As part of my V6 project, I’m upgrading to DanRs rear disc brakes, which required pulling the hubs. Replaced the ring gear bolts while everything was apart. Replacing one of the half shafts that was buggered up from a POs attempt to remove hubs. Everything is clean, painted and ready for reassembly. Got to thinking, does it make sense to apply antiseize between the hub and axle shaft to make a future disassmbly easier should the need arise? Seems like the woodruff key and torqued hub nut are what keep things in place, so antiseize shouldn’t affect anything. Am I wrong?
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Enjoy.
SV Hub Assembly
- Thread starter Beamin
- Start date
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
An interesting and thoughtful idea, but the law of unintended consequences may apply. Using anti-seize to eliminate "stiction" between the axle shaft and the hub might / should make removing the hub easier in the future, but that would logically (look up what Robert Heinlein said about logic) put more shear load on the Woodruff key. Maybe a problem and maybe not. Sometimes the only answer is "try it and see what happens."
husky drvr
Platinum Level Sponsor
Anti-seize on axle hubs is on the same level as putting anti-seize on ball joint tapered studs or Morse taper tools in a mill.
Think about it.
Think about it.
Also remember that stock, 50 y.o. stock Woodruff keys have been known to shear. Given the difficulty of removing hubs, that sounds impossible.
Bill
Andy,
I would not recommend this. The purpose of machined surfaces is to make as close a contact as possible. Even a very thin coating of Neverseize will create 2 unwanted outcomes: a gap; and lubrication. But consider this, too:
Realistically, how often you expect to again separate the hub from the axle in the future?
And the PO who butchered the end of your axle was either an idiot or he lacked the proper tools/knowledge (likely all 3). Once you got the axle I sent you, you found it was free any damage or distortion because I have the right tool and used the correct procedure.
Just for giggles, you might consider posing a pic of your damaged threaded end to show what you were dealing with.
Mark ..... v
Well, seems like a majority are leaning towards “not a good idea”. And Mark is right. Hopefully this is a one and done situation for me where I won’t have to worry about this for another 50 years or so. And also per Mark’s suggestion, here you go. When all else fails, use a bigger hammer.
Knightowl61
Gold Level Sponsor
Several years ago I thought I spun a wire wheel and decided to go to steel wheels. I could still drive it at light power, but could hear/feel it slip at normal/high power pulling out from a stop. Upon pulling the hub (still a bugger pulling it) the woodruff key was sheared.
Since I did spin the splines back in the 80's I was always thinking of converting to steels since all my wire hubs & wheels are used..
Since I did spin the splines back in the 80's I was always thinking of converting to steels since all my wire hubs & wheels are used..