• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Wilwood MC rebuild kits

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I'm finding the quality of Wilwood master cylinders to be on a par with the Alpine units, not good. My first cylinder was faulty out of the box, its replacement has turned the DOT 3 black and it is oozing out after about 30,000. Anybody know of a quality 5/8" rebuild kit that will fit the Wilwood master?

As you might have guessed, I know nothing about the interchangeability of rebuild kits.

Bill
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Might I ask is this the Brake or Clutch Master?

I too had a bad time with the Wildwood Master (Brake) a year ago. It was a brand new out of the box.

While getting ready for a MEET on a Saturday in Georgia it failed on a Friday afternoon after all stores were closed.

I replaced it with the original (Alpine) unit I had just removed which functioned well.

It (the original style) was serviceable, just elected to replace with the Wildwood.

It is still working fine..... If I can get one of the Nissan units or modify the mount (you mentioned) I will replace it because I'd like the dual system fro that bit of added safety.

I still have the 5/8 Wildwood Master clutch unit from back in 2013 functioning well (I do have DOT 5 in all my lines). All of the lines and components were brand new when installed.

As for interchangeability I too know very little for substitutes.

DanR
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Hmmm. This cylinder is being used as a clutch master, although I think they can be used for either function. I'm thinking I should wait for this thing to completely fail, as it seems dubious that a new one would be any better. If I keep the manual trans (seems unlikely, but who knows), I just might sleeve a 3/4" master cylinder down to 11/16", which would be the perfect size.

I refuse to get embroiled in brake fluid choices. If it can't function with the standard brake fluid of the past 60 years, I don't want it. Yeah, old fashioned, hard headed, you name it, I'm guilty.

Bill
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Wilwood master

I have a Wilwood master I was planning to use for my brakes, and I do not need a clutch because I am installing an A4LD behind a 2.3 Ford. I know, I know, I've been saying that for two years...but I have finally got my shop built. I would post pictures if I knew how. Any ideas? Now I am looking for wheels/tires because the 13" have very few options. I have a setoff 14" x 6" that may work but look like they will stick-out past the fender on the front. Again, any ideas? Everything to rebuild the 2.3 is on hand and I hope to start soon.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I have a Wilwood master I was planning to use for my brakes, and I do not need a clutch because I am installing an A4LD behind a 2.3 Ford. I know, I know, I've been saying that for two years...but I have finally got my shop built. I would post pictures if I knew how. Any ideas? Now I am looking for wheels/tires because the 13" have very few options. I have a setoff 14" x 6" that may work but look like they will stick-out past the fender on the front. Again, any ideas? Everything to rebuild the 2.3 is on hand and I hope to start soon.

33mm offset works very well with 6" wheels. I'm using Saab 15" X 6" steel wheels. They fit the car perfectly, other than a little issue with hub diameter. The Alpine hubs are a little larger than the Saab hub hole.

Bill
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
A4ld

"but I have finally got my shop built"

Great news, especially if that means the sale is done and move is complete.

Speaking of A4LD, we have decided to go with an automatic. The contenders are a stock Duratec Ranger 5E, or A4LD with a Duratec bell housing. How to control shifting is a large problem for me, especially as I know zip about the A4LD. I know the convertor lockup is solenoid controlled and can be easily done with a simple switch. However, on all but the earliest units, 4th is also solenoid controlled. How and when is that accomplished? What are the inputs for the rest of the shifts? Vacuum modulator? Throttle position?

Bill
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
I'm finding the quality of Wilwood master cylinders to be on a par with the Alpine units, not good. My first cylinder was faulty out of the box, its replacement has turned the DOT 3 black and it is oozing out after about 30,000. Anybody know of a quality 5/8" rebuild kit that will fit the Wilwood master?

As you might have guessed, I know nothing about the interchangeability of rebuild kits.

Bill

I have had that happen with my own rebuilds using DOT 3.
When I called Rick he told me to only use castrol/lockheed DOT 4.

I did that and that rebuilt brake master cyl has over 20 years on it.
The clutch slave gave up the ghost and got an MGB aftermarket (sachs) clutch slave which is specified to run DOT 3 which I obliged.
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Selling the old place took 4 months with the renting of 6 storage buildings for "stuff"! One building still rented. Shop took 4 months due to city "codes" I did not contend with way out in the country. Now the house is being updated as it was built in 1975...and the wife of almost 52 years wants to make changes. Ain't love grand! If someone will explain how, I will post pictures of shop and Sunbeam. Bill, you have exactly one year on me...does it ever slow down?
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Bill, the place I got the A4LD said the Over Drive is the only gear needing electrics...for the Torque Converter lockup. I am hoping they are right when they say vacuum/RPM shifts all the others. With luck I'll know this time next year.
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
WOW! You've been moving at light speed.

