Wire to Solonoid

[Hodee]

Just got a new solonoid from Moss. All is good except one terminal is missing as compared to the original. There is a green and white wire from the positive side of the coil that should connect to the solonoid. That terminal is missing from the new unit. The official WSM does not show this wire but does indicate 4 connections made to the positive side of the terminal. 3 of those connections are shown to be brown wires. I’m confused as to where to connect the green and white wire from the coil. I’m thinking of connecting to the + side of the solonoid but don’t want any Lucas fires either!! Help if you can. Cheers. Ps, the manual also does not show a ballast either, which I do have. Late model series V. Thanks.

 

[hartmandm]

The white+green wire should be connected to the same terminal on the solenoid that goes to the starter. At the coil, connect the white+green wire to the same terminal that the ballast resistor is connected, which is the "+" terminal. The "-" coil terminal goes to the distributor via the white+black wire.

Mike

 

[Hodee]

Thanks, that would mean the green and white wire from the coil goes to the ground of the solonoid?

 

[Hodee]

Thanks, that would mean the green and white wire from the coil goes to the ground of the solonoid?

Your photo shows it going to the “ distributor “ not starter solonoid. Hmmm.

 

[hartmandm]

The white+green wire is the cold weather starter circuit. The purpose of the circuit is to bypass the ballast resistor during starting. Thus providing the highest voltage to the coil while the starter is cranking.

Like I said, connect the white+green wire to the same terminal on the solenoid that goes to the starter. So when the starter is engaged via the ignition switch, the white+green wire will go hot.

At the coil, connect the white+green wire to the "+" terminal on the coil.



Wire "A" is the white+green wire that goes from the starter solenoid, then along the firewall to the coil.
Wire "B" is the white+black wire that goes from the coil "-" terminal to the distributor.

Mike

 

[puff4]

Mike’s description absolutely correct. This design gives the coil full 12v power whenever the starter is engaged, to provide an extra-hot spark upon starting the car (in any weather). When the key is released to the “run” position, the coil reverts to ballasted power (lower voltage) due to the power supply coming through the ballast. The ballasted coil is designed to run at a lower voltage so that it can be temporarily run “hot” on straight battery power for more spark in demanding conditions… if you ran it that way all the time it would burn out prematurely.

The key here is in the color codes of the wires. For example, green is generally for wires to components that are switched on by the ignition switch, white is generally for primary (ignition) wires that are hot whenever the car is running, and black is for ground. And, in general, the base color of a wire denotes its purpose, and the secondary color, when present, denotes its destination or alternate source of power.

So, for example, the wire going from the distributor points to the coil is white (primary) and black (ground), meaning it’s an ignition wire that’s being switched to ground - which the points in effect do. Similarly, that white (primary) and green (ignition switch) wire is an ignition wire, which is being switched to powered by the ignition switch (when in the “start” position).

 

[Hodee]

Thanks for all the replies as electrical systems are indeed my weakest link. However, I did install the new solonoid and it turns over like a dream, but will only stay running off I keep the ignition key fully turned as if startup. Once I released the key to the run position, it dies. I then disconnected the white with green stripe wire from the positive side of the coil away from the starter side of the solonoid. The car starts and runs fine. I am in a warm Texas climate but I don’t want to ruin the ballast or any other components. This is a Pertronoix setup as I forgot to mention that previously. Your replies are always welcome and appreciated. Thanks.

 

[hartmandm]

It sounds like you might have connected the white+green wire to the wrong 'thing' at the solenoid.

Mike

 

[Hodee]

It sounds like you might have connected the white+green wire to the wrong 'thing' at the solenoid.

Mike

Possibly. But I connected to the side that directly goes to the starter. Curious what would happen if I attach to the other side?

 

[Hodee]

Would there be any harm not connecting it at all?

 

[hartmandm]

Would there be any harm not connecting it at all?

No harm. Plenty of Alpines were made without the cold weather starting circuit. If your starting is good without it, don't worry about it.

Mike

 

[hartmandm]

I gave you bad info earlier. Sorry about that. I don't think you can connect the white+green wire to anything on your new solenoid and have it work correctly. You would need to add a relay to supply current to the white+green wire. The new relay would need to be controlled by the white+red wire that controls the starter solenoid (i.e. engages the solenoid when the ignition switch is in the 'start' position).

Sounds like your setup is working fine without the cold weather starting circuit, so really no need to add it back in.

Mike

 

[Hodee]

Thank you so much Mike ! I had a hard time sleeping last night wondering what was going on. The good news is the car fires up strongly and runs well. This does however bring up another question in my mind. If I were to connect the white/green from the cool to the “battery “ side of the solonoid, then that would cause my coil to go out prematurely? I’m thinking of just leaving it disconnected as stated. Thanks again. I’ll rest easier!

 

[hartmandm]

The "battery" connection on the solenoid is always hot, so you would be always bypassing the ballast resistor and you would be supplying full battery voltage to the coil even when the car is off. It should cook the coil in short order and drain your battery.

Mike