!)
As for the battery, I've no problems there as I use a 90 amp alternator and a large battery to keep the power levels steady for the EFI system no matter the load. This car is my daily driver, so I wanted to be sure I had enough juice at all times.
But the fans also blow air into the engine compartment, helping to alleviate the hot-soak a bit in hot weather. I don't have a problem with vapor lock now that I've converted to injection but decided to wire it this way due to the extremes of the climate here in Nebraska, where it can range anywhere from -20 F to +110 F. (hence the engine warmer!)
As for the battery, I've no problems there as I use a 90 amp alternator and a large battery to keep the power levels steady for the EFI system no matter the load. This car is my daily driver, so I wanted to be sure I had enough juice at all times.
slippery_biscuit
Donation Time
I am wondering if anyone has considered an electric water pump? I've heard pro's and con's but nothing from experience. Seems like a lot of water would still be getting moved in hot, slow traffic...
64beam
Donation Time
Hi,
A local club member here in Australia has an electric water pump with an adjustable controller with an aluminium radiator. I don't know the pros and cons, but I believe he does not have any issues. I don't know if alpine64 knows any different.
Regards, Robin.