The A4LD needing only vacuum and rpm to control shifting sounds good. I tried Google and all I saw were guys wondering why their early 90's A4s were not shifting right. The answer always came back to check the drive line control module.

No, it never slows down, only the ability to keep up. Most of it is by choice. Our retirement world is not hanging out at the community retirement center and bitching about the youth of today. I have a decent metal shop and still have projects to do. My biggest problem is me, or most likely my diabetes, as I sometimes have extended periods of time when I have a very shitty attitude and getting out of bed is a big job. That sucks.

Starting in late August, we put 12,000 miles on the Alpine, most of it following the Missouri River from its confluence with the Mississippi to its creation in Montana. Throw in attending the TE/AE United in Virginia , Cruising The Coast in Mississippi, a funeral in Nebraska and you've got some serious seat time!

Bill
 

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Driving the Alpine long distance

Bill, how does the Alpine do on long trips comfort wise? I have both a new soft-top and the removable hardtop. Any suggestions about seats? I have a couple of shells out of my 2nd car. Thought I would have them recovered, but some say they are no good for the long haul drive. Also, how is the OEM suspension with a total rebuild? I have 2 to pick from for OEM parts and many parts can be substituted with later over-the-counter stuff...poly bushings, gas shocks, brake pads, etc. The 2.3 will be a mild rebuild for smooth running on the highway, with an Autolite 2150 two barrel on an Esslinger intake, tube header, hot ignition, mild cam (256), electric fuel pump and radiator fan. With a lowered body, 14" wheels and poly suspension bushings, it should handle better. Things went South with the house remodel! The shop contractor stuck me with $8,000.00 extra and now the house guy has $11,000.00 of my money (just for labor) and has skipped town with half the work unfinished! "Home Advisor" ain't what it says it is!! Depending on how much we end up losing, the Alpine rebuild may take longer than planned...but don't they anyway!?
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor

Bill, how does the Alpine do on long trips comfort wise?

Surprisingly good. We put over 10,000 miles on it in about two months this past fall. We now have about 95,000 miles on the rebuild.

I have both a new soft-top and the removable hardtop.

We do too. The removable hard top is the way to go for comfort. It can be much quieter, more weather tight and easier to air condition the car. Out top is one of the old Parish tops. They are well made, but poorly designed and fit like crap around the windows. I had to perform extensive surgery on ours to even make it set on the car correctly. BUT, they can be made into nice tops and you can buy parts for them, especially for the rear glass.

Any suggestions about seats?
Guys that know say the stock seats are good if you get new foam. The original foam dies of dry rot, don't even consider using them. We have settled on second generation Miata seats. They are very comfortable, are tower seats and are compatible with the three point seat belts. However, they are definitely a pain to adapt to the Alpine and still retain adjustibility. They also block accessibility to the rear seat. That is their only real downside. The upside, when running top down, they reduce high speed buffeting.

I have a couple of shells out of my 2nd car. Thought I would have them recovered, but some say they are no good for the long haul drive.

It has been 50 years since I've taken a long drive in an Alpine with stock seats. 'Nuff said.

Also, how is the OEM suspension with a total rebuild? I have 2 to pick from for OEM parts and many parts can be substituted with later over-the-counter stuff...poly bushings, gas shocks, brake pads, etc. The 2.3 will be a mild rebuild for smooth running on the highway, with an Autolite 2150 two barrel on an Esslinger intake, tube header, hot ignition, mild cam (256), electric fuel pump and radiator fan. With a lowered body, 14" wheels and poly suspension bushings, it should handle better.
Lots to cover here.
I used the white bushings, they squeak like crazy. Ride? Dunno, can't compare them to rubber bushings as I have no experience with them.

I used Monroe gas shocks. If your building a comfortable road car, I think they are the only way to go. If you want high performance, look elsewhere.

Brake pads, no personal experience. My brakes have only one stock part, the pedal, and it is modified to give a 6:1 peal ratio.

