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Weber Carb Dilemma

H

howard

Donation Time
So the car runs. FAST and uneven. The mechanic for my transmission says get the carb fixed or it will destroy (and here's where you can fill in your choice of expensive parts... from the rear end to the tranny to whatever). He showed me the problem- the linkage appears to be wrong. Either upside down or just designed wrong. It doesn't allow the idle screw to get anywhere close to the stop. (Sorry- I should mention it's a Weber 32/36.) Somebody have pictures of their carb setup that will give me a clue as to the proper orientation of this thing? I didn't install this, somebody else did it for me 3 years ago, and it has passed through other mechanic's shops, so I have no idea if it was ever originally set up properly.:(
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
If a mechanic told me the carb could destroy any part of the car, aside from the engine, I'd run out of the shop. There are two basic 32-36 designs, one is the mirror image of the other, so that will have some impact on orientation. As far "proper" orientation is concerned, turn the darn thing 180* and see how things line up. Running uneven is not a function of orientation or throttle linkage.

I used a cable setup, so what I did will not be of much value to you.

Bill
 
RootesRich

RootesRich

Donation Time
PM me your e-mail address and I'll happily send you a pic of my linkage and orientation.

I agree with Bill, this mechanic sounds like an... <insert your choice of insult here>
 
serIIalpine

serIIalpine

Donation Time
I'm helping A local guy sort his series V which has the same weber setup minus the linkage so I would be interested in seeing both in a effort to find a solution.

Thanks.

Eric

'62 SerII
 
H

howard

Donation Time
Bill- The point he was making to me (and it's VERY obvious when you put the car in gear) was that the engine is so revved up when put into gear it yanks the snot out of the drivetrain. There's a portion of the carb with an idler screw that seems to be stuck in place behind the bracket for the choke cable. It ought to be able to idle the engine down after warming up... but it's not able to move into position.

I'm not much of a mechanic, so I may be all wet, but I cannot continue to drive the car like it is. It starts at about 5k RPMs, and redlines at approx. 35 MPH. It's not going to be long for the road like it is.
 
RootesRich

RootesRich

Donation Time
serIIalpine said:
I'm helping A local guy sort his series V which has the same weber setup minus the linkage so I would be interested in seeing both in a effort to find a solution.

Thanks.

Eric

'62 SerII
Click to expand...

PM me your e-mail address and I'll forward you the pics I just sent Von.
 
64beam

64beam

Donation Time
Hi Howard,

Attached are a few pictures of my setup. I think it is very close to what it should look like, so hopefully you can compare it with yours.

Regards, Robin.
 
Mikeflbmer

Mikeflbmer

Bronze Level Sponsor
Webber

Try unhooking your linkage and see if it acts normally...How about a return spring to help it idle down....Also I just put this carb an my Alpine and I notive that your verticle rod on your linkage is straight (as original) However, my experience is that you must bend it in a 1/2 circle (towards the center of car) to get full throttle range on the carb. Great carb once you get it right...mike
 
nickraymond

nickraymond

Donation Time
Just to clarify, is this an automatic? In which case the clunking in and out of gear from the higher engine revs could cause damage.
 
64beam

64beam

Donation Time
Hi Howard,

As has been mentioned regarding the movement of your linkage, check that you have full movement without it sticking. The brackets on the firewall only rely on the rubber bush to keep it in position and they can get a bit clunky. I had to do some repairs on my linkage to get it smooth and was I even thinking of modifying the firewall bracket to fit a bush or bearing.

Regards, Robin.
 
P

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
Hi all:

I am using a Weber 32/36 with my Series IV automatic. My linkage setup looks virtually identical to the photos already posted. I have a full range of movement with this setup.

Be careful that your kickdown cable to the transmission is adjusted correctly. As already posted, the clunking you are hearing could likely be from the transmission. You can do significant damage if the adjustment is incorrect. There are good directions regarding kickdown cable adjustment in the BW35 shop manual. If you do not have access to the manual let me know and I can copy the adjustment portion for you and send it down line to you.
 
nickraymond

nickraymond

Donation Time
Just to follow up on Paul's point.
My automatic also runs the 32/36 (I had a flat spot with the original solex).

Being an automatic, the mechanic makes a valid point about various locations on the drivetrain that will not enjoy that clunking, I've been told the same and the giant clunking that I imagine you are hearing if you are revving high will not prolong the life of the gearbox to say the least...!

How fast are you running? Keep in mind that the clunking can be caused by other things, the line pressure in the gearbox can cause the clunking (Line pressure is controlled by the adjustment on the kickdown cable).

I do these things though they are a bit bodger tips:

1. If you're going from drive to reverse try and do it quickly to not allow the revs to build up.

2. Sometimes if its winter and she's not warmed up I pump the brake a little bit before putting her into gear just to suck a bit of air from the carb to the brake servo and pull the revs down a couple of hundred.

Good Luck

Nick
 
H

howard

Donation Time
I spot-checked the linkage and choke connections today. I noticed the bracket I thought was in the way wasn't... the linkage was actually screwed on so tight, it wouldn't allow it to function. I loosened up the screw and shot some graphite lubricant into the pivot, and it started working as far as movement was concerned. I adjusted the choke (again, I'm no mechanic, so it'll need a professional to finish it up), and this time when I started up the engine it was SUBSTANTIALLY slower. Warmed up at about 1500 RPMs. Still runs rough, but I believe it's just needing to be fine tuned. Thanks to Rich and Robin for the photos.
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Do not return it to the grease monkey that could not diagnose the problem. You've already demonstrated your a better mechanic than he is. Maybe you do not have the training, but definitely brighter.

Are you familiar with the sites that gives details on adjusting the idle? Its really not that difficult.

Bill

BTW, warming up at about 1500 is good.
 
A

ArturoV

Donation Time
Sseries 4 automatic

nickraymond said:
Just to follow up on Paul's point.
My automatic also runs the 32/36 (I had a flat spot with the original solex).

Being an automatic, the mechanic makes a valid point about various locations on the drivetrain that will not enjoy that clunking, I've been told the same and the giant clunking that I imagine you are hearing if you are revving high will not prolong the life of the gearbox to say the least...!

How fast are you running? Keep in mind that the clunking can be caused by other things, the line pressure in the gearbox can cause the clunking (Line pressure is controlled by the adjustment on the kickdown cable).

I do these things though they are a bit bodger tips:

1. If you're going from drive to reverse try and do it quickly to not allow the revs to build up.

2. Sometimes if its winter and she's not warmed up I pump the brake a little bit before putting her into gear just to suck a bit of air from the carb to the brake servo and pull the revs down a couple of hundred.

Good Luck

Nick
Click to expand...

Hello, I seem to have the same Series IV automatic configuration that you have. Do you by any chance have an original Owner's Handbook? If so, I would like to obtain a copy. Please contact me at avserranto@hotmail.com.
ArturoV
 
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