Tonneau studs on the SV dash vents

[Jim in PA]

Hello again all. I seek advice on my new Tonneau cover to be installed soon.
The Tonneau cover requires two Lift-The-Dot studs on each of the two demister vents at the windscreen.
Since the trim shop guys are being paid hourly I thought I would install the four lift the dot studs myself to save them some time.
The original Phillips Head screws at each end of the vents come out easily enough with the offset screwdriver. The screw seems to be #10-32x 1/2 lg. as is the threaded shank of the dot stud from SS but...the lift the dot stud shank slips into the tapped hole without grabbing the threads and tightening down.
It may be that the threaded shank on the dot stud is too short to reach the tapped hole it's intended for.(?)
The Tonneau cover from SS came with studs that are only sheet metal screws, short and long, for the shank. They fall into and pull right out of the #10-32 holes at the end of the vents.
I have both #10-32 studs and sheet metal studs from SS too but they both don't reach and don't tighten. I see other #10-32 lift the dot studs at various websites but can't tell if they have longer threaded shanks. No spec is given...
I'm out of airspeed and altitude on this and may just let the professionals at the trim shop have at it.
Advice?

 

[65beam]

tonneau

if you have a series 5, the tonneau studs do not go into the defroster vent screw holes. you have the right lift a dot studs .two go in the center of the dash and one on each side . if you have a tonneau for a series 5 ,fasten it at the back and on the doors and you will see where the studs go . if the snaps are at the defroster vents, you do not have the tonneau for a series 5. this would be for series 1 thru early series 4 .

 

[alpine_64]

tonneau for a series 5. this would be for series 1 thru early series 4 .

A SI/II tonneau won't fit a S3-V alpine.. they are different from the B post forward, they dont have the 1/4 windows and hence a different profile at the front, they also attach to the windscreen frame and have no studs on the door.

 

[65beam]

tonneau

i'm quite aware of that michael since i own series 1,2,3,4and 5 cars . but you missed my point . some series 4 cars had the tonneau fasten at the vents . late 4's and 5 cars did not . i think he said he had a series 5 .

 

[alpine_64]

i'm quite aware of that michael since i own series 1,2,3,4and 5 cars . but you missed my point . some series 4 cars had the tonneau fasten at the vents . late 4's and 5 cars did not . i think he said he had a series 5 .

I was just making it clear that the SI/II cars were different as you could read what you wrote as the SVv being different to the I-IV as opposed to saying that if the cover is longer its an earlier car.. just clarifing it ..

oh and you fogot to mention your harringtons.. but i guess you dont use the tonneau on those

Maybe you should buy a tiger to complete the set... but you would need MKI, MKIGT, MKIA and MKII...

 

[65beam]

tonneau

michael,
did you say something ?

 

[alpine_64]

michael,
did you say something ?

Actually i wrote something.. but the odds of you being able to comprehend it are about the same as you knowing the first thing about sunbeams..

I guess you can take pride in one day being the longest term DPO..

best of luck on future projects

 

[65beam]

tonneau

michael,
i never liked tigers . too many problems .

 

[65beam]

tonneau

thanks michael,
our next project is setting on a cart at tiger auto . it goes in the rack after suni .it's been to the dipper and since it's a rust free body it should be a great car . saturday we picked up the series 5 that they have been working on . now on to suni !

 

[65beam]

tonneau

jim,
i hope you understand now why rick sent you the screw in type studs for your tonneau . lay it on the car and check to make sure what you have . especially around the door wing windows .where in PA are you located ? there might be someone close to you that could let you look at their car .

 

[Jim in PA]

Tonneau feedback

Thanks for the feedback folks.
The Tonneau I have is new in the box and has none of the fasteners attached. All fasteners are in a bag.
On my SV dash there are 4 screws on each of the two demister vents, 2 small sheet metal screws and two #10-32x 1/2" phillips head screws. The two sheet metal screws are too close to the windscreen to be of any use. The two #10-32 screws are set back far enough to use but still seem close enough to be a tight fit when fastening and unfastening the Tonneau.
I've been using photos of other Alpines as reference and I've seen the dash studs in what looks like the vent screw positions... (both ends of both vents and only the end of the vent near the middle of the dash pad.)
I've even seen photos of studs mounted in the middle of the dash pad, each about 2" off center and 3-4"back from the wind screen.
I would really like to see some photos of Tonneau's in place and of the dash showing the stud placement.
I have looked at my SV dash and can see no other spot to mount the studs unless I am to find a good spot and drill a hole and put the stud where it suits the cover best.
If I am to mount the dash studs any old place using the sheet metal screw studs then OK...the Trim shop guys should be able to manage well enough but if the machine screws at the vents are to be used as some photos suggest, I'll need a few more studs with #10-32 shanks.
I wasn't sure what the correct method is so I'm askin'.
Thanks again to you all for the guidance. I am still very new to Alpines having just had my first anniversary with my Alpine. I can't wait to get it back on it's wheels and on the road.
If someone could send or post photos of your Tonneau and your dash with the studs I would greatly appreciate it. If you are anywhere near SE PA/ Montgomeryville, PA I would love the opportunity to meet another Sunbeamer and see what's what with my own eyes. I may even install the %#@!* thing myself!
Jim in Colmar, PA

