Steering toe-in ?

[Toyanvil]

Years ago when I had my motor out I installed a new center tie rod, the one with ball joints. The car drove and steered great after the install, now 6 years later I noticed the inside edge of the tires are wearing more then the rest of the tire. I can not find anyone in town that will align an old car, so I will try to do it at home. Today I built a jig to measure the distance between the tires. I marked the center of each tire and measured the distance across the back then the front, the front is 3/8" wider then the back which explains the wear on the inside edge of the tires. The factory specs show 1/8" toe-in, is that an 1/8" total or each side with a total of 1/4"? Reading the manual it looks like it should a 1/4" wider in the rear of the tires, but that seems like to much. Here is the jig I built.

 

[husky drvr]

The factory specs show 1/8" toe-in, is that an 1/8" total or each side with a total of 1/4"?

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Toyanvil​

It should be total. You are measuring the difference between front and rear of opposing tires - not the center line of the car. The only thing the car center line should be a reference for is to verify the steering is pointed straight ahead.

On that note , it is imperative the steering be set to "straight ahead" and not angled to one side when measuring or the Ackerman effect comes into play. Also, be aware the molded tread is not usually a good reference for the center line of the tire. You should mark a line around the tires for your reference to make measurements. Possibly a better method would be to pull the wheels and use a pair of plywood disks or similar substitute position indicators for the T/W combination.

If you should have that much true "toe-out," your Alpine should be fun in an autocross but starting to be a bit unstable (skittish) for high speed, straight line driving. One other thought, you might want to check for wear in the right side steering relay pivot and other suspension wear points. If your toe setting has changed 1/2 inch since last set, that's a large change. Don't be surprised if you find something worn or damaged.

Just a few thoughts,

 

[jumpinjan]

... the steering be set to "straight ahead" and not angled to one side ... a better method would be to pull the wheels and use a pair of plywood disks or similar substitute position indicators for the T/W combination.

Maybe try using some bare wheels and measure to the edge of the rims. I center the steering box and re-clock the steering wheel if off and then get one wheel straight and then adjust the toe-in on the oppose side wheel. Have you checked castor & camber?
I bought two wheel alignment bubble gauges from Summit, and they can do all three alignments. They cost about $70 each but V/G quality!
You are correct that NOBODY will do alignment on Sunbeam or any car that needs shims. So I decided to do it myself and made the best decision.
Jan

 

[sunalp]

These are all great ideas! Luckily, I have a local shop that specialized in classics. Not real cheap
but they're really good!

 

[spmdr]

Check at least twice for every adjustment...

...and that is after Neutralizing the car.

And if you are really serious, the drives/passengers/load weight needs to be simulated.

DW

 

[Toyanvil]

Thank you for all the input, I got it all done today and it drives great. Each side took one full turn to get to 1/8 tow-in, then 1/6 turn in on one side and 1/6 turn out on the other to get the steering wheel straight.

 

[Mike O'D]

The manual also says to put a bunch of weight on the front end before taking measurements. Anybody actually do that?

 

[jumpinjan]

The caster might be affected with additional weight and might affect the ride with bias-ply tires, I wouldn't worry too much what they say.
Jan

 

[todd reid]

My old mechanic always put two hundred pounds on the drivers floor to mimic the weight of the driver before doing an alignment.