Do not neglect to rebuild the rear suspension. Some, not all, of the springs have plastic buttons between them. The buttons wear out and the spring wear into each other, forming grooves that essentially lock the leafs together. Relieve the grooves, insert liners between the leafs and replace the front rubber bushing. Totally changed the ride on our car. It used to crow-hop over expansion joints, no more. Also, install a 3/4" (stock Tiger) front sway bar. Makes no discernible difference in ride and makes a big difference in handling. Also make sure your caster is more than 3 degrees. Stays on the road much better.

Also, contact DanR and get an electric power steering kit. The 2.3 is heavy and your getting older and weaker. That, combined with the wide rubber and small after market steering wheels will make you park your Alpine way before you should. I have one of his kits, it will be installed this winter.

Last, but far from least, the main problem with an Alpine on long trips is heat and noise. Insulate, insulate and insulate.

Things went South with the house remodel! The shop contractor stuck me with $8,000.00 extra and now the house guy has $11,000.00 of my money (just for labor) and has skipped town with half the work unfinished! "Home Advisor" ain't what it says it is!!

Kind of late, but never totally pay for a job before its completed. I've had some contractors get pissed at me, but I've never had any to leave town before the job was done.

Depending on how much we end up losing, the Alpine rebuild may take longer than planned...but don't they anyway!?
Not only they take longer, but they never really get completed. At least when I do them. Seems like there is also something that can be made a bit better on the focus of the build changes.

As an example, I've decided I won't go with the A4LD, but instead am building a different intake manifold that should boost low end power, making downshifting a bit less necessary. Also installing a larger clutch MC to eliminate the possibility of incomplete disengagement and changed the remote shifter to make stirring up gears a bit easier and modded the brake pedal to make stopping a little easier.

Oh, the fun we have !

Bill
 

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
Bill, how does the Alpine do on long trips comfort wise? I have both a new soft-top and the removable hardtop. Any suggestions about seats??
Paul A here - the stock Alpine/Tiger seats are just fine if rebuilt with new foam. I have driven many long days in my Tiger - several 500 plus mile days - and the seats are fine for long distance driving. I have also driven many long distance days in my V6 Alpine with Miata seats. Again, they are comfortable and just fine for long days. I concur with Bill regarding the hardtop - long distance with the hardtop is MUCH preferable to the soft top - for both climate control and noise control. As for contractors - again, I concur with Bill about payment upon completion of the job. I just built a new 24 x 30 shop and am waiting for some small items to be completed before I pay for it. Good luck with the Sunbeam....
 

PROCRAFT

Donation Time
wilwood

I'm finding the quality of Wilwood master cylinders to be on a par with the Alpine units, not good. My first cylinder was faulty out of the box, its replacement has turned the DOT 3 black and it is oozing out after about 30,000. Anybody know of a quality 5/8" rebuild kit that will fit the Wilwood master?

As you might have guessed, I know nothing about the interchangeability of rebuild kits.

Bill

A lot of the Wilwood masters are throwaways IE the 3/4 you might use for the clutch, we've always used the High Volume cylinders on our stuff, as to the Nissan you can also look at the Subaru deal and there's a Mustang one also that is duel channel, food for thought!
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Charles Johns, You received some very good comments to your questions.

I have a few comments to make also. During my time driving my "all stock" Alpines I was always keenly aware of the road noise generated whether I had the top up or down or whether the hard top was on the car or not.... The Hard top was a better choice for more extended travels unless I just wanted the openness :D

Since a major restoration accomplished on my '67 SV Commodore Blue I can do nothing but brag on the quietness and coolness I accomplished by the added preparation I did utilizing POR 15 for the base paint on all interior metals, Dynamat then Lizard Skin for the final covering.

The Alpine runs very quite and I can readily attest to the reduction in heat inside the cab. When fitted with the Hardtop it is as quite or quieter than my wife's toyota.

As a result of my work there, I am doing two others with perhaps even more attention to places I might have missed when installing the Dynamat and Lizard skin.

I have rebuilt the original Alpine seats utilizing all new materials from SS. No regrets! I am a gent 6'2" and find the "Originals" very comfortable even on trips of 100 -250 miles basically non stop. I found some of the seat backs in others Alpines not having been rebuilt sufficiently and at times tend to be a bit uncomfortable. I have also purchased a set of seats from a Miatia that will go in the Green1 I am building with the 2.8 V6,T5, EPS & A/C. It is a more modern and bit more custom with what is sometimes labeled a "Personal Touch"...

Wish you well with your Alpine,
 
Top