Static timing (Pertronix): please confirm

[hopsedge]

Can someone please confirm the following order of operations for setting the static timing of a Pertronix ignition?

1. Connect a test lamp between coil (-) and earth.
2. Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation until the desired timing marks line up.
3. Loosen the distributor clamp so you can turn the distributor housing.
4. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position and return to the distributor.
5. Turn the distributor body COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the test lamp turns OFF.
6. Turn the distributor another 10 to 20 degrees COUNTERCLOCKWISE.
7. Now SLOWLY turn the distributor body CLOCKWISE... SLOWLY.
8. STOP the instant the test lamp turns back ON.
9. Lock the distributor down so it cannot turn and turn the ignition key to the OFF position.

With the test lamp wired between coil (-) and earth, it will turn OFF when your module is at the equivalent to "points closed" and the light will turn ON when the module is at the equivalent of "points open.

Now, can someone also please describe #1 using different words? Please assume you’re speaking with someone very unfamiliar with test lamps in general and entirely unfamiliar with how a distributor works. If a test lamp has only a single clamp and a pointed end opposite, how does one connect it to the (-) terminal of the coil AND earth?

Additionally, with electronic ignition do you rotate the only thing that rotates beneath the dizzy cap to generally align with #1 plug, as you might have done with points?

Sorry for the “idiot’s” questions, but this is really buggering me. Thx.

 

[Scotty]

Following

 

[beamdream]

OK, here goes,
Whether it be - points open, points closed or light on, light off - it's all about breaking the current flow momentarily through the coil to produce a spark at the plugs.

With your test lead connected between the coil and earth, you can witness the interruption of this flow when moving the distributor and putting the ignition switch in run.

As you're probably aware this should happen when #1 is around top dead centre, which you observe via the timing marks. At the same time you want the rotor button pointing towards the #1 plug lead in the distributor cap, obviously with the cap on you can't see this, so make a mark (chalk ?) on the distributor body adjacent #1 then remove the cap to view the rotor whilst positioning the distributor.

It's not imperative that the rotor is precisely positioned, as you're setting static timing, being in the ball park at this stage is sufficient. Once running, you will fine tune with a timing light.

Hope this makes sense and good luck.

 

[hopsedge]

Ok Beamdream, that’s all good. But can we talk more about the “test lead connected b/t coil (-) and earth?” I have a continuity tester, which I think is the same as a test lamp (aka test lead, test light). If I am misunderstanding that, then there’s my problem. If I am not misunderstanding that, I am unclear how to attach the single clamp of that test lamp to both the coil (-) AND earth. There is only that single clamp. Do I alligator clip the opposing pointed end of the test lead to earth?

 

[beamdream]

Short answer - Yes

 

[Tom H]

Hopsedge , It assume your test lamp/test lead is like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/JASTIND-Automotive-Extended-Replacement-Indicator/dp/B07Q3622FT/ref=asc_df_B07Q3622FT?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920806880888&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520385693266&psc=1

Understand that the most common way to use this is to attach the clamp to ground and then poke around with the sharp tip to see where there is power and where there is not. I am surprised to see that kits like these usually do not include an alligator clip that would fit over the pointy tip for cases when you need to anchor both ends for testing, like setting the static timing. But you can certainly do what you did and clip the included clamp to the coil + and then use an alligator clip to anchor the test tip to ground. Most of these test leads, even LED ones, are not polarity sensitive.

Tom