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Rebuilt engine fire up

A

AndreaG

Donation Time
Ok, so its been a long time coming but I am going through the final checklist for the first fire up of a newly rebuilt engine. I think we've done everything we can to get this engine 100%.
  • Engine was bored .030 over and everything that could be new, is new.
  • I have rewired the car with a EZ kit.
  • All the gauges are hooked up.
  • The distributor has the pertronix coil and pointless kit.
  • I have a low psi electric fuel pump under the trunk pan.
  • The radiator was tested and cleaned up.
  • The oil cooler was thoroughly cleaned and tested at Pacific Oil Coolers - top notch job there...
  • We have the single weber kit from Sunbeam Specialties on there...
  • The stainless exhaust from VB...

I plan on using Castrol 20w50 with a bottle of ZDDP additive for break in.

Is there anything I should do aside from the norm?

The only thing I can think of is to fill the oil cooler and new hoses with oil just so there are no dry spots or delays getting oil everywhere.

 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
I would use a lighter oil for break in, like 10W-30, or straight 30. The tolerances will be tight, and the thinner oil will lubricate better. After you get about 500 miles on it, you can go to a bit heavier oil.

Jose
 
bernd_st

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
For packing the oil pump it might be a bit late with everything in situ so would recommend you to unscrew the oil filter and pour oil into the various bores while turning the engine backwards (ignition disconnected ). It ensures your pump being primed before first start...
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Disconnect the two oil cooler lines from the filter block and fill the cooler and hoses with oil from both ends. Plus remove the filter and fill the filter block wih oil. then re-attach and crank with plugs removed unti you see a little movement of the oil pressure gauge.

Tom
 
A

AndreaG

Donation Time
Thanks for all the advice. Oh I forgot to add...

Before the machine shop gave it to me, we filled it with oil and cranked it until oil was fully circulated. Mind you this was 2 years ago, but we have been diligent about turning the engine regularly. I plan on draining the oil and refilling with the Castrol 20w50 prior to start up...
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
IMO 20w50 is a bit thick for a break in.

Whenever I do a break in, I use sae30 racing oil, which is low in detergents.
Racing oil helps the rings and cam/followers break in faster.
The thicker oil is not going to help the cam/followers break in, you need a lesser film thickness for that.
 
A

AndreaG

Donation Time
I reread the replies. It sounds like 10w30 racing oil is what I need. I knew I could find my answers here. Thanks
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
AndreaG said:
I reread the replies. It sounds like 10w30 racing oil is what I need. I knew I could find my answers here. Thanks
Click to expand...

Or just straight SAE30 oil. Not sure if you can even buy racing multigrade oil, but my opinion is to avoid multigrades for the break in.
The viscosity improvers are wrecked pretty quickly due to the higher friction and shear particularly of the ring break in.

I have found that multigrade oils tend to loose their high temp viscosity as the polymers are broken by the engine.
What you end up with is much thinner oil than you probably would want to run in summer heat.

The engine was designed to run on SAE30, you cant hurt it with that.
Come winter you can consider 10W30.
 
M

mattinoz

Donation Time
I see from the picture you seem to have your heater hoses going straight from the water pump, thru the heater rad and back to the head. It's going to get pretty inside the cab without a tap in the circuit to turn off :eek:
 
Eleven

Eleven

Platinum Level Sponsor
I am going to guess you are going to get vapor lock in your fuel line and filter judging where they are placed (right over an exhaust manifold). Am jealous of your engine bay. It looks really nice!
 
Last edited:
A

AndreaG

Donation Time
Thanks for the compliment!

This is just for fire up... I plan on eventually adding a control switch for the heater hose and if vapor lock becomes an issue I'll make a new fuel line.
 
A

AndreaG

Donation Time
By the way, once I figured out some ignition wiring issues, she fired right up and is running very nicely. Another Alpine lives again.

Now its off for body work and paint!

:D
 
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