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Removing Speedometer Bezel

Discussion in 'Huskies, Imps, Rapiers, Fastbacks, etc.' started by Bill Blue, May 15, 2022.

  1. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Too be blunt - How is it done?
    First, is the painted steel band a permanent part of the bezel? We (includes Barb) assume it is.

    This is where we are in the process.
    The tabs on the back of the bezel have been loosened.
    The painted steel band rotates in relation to the can.
    Rotating the steel band, We encounter spots where the rotation is very free and a couple of spots appear to line up. However, nothing can be removed. It appears that removal requires the lip on the steel band be pried up and over the lip of the can. Is this correct?

    Reading the on-line instructions, it seems the bezel should practically fall off in our hands, It most emphatically does not!

    Bill
     
  2. sunalp

    sunalp Platinum Level Sponsor

    You have to pry them apart as more years than I'd like to think have passed since it's been
    taken apart last. There isn't anything attached to the bezel. The rubber O rings kinda melt in there
    and you have to pry them apart and remove the remaining goo on the inside of the bezel. I've had them where
    the glass was stuck by the O ring as well. Time and patience are your friend here.
     
  3. Tom H

    Tom H Platinum Level Sponsor

    Bill, I don't understand what you mean about the "painted steel band". The bezel is chrome plated. You say you can rotate the bezel to where a "couple of spots appear to line up". The 6 tabs on the bezel are 60 degrees apart and will line up with all the notches at every one of the 6 positions. Once lined up they bezel usually will be removed somewhat easily. Perhaps someone replaced the original inner seal with some silicone sealant? In which case it may take a bit of prying. Or maybe you have a non-original bezel? The only painted steel band is the flat black inner shroud that is sealed to the underside of the glass. But, as I noted above, someone may have put silicone seal under the bezel and it may well seal the 3 pieces, shroud, glass, and bezel together, But even then, since they are able to rotate positions around the can it should be able to be removed as one assembly- once you line up the tabs with the notches in the can

    Tom
     
  4. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Mystery somewhat solved. The speedo is from the '69. which while employing a visibly similar Smith's unit, uses "new and improved and slightly" different shell construction. This is what I have and deconstructed. All that remains is to reassemble, which means bending the lip back into place while assembled. The can has a lip pointing up, the steel band a lip pointing down. Maybe I'll need some E6000 to silence rattles. Shouldn't take much more than a day or so.

    Bill
    IMG_8199.JPG
     
  5. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    Mr Bill, I think I have a '69 - '70 Tach you can have if you wish,
     
  6. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Dan, that would great, but where do I put the temp gauge and oil light?
    Bill
     
  7. DanR

    DanR Diamond Level Sponsor

    That seems to be a legit question:). Don't remember the layout of the dash,
     
  8. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    The dash layout is similar to the Series Alpine's, but with the tachometer replaced with a mostly blank, black circle containing the temp gauge and a low pressure oil light warning. The best, (perhaps only) solution would be to source a stand alone temp and oil pressure gauge from a GT model and place them in their own subpanel, placed where the hazard switch and two warning lights are now placed. A general reconfiguration of the dash. A huge problem is the fact the dash panel is a real pain in the pazookas to remove and replace. Big, BIG time pain.

    Maybe as a distant future, (from the grave?) project.

    Bill
     
  9. husky drvr

    husky drvr Platinum Level Sponsor

  10. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    I agree that a different dash would be the best solution, but 600 bucks for a less than pristine example - I think not. In fact, I am pretty happy with the current solution, a 2" tach mounted on the steering column. I thought I had a photo of it, but cannot find it. Will post a photo as soon as the dash is reinstalled. I am currently waiting on the delivery of a new speedometer cable. The speedo input bush was frozen, leading to a twisted off cable. Got it freed up and lubed, using Gibbs penetrating oil. Works very nicely now.
    Bill
     
  11. RootesRooter

    RootesRooter Platinum Level Sponsor

    What condition is your current dash in? Photo?
     
  12. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    About as good as you could expect from a part that has been installed for over 50 years. Showing some signs of brittleness. No photos on file, will post some once the dash is back in place.

    Bill
     
  13. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Photo of the working area of the dash. It was taken to illustrate the utility of the 2" Ebay tach. It obscures the fuel gauge, but is viewable if I raise my head a bit. The fuel gauge, which was totally unresponsive, now reads 1/4 when nearly full. I have no idea how to access the sender. The speedo now works, but is 20% fast. The odod packed it up at 18 miles. How does one fix that problem?
    IMG_8209.JPG
    Bill
     
  14. husky drvr

    husky drvr Platinum Level Sponsor

    Bill,

    Did both sections of the odometer stop functioning, or just the trip odometer stopped functioning?

    Don
     
  15. Bill Blue

    Bill Blue Platinum Level Sponsor

    Both. I think I know what is happening. As the speedo input shaft rotates, a tiny, nylon finger contacts a gear wheel on the trip odo and pushes it a tiny bit. The finger retracts and the process repeats. The problem is the finger does not always contact the wheel. The finger is nylon and the supposed integrity of the nylon keeps the finger in proper position. Well, it doesn't and often does not contact the wheel. That stops all odo movement, as the trip mechanism powers the total mechanism. I tired attaching small springs to keep the finder in contact. Total failure on my part. Is there a kit available to fix this problem?

    Bill
     

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