SV hand crank and 6 bladed fan

[Henry K]

Hi all,

I.m looking for an engine hand crank and a 6 bladed fan for my 1967 SV. I had previously bought a crank through this forum, but it is too short. Therefore, I would request the measurements of one that may be for sale. Thanks.

Henry

 

[RootesRacer]

Hi all,

I.m looking for an engine hand crank and a 6 bladed fan for my 1967 SV. I had previously bought a crank through this forum, but it is too short. Therefore, I would request the measurements of one that may be for sale. Thanks.

Henry

While the 6 bladed fan is a nice safer addition, the crank setup in general is a liability. You cannot properly tighten the crank bolt with the crankable bolt and so the bolt is loose and cracks the keyway on the harmonic balance.

If you find a hand crank, put it in the trunk for show and if you have that nasty crankable bolt, get it off and replace it before it does damage.

 

[Henry K]

Wow. Thanks for that advice. I truly appreciate the information. I wanted the crank so I could turn the engine over to do a preliminary set of the rocker clearances for the valves. (I'm still assembling the engine and haven't started it yet.)

Henry

 

[SIVAllan]

There are two types of nut for use with the hand crank handle.

One is a "mushroom" nut that may require a special thin or offset wrench to properly tighten.

I don't have such a wrench and use a super big pipe wrench to tighten (and loosen) such nuts.

The other type nut can be tightened with a deep well socket approx. 1 1/4" in size and should be torque-able, providing no liability.

I crank my car now and then with the hand crank but mostly keep the factory hand crank bolt in place to enable use of the hand crank as a backup to the starter.

Before installing a Pertronics distributor I also used the hand crank to turn the engine for setting the points or setting the engine to TDC.

Just my 0.02 cents worth

 

[RootesRacer]

There are two types of nut for use with the hand crank handle.

One is a "mushroom" nut that may require a special thin or offset wrench to properly tighten.

I don't have such a wrench and use a super big pipe wrench to tighten (and loosen) such nuts.

The other type nut can be tightened with a deep well socket approx. 1 1/4" in size and should be torque-able, providing no liability.

I crank my car now and then with the hand crank but mostly keep the factory hand crank bolt in place to enable use of the hand crank as a backup to the starter.

Before installing a Pertronics distributor I also used the hand crank to turn the engine for setting the points or setting the engine to TDC.

Just my 0.02 cents worth

You really cant put enough torque on the crankable nut, pipe wrench or not.
Most of us have found you need to use an impact wrench to secure it so it doesnt loosen later.

 

[sunbby]

Wow. Thanks for that advice. I truly appreciate the information. I wanted the crank so I could turn the engine over to do a preliminary set of the rocker clearances for the valves. (I'm still assembling the engine and haven't started it yet.)

Henry

I think most of us just put the car in 4th gear and roll it forward or backwards, usually using the front wheel while watching the engine.

I can't see it here at work, but I believe one of the Invasion tech sessions shows the technique.

http://www.sunbeaminvasion.com/invasion-Video.htm

 

[SIVAllan]

You really cant put enough torque on the crankable nut, pipe wrench or not.
Most of us have found you need to use an impact wrench to secure it so it doesnt loosen later.

If the issue is "looseness" and a torque wrench solves the problem -- or an impact wrench solves the problem - the problem is solved...

This issue does not appear to apply to the nut that is wrench-able but mainly to the mushroom nut which needs a special wrench nobody seems to own.

But if the engine is out of the engine bay and is sitting on a bench with plenty of space available, I suspect that a 3 foot pipe wrench will solve the problem even for the mushroom style nut

Opinions vary but the hand crank goes to originality and in my view is just plain cool to keep this factory function available and safe through use of proper wrenches .

Rolling the car to get the rockers set for valve adjustment is a known mechanics trick, and works fine. I'm not saying otherwise, only that the rolling trick is superfluous given the hand crank that the factory put in each Alpine boot.

 

[Ragg Mopp]

I have a spare 6 blade fan that you can have.

 

[George Coleman]

Not all Alpine V had hand cranks, somewear towards the end of production Chrysler cut that out!

 

[Henry K]

Hi Greg. Your mailbox is full. Can you PM me when you get a chance. Thanks.

Henry

 

[Ragg Mopp]

Henry,
Not sure what is going on. My mailbox is mostly empty and when I tried to PM you got a full message on yours. Try sending me an e-mail instead and lets see if that works.

 

[RootesRooter]

You'll need a 1-5/16" deep socket, as the pulley bolt is a goofy Whitworth size. 1-1/4" SAE is slightly too small. If your engine's pan is still off, you can pin the crank and apply all the torque you need to the bolt. If it's out of the car, you can pin the flywheel. If everything's together, you're limited to how much torque you can apply before the clutch starts to slip.

 

[puff4]

As noted in a previous thread which is centered around starting nuts I posted the following, which may be helpful (edited here for clarity & correctness)...

The pipe-style starting nuts can indeed be torqued with a 1-5/16" deep socket... PROTO Tools makes the proper item, and it's available via Grainger:

Grainger Catalog Link for Socket // 1-5⁄16" size // 29⁄32" deep // 3/4" drive // Proto #5542 // Grainger #1AP49 // $25.15

I'm almost certain nobody else makes a socket with the sufficient depth... I did a *lot* of research to find that one, and I've actually used it for the job, so it's a sure thing.

However, these mushroom nuts would probably require a crows-foot attachment for proper torquing (with requisite recalculation of the torque), and I'd imagine the size is the same (1-5/16") though that bears checking. IMHO, I would not use a pipe wrench, though, since the Alpine crank pullies are already subject to failure via cracking... no sense risking over-torquing.

Grainger Catalog Link for Crow's Foot

As for late SV cars, IIRC they came with a plain nut with a flange... i.e. no starting nut capability... and it is also 1-5/16". I have one on my car, and I'm pretty certain it's original on my # B395015623.

 

[Alpine 1789]

You can also just go to Autozone and 'rent' a 34 mm Axle Nut Socket through their loan a tool program (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp?bodyContent=wheelAndAxle). It is a loose fit, but worked fine for me.

 

[Henry K]

SV engine hand crank

I'm still looking for an engine hand crank for my 1967 SV. I've finished assembling the engine but can't get it started ...... which is hard to understand since I rebuilt the thing myself!! I'd like to turn it over with a hand crank as I set the gaps etc. Thanks all.

Henry K

 

[twautomotive]

Hand Crank

I have a spare hand crank. Please send an e-mail to me. Thanks.
tom (TWAutomotive)

 

[George Coleman]

I have some repro handcranks, I had them made up 20 years ago from an original!