wire wheels

[dtbaker61]

The Alpine I recently bought has steel wheels mounted, but a set of wire wheels available. I am debating on whether I want to deal with them, or just stick with the steel wheels..... Considering ebay for the wires, Assuming they are in good shape, are they worth putting on ebay and shipping? Or are the wires something that basically nobody wants to deal with?

 

[kmathis]

Just my two cents:
It depends on the condition of the wire wheels; mine on my car were in very poor shape and the cost of reconditioning them was very expensive, around $300 dollars each, so instead I bought 4 bolt hubs, steel wheels and hub caps from members on this board and converted over the bolt ons. This has made a big difference in how it performs on the freeway, very smooth. I also have understood that the wires are not that strong.
The other good thing about the bolt on wheels is that you have a bigger selection of aftermarket wheels should you want a different look later on.

Take care,

 

[dtbaker61]

I think they are in good shape, but will know more in a week or two... I am just wondering mre if any of the real super-stock guys are interested, or if they are just doorstops.

 

[SIVAllan]

If they are in good shape with hubs in good shape then go for it. The main point of wear is the splines, both on the wheels and on the hubs.

Some of us like the classic looks of wire wheels and wouldn't run anything else.

When the 40+ year old originals wore out on my car I decided to replace with new hubs and wheels.

The ride is as good as the ride provided by any wheel for daily driving, and trips.

 

[mattinoz]

Don't mean to hijack this thread but my question is on topic. What's involved in swapping from wires to steel wheels?

 

[alpine_64]

Don't mean to hijack this thread but my question is on topic. What's involved in swapping from wires to steel wheels?

4 hubs.. fronts are comon to all series, rears are not, the SV have a different size shaft.

Hub puller.. the closer to a correct factory one the better.. hubs are a pain to pull and easy to wreck/bell.

then while your at it change the rear hub seals and bearings and fronts..

I think in the tech section of the site is a good article on the conversion by Jim Ellis.

 

[alpine_64]

I think they are in good shape, but will know more in a week or two... I am just wondering mre if any of the real super-stock guys are interested, or if they are just doorstops.

the splined hubs are the key.. rebuilding/respoking rims isn't to bad.. but pointless if the hubs have worn. Check the ridges on the hubs, if they are sharp they are junk, and will tear away at new wheels in short time, also check the splines on the wheels for the same wear.. if they are still square topped and not sharp.. you can have the wheels trued and respoked, grease the splines and hubs well before refitting and enjoy..

if not decide if you want to splash out on the new wire hub/wheel combo.. or search out some bolt on hubs and new wheels.

 

[DanR*Dan]

Wire to Solid wheels ....

I am also converting from wire... mine are in bad shape.

Now comes the Question! What mag wheels are available ?

I will need the Four bolt pattern. Prefer to get 14 -15 inch wheels and maybe 5.5 to 6 inch wide.

Can you provide what, where and if my wheel conversion can be met?

Thanks!

Dan Richardson

 

[mattinoz]

I solved my wires or steels dilemma by buy another car with steels wheels. This now provides me with the opportunity to put on a set of Minilites or Panasports. I think a set of 14"s or 15"s would look great on my new SV GT. These are very popular especially on Tigers and look great on our cars and retain the period look of the '60's.

While I love the look of wires they are a pain when worn and as others have said, very expensive to repair/replace.

 

[Ken Ellis]

Wires are on my "gotta do it once" list. The un-researched plan is to do splined hubs on the front, but bolt-on to spline adaptors on the back. Then 14" wires all-around. Probably chrome plated stainless. Expensive, maintenance nightmare, pain to keep clean, yadda yadda yadda. Although I like Minilites, I like the look of wires better.

So here's some questions: are splined hubs just one angle on the taper, or does it change angle front-to-back. (Meaning front to back of the hub.)

And, when a wheel is correctly installed, does it only contact the splines and the fixing nut, and not the "back" of the hub?

I'd be interested in a "dead" hub/wheel combo or two, for research purposes. Without spokes/rim would be fine...

 

[gordonra]

Ken,

My experience with wires leads me to believe that the wheel is captured between the spinner nut, and the back taper. I suspect that the taper on my wires had been deformed by a previous owner over tightening the nut. I believe that the nut was at or near bottoming out.

The thing about wires contrary to popular belief.... Tightening the nut doesn't do anything to take up the slack in the spline. I've read that tightening the spinner properly will stop wire wheel "Klunk". Fact of the matter is that there is no way the spinner will hold against the extreme torque of acceleration/deceleration, and I'm sure it was never designed to do this. The splines must be in excellent condition or "klunk" will occur.

Others may disagree...

Rich

Wires are on my "gotta do it once" list. The un-researched plan is to do splined hubs on the front, but bolt-on to spline adaptors on the back. Then 14" wires all-around. Probably chrome plated stainless. Expensive, maintenance nightmare, pain to keep clean, yadda yadda yadda. Although I like Minilites, I like the look of wires better.

So here's some questions: are splined hubs just one angle on the taper, or does it change angle front-to-back. (Meaning front to back of the hub.)

And, when a wheel is correctly installed, does it only contact the splines and the fixing nut, and not the "back" of the hub?

I'd be interested in a "dead" hub/wheel combo or two, for research purposes. Without spokes/rim would be fine...