Rapier stainless rear glass removal

[Filister]

Hi all. Need advice on removing the back glass trim on my 57 Rapier. Specifically the y shaped trim in each corner that covers the 2 main pieces and goes forward to the drip rail . I see one nut on the inside holding a clip in place. It seems like the y piece should just slide forward.
It can't come straight out because it's behind the drip rail. The rubber gasket is rock hard and I don't want to put pressure on it till I know whats up. Anybody know how to remove it?












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[husky drvr]

Hi all. Need advice on removing the back glass trim on my 57 Rapier. Specifically the y shaped trim in each corner that covers the 2 main pieces and goes forward to the drip rail . I see one nut on the inside holding a clip in place. It seems like the y piece should just slide forward.
It can't come straight out because it's behind the drip rail. The rubber gasket is rock hard and I don't want to put pressure on it till I know whats up. Anybody know how to remove it?

Filister,

Until someone with actual experience chimes in, I found a description of the procedures in WSM 124, Section "O", Body.

https://sunbeamalpine.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/16-Body-O.pdf

The procedures for removal and refitting of the Rapier backlight are found on pages 8 and 9.

I don't know if the instructions were updated for later models than yours. I'll try to check.

Hope this helps,

 

[Filister]

Thanks Husky. I missed that section in the manual. But, it still doesn't make sense. I removed the nut specified and as I mentioned above the piece is blocked by the drip rail, unless it slides backward 1/4" which it can't do because of the stud. It seems the piece must slide backward to come out but it's locked in by the rubber gasket and upper and lower trims. I'm afraid to use much force and bend the piece.

Anyway, thanks for looking.

 

[husky drvr]

Anyway, thanks for looking.

No problem and you're welcome.

Now for a laugh - sort of.

I dug out the sI Rapier manual printed in 1956. Guess what, it does NOT contain any information on the body beyond frame dimensions.

I suppose that one was released before how to dismantle the body was documented.

Hopefully, someone across the pond will share their knowledge on your situation.

Have fun,

 

[Filister]

OK, in case someone in the future is interested in removing the rear window stainless, you must:
- Remove the headlining from the lower pillar
- remove the window pinch on weather strip up about 1 foot and 2-3 little clips on the pinch welt holding a cover piece in place
- at this point you may be able to pull back the cover plate and just reach the 5/16" brass nut holding on the stainless trim. This nut is approx 1-1/2"back from the drip rail.
- if not able to reach (I did) you will have to remove the finisher rail that covers the top of the finisher panel, then remove 4 large slot head screws and two tiny screws to remove the cover panel.
- now the nut is easy to get to.

Now, all you have to do is slide the trim back approx 3/8" out from behind the drip rail and pull away.... This is unfortunately not as easy as it sounds. I had to take a knife and clean out dirt and old rubber. It was packed solid. I had to make a little lever tool to put behind the drip rail and pry against the trim to get it to move. once it broke free it popped right off. You may have to loosen the grip on the cross rails.

That leaves the upper and lower cross pieces held in place by tiny screws at each end. These are of course rusted to the point of no slot in the head, so we'll drill them out.... Untouched by any drill bit I had. Fortunately there was enough slop to to turn them a bit at a time until I could grip the heads and remove them. Job done.

A lot of words for something the manual says "Remove the nut and take off the piece" or words to that effect. Anyway knowing how it comes off gives a little more confidence in applying pressure.