Won't restart after running

[Shabazz]

My dad has a 62 Alpine that has been worked on by several people. My dad doesn't know much about mechanical things. Anyway, he most recently picked it up from the shop and drove it home about 30 miles on the highway. He said it ran beautifully but when he stopped to pick up some milk, he got in the car and it wouldn't fire. He said the starter engaged but it wouldn't fire. This is a problem he has had before--and that was actually why he brought it to the shop in the first place.

Could it be an overheating fuel pump? Carburetor issue? Vapor lock?

What could be the problem?

Thanks for any help

 

[Series3Scott]

Many variables here because you didn't mention if the car has a stock set up or has an aftermarket carb, electric fuel pump, electronic ignition, etc. but assuming stock carbs, tank, ignition, and fuel pump:

1. Check all the ignition wires to make sure nothing has worked loose. You say the starter engages but the car won't fire which may point to loose spark plug wire(s).
2. Does he see black flakes in the glass bowl of the fuel pump? If so that's a sure sign of the original black paint in the fuel tank peeling off and gumming up the fuel line. If he waits 10 minutes or so does it start up again?
3. You mentioned vapor lock - is the fuel boiling at the time this happens?

What work has recently been done on the car?

 

[George Coleman]

Had this problem before, was the timing adjusted? It could be advanced to far that would make it run great but after a short time and heat it will not start till it has cooled off. Did it start after it set for an hour or more?

 

[Thor 1211]

Hard starting hot

A series II should have Zeniths? I don't know if my experience with hard starting when hot is relevant but we sometimes had this problem with Bing carbs on German bikes. The Bings are very similar to the Strombergs, and the problem was usually related to the float level and sometimes the float needle. If the float level was too high or if the needle stuck or worn, they would sort of flood the motor, not with gas peeing out, but just enough to make the mixture too rich to start hot. You couldn't smell gas or anything but if you took the plugs out they would be wet. One of three things usually was the right fix. Cleaning out the float bowls, replacing the needle if necessary or setting the float height properly usually cured the problem. We usually did all three at once. Even if one of the carbs was right, there was no way you were going to start that motor with a wet plug. I had it happen to me once with my series V before I rebuilt the Strombergs. It turned out to be a stuck float/needle on the back carb.

 

[Shabazz]

A little more info

The car would start after it cooled down...over an hour wait I think

The stock zenith carbs were replaced with a single carb. Not sure how they did it, and unfortunately I'm a 5 hour drive away from the car and my dad. Not sure about the fuel pump or ignition

My father in law also wondered about a timing issue...

My dad also has no idea what they did at the shop. He is older now and has never really had a mind for mechanics.

Until I can move the car to my house in September, I guess I won't have many answers. I appreciate you suggestions so far

 

[sunbby]

If it starts fine cold, runs without problem after starting and had a hard time starting when hot; I would guess carb setup (including Thor's suggestion about float level issues), choke settings/problems or incorrect warm start procedure.

When starting cold do you use the choke? How much throttle?

When starting hot how much choke and throttle?

One indication to check, if it easily starts cold with no choke, the carb may be too rich to start when hot.

 

[Shabazz]

Thanks for now!

I am surprised at how quickly I got so much help! Thank you all so much. I'm going to have to wait until September to get some answers and possibly more help.

I'll let you know how this issue resolves.

Thanks again!

 

[chazza]

In a addition to the previous comments, which I agree with, hot-starting problems can sometimes be associated with a weak spark. This can be easily checked by earthing a spark plug to the engine, whilst someone else cranks it for you; look for a bright and strong electric-blue spark. If it is weak or yellowish, give the ignition system a complete service including points, capacitor, plugs, high-tension leads and finally the coil.

In my case the car had the same symptoms as yours, but substituting a known good coil sorted the problem,

Cheers Charlie

 

[tony perrett]

It could be a faulty condenser. I had a similar problem which was eventually traced to a faulty rotor arm. Apparently there are large numbers of these in circulation, sold in Lucas boxes. In UK, replacements made from a red material are available and are recommended by many Classic Car Clubs.

 

[mint 61]

Wondering if you ever found the problem, as this sounds exactly like what my 61 series II is doing.

 

[buckalpine3]

hot starting issues

Mint, I had the same problem with my SV. Cold starts were fine but when the engine was warmed it ran rough and frequently just died and would not restart until cooling. I had two things done: the fuel line was moved away from the front of the engine and radiator and the engine was re-timed. In hindsight I think the problem was a timing issue and agree with George Coleman. My car has been very dependable since then.

 

[mxp01]

I had this exact same problem. For me it was vapor lock in the fuel pump. I could jump in drive to the store 20 minutes away and come out 10 minutes later and sometimes fire up then stall our just wouldn't fire up at all. A quick fix is pour a bit of water on the pump to cool it down. I installed a electric pump to solve to issue. If you have a electric pump then that's not your problem