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Torque Steer

crs

crs

Gold Level Sponsor
"Polyurethane comes in varying durometers, and can also be machined if one is determined and gets a hard enough durometer (measure of density). It is also hydroscopic and will attract water. When it does, it will squeak like you have mice in bondage whenever you actuate the suspension. Slap your hand on a countertop and slide it. The squeak that you get is similar as it binds and snaps in rotation under load."

Thank you for solving the mystery of why my front end squeaks after I run through a puddle! That transient squeak has been very annoying, but apparently not damaging anything.

I will go back to rubber one day after all other to-dos are done.when
 
C

Charles Johns

Donation Time
Suspension

I feel like a third grader in high school! I spent 40+ years building street rods in a one man shop and have dozens of books on suspension, steering, brakes, wiring, etc. and ever got picked for a NSRA safety award at the Nationals. But all this high-tech writing sounded so good I read it all just for funzies! I do know that some of the guys who installed nylon bushings quickly went back to rubber if the car was a daily street driver. Thank God for those trees! My 65 Mustang six has gas shocks on all 4 corners and rides well at 2700 pounds. Rubber biscuits under the coils in front and nylon discs between the leafs in the rear seem to help also. Anyone run gas-charged shocks on their Beam? It seems like that is all one can buy these days. I'll go back to my third grade class now.
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Steering update!

Mr Bill,

Thought I'd do some checking on my car for the next trip. Actually one of the "first" since rebuild.

Found a front wheel bearing that needed a bit of tightening. Wonder why I didn't get it done right the first time?

Re-packed it, put it back together, then the other also. Maybe that is or was causing some sway motion when running on the "crown of the road"
 
tigretr

tigretr

Donation Time
My bet is either a front bushing on the leaf springs is worn / soft or the pin / bolt which goes through the leaf springs tying the springs together (and also used to locate the rear end on the springs) is worn or sheared and allowing the springs on one side to slide relative to each other thus giving you torque steer. Keep in mind that if your rear end is a one legger (not posi) then that can also impart torque steer as well.

The bushing thing: Replace all bushings with delrin bushings if possible. They won't squeak or flex and they are bullet proof. I just made new delrin bushings for all 4 of my A-arms and I love them.

The rear end: If it turns out to be a one legger issue I'll prime the crowd that I am a few months away from pulling my FORD 7.5" limited slip rear end (3.45:1) and selling it. With the exception of the drive shaft, it is a direct bolt in on your Alpines. Ill keep the forum posted.

I am replacing it with a FORD 8", parallel 4 link, watts link, coil overs on all 4 corners, and going to complete my Porsche brake system on the rear. Thus the reason for the 8". I need axles that have no end play unlike the 7.5 which uses axle clips.

Brian
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
tigretr said:
My bet is either a front bushing on the leaf springs is worn / soft or the pin / bolt which goes through the leaf springs tying the springs together (and also used to locate the rear end on the springs) is worn or sheared and allowing the springs on one side to slide relative to each other thus giving you torque steer. Keep in mind that if your rear end is a one legger (not posi) then that can also impart torque steer as well.

The bushing thing: Replace all bushings with delrin bushings if possible. They won't squeak or flex and they are bullet proof. I just made new delrin bushings for all 4 of my A-arms and I love them.

The rear end: If it turns out to be a one legger issue I'll prime the crowd that I am a few months away from pulling my FORD 7.5" limited slip rear end (3.45:1) and selling it. With the exception of the drive shaft, it is a direct bolt in on your Alpines. Ill keep the forum posted.

I am replacing it with a FORD 8", parallel 4 link, watts link, coil overs on all 4 corners, and going to complete my Porsche brake system on the rear. Thus the reason for the 8". I need axles that have no end play unlike the 7.5 which uses axle clips.

Brian
Click to expand...

Brian, If you haven't pulled the trigger as of yet, it is possible to grind the 1.400 axle journals down to a ball bearing compatible size that allows axial thrust. In fact I hear you can modify the axle case flanges to use 8 inch small bearing ends so you can eliminate the c-clip axle problems and not have
the known issues with the off the shelf c-clip eliminators.

IIRC Moser does this mod on 7.5 and 8.8 inch housings.
You are clever enough surely to do this yourself.
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
An update of this thread is in order. After replacing most of the rear spring bushings (not the rear frame mounted ones), giving the rear springs a "tune up" and tightening the steering gear mounting bolts, the torque steer is about 75% gone.

No idea what could be causing the remaining 25% as the car is in excellent mechanical condition.

Bill
 
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