 

[65sunbeam]

On the later Sunbeam Alpines and Tigers they did not use the vent screws for the tonneau mounting studs-they fitted them going through the dash pad and they screwed into the top of the metal dashboard under the dash pad.
On my car I was not even going to drill a couple of holes into my brand new dash pad and I was going to use the vent screw holes to install the tonneau mounting studs. Then I realized that my original tonneau cover would have to have the lift a dot fasteners moved so I ended up not fitting any mounting studs at all and just let the tonneau cover sit on top of the dash. It works pretty well just like that. All of the original cars I have seen with mounting studs going through the original dash pads have splits and cracks in the vinyl cover on the dash pads at the base of the mounting studs. Eric

 

[Jim in PA]

Tonneau studs

Eric,
Thanks. One of the photos I have is just as you describe. I would like to avoid drilling thru the dash pad and causing cracks etc...
I may fabricate a couple of brackets that use the original #10-32 vent screws to mount to the car and install the studs on the bracket. I have some 316L stainless sheet metal panels that have jogged angles already there and can be cut to suit the application. It shouldn't look too bad. It should only need to be an inch long and half inch wide to do the trick.
I really don't want to cut or drill through the vinyl dash pad.
Thanks again for your feedback.
Jim

 

[Alpine Bob]

What I did on my Series II, was use the vent screws as the Tonneau was not long enough to reach the vent. I had an upholstery shop sew on tabs, it works fine now. I can speak about the studs in the dash pad, on my Series IV it's not cracking but the studs have worked out and made the holes in the metal too big to put the studs back in. So I do what Eric does, just lay it up on the dash and hope the wind doesn't blow too hard when it's raining.

 

[Jim in PA]

Tonneau

Bob,
Thanks for the great idea on the Tabs/straps. That may be the best approach. The only thing is the $#@! studs I have are too short to reach all the way down to the threads in the dash to grab and hold. I may be stuck making the small tabs to fasten to the vent screws and have the studs mounted to the tab. It would give me a little more room for my hand to snap the cover on and off instead of reaching all the way to where the vent screw is.
Thanks again.
Jim

 

[Alpine Bob]

Jim,
There are longer studs available, you might check with Rick @ss or Curt @ CS. When the UP shop put the stud receptacles on they mounted them side ways so you didn't have to squeez into the windshield to get them loose.

 

[65beam]

tonneau

i have found the longer thread studs at upholstery shops that work on boats . most shops carry the lift a dot fasteners so check around and find studs that have threaded sections the length of the vent screws . another thing we have done to a couple cars is to make a change at the studs near the trunk lid .this area is a double panel ,so tiger auto cut a hole in the bottom panel so that we could use studs that we could put a nut and lock washer on to hold the studs tight . we also used nuts at the studs near the door wing windows . also use fiber washers under the studs .

 

[Jim in PA]

Tonneau

Thanks again Alpine Bob and 65beam...
I may have found the studs with #10-32x 1/2" long shank. Most Boat cover websites only listed #8-32 shanks. In a few min here I'll be revisiting the website and ordering the #10-32x1/2". The studs from Rick at SS are #10-32x3/8" so they just don't reach the tapped hole in the dash panel.
All other studs and snaps on the car are in place maybe from a previous Tonneau so the ones that came with the new Tonneau will be spares. If any ever come loose I'll be sure to make the hole in the lower panel at the back near the trunk so I can use the studs with #10-32 shanks. Even with the studs in the dash vents I may find we need to add the tabs Bob mentioned. We'll see next week.
For now I have the Fatmat in place and blackout paint on the spots where the carpet doesn't cover I need to install the newly reupholstered seats, push the beast outside, add fuel and check the newly refurbed and relined fuel tanks and tubes for leaks. The battery is charged and ready to fire the engine. I can't wait! Getting close now.