Woo Hoo!

[Andrew]

Hey Guys,

I took the S3 to work today and I arrived on time! The Weber choke was not disengaging properly and was causing some problems with the running. The Shifting is almost fixed, I say almost as I think there is still a little air in the system. She still seems to be missing a little but it will idle and that is a big improvement.

Timing? I performed a static timing test and set the dizzy. She seemed to run ok but I thought I would check it with a timing light. Should there be a big difference? The static timing looked to be about 30deg off when running at aprox 1000 rpm. This is with the vacuum line connected.
Please confirm, the static test should be set when at TDC? Is it ok to set the car using the static test only? The car seems to be running a little off and I think it is due to timing. Any help would be great.

It is nice to have her back on the road again. The only real problem I have now is that it look as if the used engine is blowing a little oil out the back of the engine as I have a some oil dripping out around the flywheel cover??

Thanks again for the help guys, it would be tough doing all of this without the group.
Andrew

 

[RootesRacer]

Static timing the dizzy is silly, who knows exactly when the points open and cause spark.

Buy a timing light.

 

[Andrew]

Yes, I found a large difference between the static timing and the timing from my light. The change from the static timing and the light may have been as much as 30 deg, is this possible?

Andrew

 

[Eleven]

As for the timing chain cover leak, look on the right side of the engine (drivers right) under the pulley. On my Series V, there is a small machined hole (I am told there was some sort of item in there that has fallen off). At idle it will drool oil. On mine, as the RPM's increase it will actually stop BUT, and here is the really cool thing, under a load at highway speeds, the drooling stops and turns to a stream!!! Yeah! Will pump all the oil out in about 10 miles. If you have this hole, it has got to be plugged. It is a triangulated B___h to get to. I goobered up some JB weld onto a cut off sheet metal screw and worked it into the hole. Very crude but short of pulling off the pulley, can't see any other way of fixing it. When I pull the engine, will deal with it properly.

 

[Bill Blue]

Well, you proved it is possible. To be off that much, I'd guess you were working on the wrong side of the point cam. Easy enough to do. The real value of static timing is to get things close enough to fire it off.

You did it!

Bill

 

[Andrew]

As for the timing chain cover leak, .

I don't have a timing chain cover leak problem. I installed the chevy mod timing cover a couple years ago and it worked well. The problem I have now is with the new engine (new engine to me but used from a SIV), I think it may be blowing oil out the rear of the engine as I have oil dripping out of the "flywheel cover". This is the cover that is bolted to the bell housing at the rear of the engine.

I will live with this problem and have fun with the car for the rest of the summer. I will then do an entire engine rebuild during the winter. Fun, fun, I can see it now out in the garage during the winter storms .

Andrew

 

[RootesRacer]

With the front cover seal you have, the oil is finding the next easiest path, which is out the back, for which there is no simple fix.

Make sure the PCV valve is functioning and thats about all you can do short of a rebuild.

 

[Tom H]

Andrew, Please be clear about how you are comparing Static timing to Timing light timing. This is what I assume you mean and how the WSM describes it:

To Set Static timing:
1) You rotate the crank clockwise until the pully is at the 10Deg BTDC mark (factory spec for series IV is 9 to 13 deg ) On most SIVs the timing marks are at 5 deg increments so 10 Deg is 2 marks from TDC.

2) Then you put a 12 V lamp between the Low voltage terminal on the distributor and ground . Connected this way the lamp will light when the points are open.

3) Now remove the High Voltage wire from the coil, loosen the distributor clamp, turn on the ignition and rotate the dizzy - first rotate it counterclockwise about 45 deg-the lamp should be OFF.

4) Now rotate the dizzy clockwise - while holding slight clockwise finger pressure on the rotor. Rotate the dizzy slowly and stop when the lamp lights. Tighten the clamp on the dizzy.

5) Check the timing - Rotate the crank clockwise two whole turns and watch carefully to see when the lamp lights. It should light when the pully shows at the 10 Deg BTDC point.

Now after verifying that the "static" timing using this method are you saying that if you use a timing light to check it at 1000 RPM you find the pully shows 40 Deg BTDC - that is 30 deg different ? This would imply that teh advance mechanisms - Vacuum and Centrifugal) are advancing the timing 30 deg at just 1000 RPM. Seems way too high .

Or are you saying you need to adjust the dizzy to 40 Deg BTDC using a timing light to make it run well? That seems high also

But more than likely your definition of "Static timing" is different than what the manual and I describe.

Tom