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Series II Front Suspension

LarryN

Diamond Level Sponsor
The mechanic who rebuilt my Series II a few years back informed me that the front suspension needs rebuilding. Having avoided most suspension work beyond replacing the shocks, I have now (perhaps foolishly) agreed that I will remove the front suspension, he will install the new bushings, etc., and I will re-install. Oh yeah, I have to buy the parts.

The first question is whether to remove the whole thing as a unit (front crossmember, etc.) or to break down each side and give him the parts? The unit approach has some appeal since there will be fewer bolts to unstick, however it looks to be pretty heavy and awkward to handle. I've looked at past threads here and seen both approaches - any suggestions?

Next question is where to get parts - Rick says he doesn't have much and can't get more, so my usual source is out. Has anybody bought parts lately? Also - are rebuild A-arms available?

Thanks
larry
 

Series3Scott

Co-Founder/Past President
Platinum Level Sponsor
I would drop the whole assembly as a unit. It's not that heavy and two people can lift it and move it pretty easily.

Early series front suspension parts are getting hard to find in the States so I would recommend checking the UK suppliers, especially Speedy Spares.

I'm not aware of anyone offering rebuilt a-arms but you might check with Alpine West Midlands.
 

Hillman

Gold Level Sponsor
Funny, a SII front end rebuild is on my winter project list.

I've only dropped the suspension from my SI parts car, but it was fairly simple and straightforward compared to working under the car. My vague plan is to do the work on the spare cross member and swap.

Some early front end pieces can be had at http://rootesparts.com/ . I have purchased but not installed their upper fulcrum pins. After installation I`ll have an opinion on quality. I think a local machine shop can probably make any simple brass bushings. Time will tell.

It would be nice if you can update your experiences in this thread as you go.

Al
 

jumpinjan

Bronze Level Sponsor
If the cross member hasn't been removed in decades, your aluminum wedges are probably bad. I'm not sure who sells them now.
Also, the early cars have shims, so please take as much time to document their location and replace them back in order.
Jan
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
......... I've looked at past threads here and seen both approaches - any suggestions?

Larry, HAve you given any thought as to utilizing a SIV or SV?

Perhaps some of the "other" guys can answer if the change would work.

Might be worth while due to the fact that the SI -II-III parts are becoming more difficult to obtain.
 
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volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
If it were me I (also) would find a suspension from a later-production car (IV/V) and swap the complete assembly since it would be a bolt on match and the parts are much easier/cheaper to source. The early suspensions utilized tie brackets to fasten the upper crossmember to the frame but unless you plan to autocross I wouldn't sweat it.

Mark
 

LarryN

Diamond Level Sponsor
Series II suspension

I'm liking the idea of swapping the existing Series II suspension for a later version - any suggestions on where to get a Series IV or V set-up?

I can rebuild it off the car and then do the swap - that has a lot of advantage for me.
 

Hillman

Gold Level Sponsor
Wrong thread, late crossmember in early car

Sorry guys, I posted this in another (wrong) thread. Here goes.
---------------------------------------

Thanks to SDuncan I have one. Now I get to ask questions. The new one looks pretty good. It has fairly good paint even.

1) Do I blast & paint it?
2) Most parts seem ok. My intent was to replace EVERY moving part. Is that still a good idea? Urethane stuff?
3) I bought the c-member from a Tiger guy. He recommended welding the upper ball joint carrier to the C-member according to a TEAE tech tip. Good/bad idea?
4) The same or similar tech tip recommended fabricating a grease fitting for the fulcrum pins if one goes urethane. Can't be bad, but other opinions.
5) New one had no sway bar. Will the SII one be enough for a bit of 'aggressive' street driving, and/or will it fit?

Jan also mentioned:
If the cross member hasn't been removed in decades, your aluminum wedges are probably bad. I'm not sure who sells them now.
Also, the early cars have shims, so please take as much time to document their location and replace them back in order.

I'm guessing the shims mentioned are the ones that control camber. The wedges are another thing. I've only removed one C-member from a car and that was an SI. It didn't have any. The SV WSM mentions wedges which, I think, control castor. Should I have any on my SII and if so, ho they 'match' the body or c-member?

Thanks

Al
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