Charles Johns
Donation Time
I have always run wires before doing body work and after installing the engine. If you have been afraid to do your own wiring, it is not that hard if done one circuit at a time. My Ford 2.3 has ZERO computers...by design. Even now, decades after the use of computer controlled engines, they are still the major problem of car shutdowns. After about a decade the engineers decided to add a "limp mode" so Joe Driver could at least get to a service station. I LOVE computers and worked with electronics for 20 years on TV, stereo, antennas, VCR, satellites, and all home entertainment devices. I just got tired of chasing electrons with a oscilloscope and signal generator. One cannot see the little buggers...unless they ARC, then it is usually too late. My 2.3 has a carb but no heat source for the choke, so an electric one is installed. Running wires NOW allows safer and easier location and attachment. Make sure NOTHING will chafe the wire once installed, it is of sufficient size for the job, and once mounted it can be accessed if necessary. Way too many car guys run wires where they are not seen, and it LOOKS GREAT. However it sucks wind if a problem develops on the road, and I build drivers. Those flex-wrap looms are great for covering wires, and ADEL clamps hold things in place. Tie-wraps work great also but if using as a permanent locater, get the ones with an anchoring hole...they are designed for that. ANY place wires pass through a hole in metal use a rubber grommet...or make one with tubing. The same holds true for fuel lines. Use relays on heavy draw items like radiator fans, some headlights/fog lights, etc. and make sure each circuit can handle the job. The amps or watts should be marked on the item. Done properly it is a slow process but one can actually save money too. My 65 Mustang harness was about $800.00 but I wired the complete car for about $250.00. That was 10 years ago.
