bulldurham
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How about the use of a Volvo clutch cable, eliminating the slave. A fairly easy install and , of course, adjustable.
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Enjoy.
But I would still have the alignment issue. Don't have any Volvo clutch cable or parts, but do have a clutch master cylinder. Is the Alpine pedal easily adapted to the "pull" configuration? As near as I can tell (which is not much) the pedal on this car does not have any components that move toward the driver (pull action) when engaging.How about the use of a Volvo clutch cable, eliminating the slave. A fairly easy install and , of course, adjustable.
Agreed. There are a couple of pull cylinders under consideration. While the cable might accommodate the misalignment better than a cylinder, "doing" the clutch pedal and firewall mod would be no picnic. The layout of the '69 is such that I cannot even see the top of the clutch pedal and I do not want to modify the body.Bill,
If the Volvo uses a pull action for the clutch, have you considered a "pull slave" like the V6 guys use?
Making the mount for that slave system should allow the possibility to work out your alignment and operation a bit easier.
No need to reinvent the wheel.
Don
And whatever is necessary to make it all work. Nothing to it, just ask DanR.A co-axially mounted Hydraulic Throw-Out Bearing (HTOB) eliminates all of the linkage and alignment issues. A master cylinder on one end and a direct acting slave cylinder on the other end with a hydraulic line in between.
No clue. All I can say is that using the top two bell housing bolts as locators, my measurement found a 5 degree list, which I duplicated as best I could. The carb does not appear to be level, but there is precious little available to measure. Appearances can be deceiving.Bill arent the arrow series cars manifolds a 10° slant... Is the motor 5° and the manifolds 10 to face carbs slightly upward?
I really like the way you sawed these! How do you figure to align the center of Volvo input with Alpine crankshaft? Does the Alpine Bell Housing have dowel pins to keep it in place?Having thought about an adapter plate a little more, I'd better add that it would be a good idea to keep the hand crank handy!
Meanwhile, I'm making slow progress. Managed to locate the center of the Alpine Alpine bell at the front of the housing. This was a mechanlcal process, projecting a point out from the centering hole that aligns the bell with the transmission. Done mostly with milling machine setup tools. These are very precise items. Maybe not dinensionally, but are in squareness and parallel. Measuring from my located center to the bolt holes is not reassuring. .There is considerable variation, as if the holes were not accurately located at the factory. A particular instance: Holes A,B,C are adjacent to each other. A and C measure measure the same, B is way off. Also, the starter bolt holes are not located the same, not even with each other. I see no way that all this be the result of my center location, so I'm proceeding with the project.
Next up, sawing the bell housings in two. Yesterday I made an arbor to mount a plain, carpenters 7 1/4" carbide toothed saw blade in my mill. Mounting the bells on the mill should be s simple, "plop it down, bolt it in place and start sawing." operation. Just hole ti works out that way. That should be worth a picture or two.
Bill