Turn Signal Issue

[Pete S.]

Check your right signal housing for ground. They are notorious for working sometimes and then not
mainly because of the screws that hold them on. Sometimes if you have them too tight, they don't
seem to work. It's either that or your turn signal switch.

I run a dedicated ground on the front signal housings in my Tiger. Using a black wire, and Lucas bullets to ground bracket under the front hood bumper bolts. That bracket has two connections, only one used from the factory so it looks nice and tidy and works good too.

 

[hartmandm]

Did you try putting the 'right' wire where the working 'left' wire was?

Mike

 

[Eleven]

I should have just left it alone.
I traced the fault to the right front blinker bulb...one I had replaced. It was burned out but not in a way I have ever seen before. The filament was intact but there were black marks at the base. The white lens started to break apart when I put it back. Will never come off again because it will fall to pieces if touched. Once replaced, the right side worked but the left rear stopped. This is after 4 hours of work. Included in that was a look at the turn signal stalk. The surround crumpled it was so brittle. I checked and traced all the wires and connections but could find nothing wrong. So now my steering column has no surround. I pulled the left rear taillight to check the bulb (fine) (but replaced it anyway) and the gasket around the light crumpled. No weather gasket now. Eff it. I am not smart enough to fix this and have lost interest. Probably a good thing before something else falls apart.
Thank you everyone who tried to help! It is so much appreciated!

 

[hartmandm]

Sounds like you need a column surround, clear front lens, and a rear lens gasket. I think those are all easy to come by.

Take a day or two off and maybe you will get a new attitude.

Mike

 

[Eleven]

Ha! Maybe. The Brits' call it Bloody MIndedness but I hate stuff that doesn't work. It is also aggravating that these cars are not complicated.
So: The left front lights all work and flash.
The left rear turn signal does not.
The Dash light that indicates the flasher is working comes on and blinks for both sides. (it did not work on the right turn when the right side had the bad bulb).
That wire gets power through the flasher can which gets it from the steering column stalk when pulled down. It worked before.
Since the front left works but the left rear does not and since they are on the same circuit could I have somehow loosened the bullet connection? Will find out.
Thanks for lending an ear. I had a boss once that called it "Talking out loud"
The reality of this is when I finally sort it, it will be something stupidly simple.

 

[hartmandm]

You might have a bad connection in the left circuit. Use a multimeter to check the voltage for the left circuit - test at the connector under the dash where the rear wiring harness connects in, and then at the wire connecting to the rear housing. Green wire with red stripe.



Mike

 

[Eleven]

I am thinking along the same line but am not sure how to do a continuity test there. There is a single wire going aft, a wire to the front lights and one to the flasher switch. I was trying to figure out how to put a multimeter lead on both sides of the wire going aft...No? Everything works except the rear light. I changed the bulb again with my last new one. Nothing. I put a test light on the rear light connection and nothing is getting there. (test light works, checked it again the rear running light)
That narrows it down to the wire going aft being broken or the connection is bad. They are bullet connections in a tight space. Was eyeing how to pull them apart with out pulling off the bullet. Also, since the wires disappear into the harness I have to sort which is which. What I think you are saying is that I can do the test to the rear at the under dash connections?
But why did the light which was working fine stop once I got the rear light bulb changed? Maybe will never know.
Thanks, I am going out a bit later and I will look at the car and your photo.

 

[hartmandm]

You can insert a paper clip into the bullet connector under the dash and check continuity from there to the rear tail light connection. Or just measure the voltages at those connectors when the turn signal is engaged. (Black lead on your meter connected to a good ground and red lead on your meter connected to the 'connector'.) If your multimeter is digital you should see some non-zero voltage register for a fraction of a second each time the flasher can "flashes".

The bullet connectors are soldered on. You can usually pull the wire out of the connector and the bullet end will remain intact. Reinserting the connectors is the hard part. They make a special tool for that.

Mike

 

[Knightowl61]

Reinserting the connectors is the hard part. They make a special tool for that.
Mike

What is the special tool? I always struggle using needle nose pliers.

 

[Paul354]

Wire Harness Bullet End Closing Tool

Wire Harness Bullet End Closing Tool

mossmotors.com

 

[Eleven]

You can insert a paper clip into the bullet connector under the dash and check continuity from there to the rear tail light connection. Or just measure the voltages at those connectors when the turn signal is engaged. (Black lead on your meter connected to a good ground and red lead on your meter connected to the 'connector'.) If your multimeter is digital you should see some non-zero voltage register for a fraction of a second each time the flasher can "flashes".

The bullet connectors are soldered on. You can usually pull the wire out of the connector and the bullet end will remain intact. Reinserting the connectors is the hard part. They make a special tool for that.

Mike

Oh, I thought you had to touch both ends of the wire. I'll try that. Thx!

 

[Eleven]

OK. Attached a wire to the rear and ran it to the front. Attached the multi meter and got resistance; full disclosure, it could have been the way I had to connect everything. Got zero resistance from the other wires. So, disconnected the jumper wire and checked the bullet connectors, under the dash, for tightness. Bullets pulled out pretty easy. Pushing them back in they were okay except one that was pretty loose. I tried putting a slight crimp on it but think I probably over did it so am unsure what level of connection I have. I used to have a lot of connectors and bullets but could not find any (it is a 4 pot connector). I'll try to find a replacement and see if that is where the issue is.
As to reading the multi meter, am not expert so could have done it poorly.
Frankly, the only thing I know about electricity is how to create a dead short...don't tempt me.
Anyway, I have a wire in my electrical bin with a bullet on it. I'm going to set up a wire and run it to the light so see it that has any effect. Not right now, need a break as a smart guy once recommended...

 

[hartmandm]

Another tool option for less money is to search for "Ripca - Snip-Snap Tool". Pretty sure I bought mine off EBay in the past. It appears they are only available on EBay from UK sellers. Maybe do a more thorough web search ...

Tools - Ripca - Snip-Snap Tool (Inserting Nipples to Connectors)

Buy Tools - Ripca - Snip-Snap Tool (Inserting Nipples to Connectors) (Tools, Stripping Tools, Crimping Tools, Crimping Tools, Bullets & Covers) Today. See our great range of Ripca Products Online Here.

us.gsparkplug.com

britishwiring.com in the US sells the same tool as Moss Motors for $30, but it is listed as out of stock.

Mike

 

[Eleven]

Fixed it. As Mike suggested a bad connection; deep in the depths of Mordor. Worked in a new bullet connector.

Thank you all for your help!~