Plug wire order on the distributor

[Bill Tippy]

My SV is drivable, but running a little rough.

A while back i had a local shop install the Pertronix electronic ignition kit. It ran a little rough, even then. I thought it was a carb issue. Then the car sat for a couple years. I've recently installed the Weber carb conversion. It started right up but still running a little rough.
I have driven it a few times, a couple miles each time. It's idling at around 1100 rpm when it's warmed up and the choke is off. Slower than 1100 and it starts to stall.

I know there are other things I still need to check, but I got to thinking, what if they installed the spark plug wires in the wrong order on the distributor or put #1 in the wrong spot?

I searched and read a lot of posts on the forum, but couldn't find the answer.

Here's what I've learned and what I found:

The cylinder firing order, starting at the front, should be 1-3-4-2
I labeled all 4 wires in the firing order
1 labeled 1
2 labeled 3
3 labeled 4
4 labeled 2

The current connections on the distributor are
1-4-2-3 going counterclockwise. Certainly not matching the cylinder firing order.
I made the assumption that #1 is is correct on the distributor. partly since it's pointing toward cylinder #1.
I connected the wires in the correct order 1-3-4-2 going counter clockwise.
Best case scenario, it runs better.

Tried to start it. It fired a few times but did not start, or backfire. I didn't try for long. I didn't want to do any damage.

What's going on?

Tomorrow I can take a video of it running, and upload it.
It's too late tonight.

 

[RootesRacer]

Yeah, that aint gonna run...

Should be 1342 counterclockwise on the cap.
You find where #1 is by putting the engine at tdc with the valve cover off and where #1 intake and exhaust valves are both closed (#4 will have the exhaust closing and intake beginning to open). This is the location where the #1 cap position should have the rotor pointing to it.

 

[Bill Tippy]

But it runs pretty good, though rough, in the wrong order. That's what confuses me.

 

[hartmandm]

Stock setup showing 1-3-4-2.



My oil pump must be 180 degrees off, because my setup is 4-2-1-3.



I wouldn't expect any other arrangement to run, as at best you'd only have 2 plugs firing correctly.

Mike

 

[Bill Tippy]

Here's a link to my Alpine running today.
The connections are as described initially - 1-4-2-3

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nkAuJi3VQ9ngHHVo8

 

[RootesRacer]

Here's a link to my Alpine running today.
The connections are as described initially - 1-4-2-3

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nkAuJi3VQ9ngHHVo8

Why did you label the wires in firing order instead of cyl#?

That's the confusion.

 

[hartmandm]

It is hard to see your wires in the video. Looks like they might be connected as 1-3-4-2.

Mike

 

[hartmandm]

Are you sure your tachometer is accurate?

What are you doing with the crankcase ventilation circuit?

Mike

 

[RootesRacer]

Engine sounds to me to be running on 2 cyls.
Get an infrared thermometer and find the cyls on the exhaust that are cold and this will help diagnose your problem.

Earlier this year I had an obvious miss on my engine and the the cold cyl led me to a rotor not held in place well that was causing a weak spark to the #1 cyl.

 

[Tom H]

I have no idea what the numbers mean on your photo. I would expect them to be labelled as to what cyl they go to. But that does not match the photo, which shows shows only #1 going to the correct cyl. Or maybe they represent the order (clockwise) on the cap starting from #1 and going around (1-2-3-4 clockwise) . But that does not match the photo either. So ignoring all numbers except #1 , if #1 is truly #1 (see Rootes Racer's post) then they are wired as 1-3-2-4 , which is correct. And it does run. Next I would check first the static timing, then check the timing with a timing light. And don't trust the car's tach, unless the tach has been calibrated sometime in the past 10 years. Note that your distributor seems to be turned about 15 degrees clockwise from the stock position, but maybe the oil pump is installed one tooth off

 

[Bill Tippy]

I have no idea what the numbers mean on your photo. I would expect them to be labelled as to what cyl they go to. But that does not match the photo, which shows shows only #1 going to the correct cyl. Or maybe they represent the order (clockwise) on the cap starting from #1 and going around (1-2-3-4 clockwise) . But that does not match the photo either. So ignoring all numbers except #1 , if #1 is truly #1 (see Rootes Racer's post) then they are wired as 1-3-2-4 , which is correct. And it does run. Next I would check first the static timing, then check the timing with a timing light. And don't trust the car's tach, unless the tach has been calibrated sometime in the past 10 years. Note that your distributor seems to be turned about 15 degrees clockwise from the stock position, but maybe the oil pump is installed one tooth off

Mine are numbered in the firing order, as it currently sits. Both, on the cylinder and on the distributor.
I listed them counterclockwise since that's the way they were shown or described in the various posts I read.
Mike H. also shared photos of his, numbered the same way. Counterclockwise.
That's the way I thought it would be most understandable.

I marked the timing marks with chalk (one of the few things I remember from the one auto shop class I took in HS) I hooked up the timing light but didn't know exactly how to read the marks. Temporary, I adjusted the timing by ear. I have a friend that is going to come over and show me how to do a few things.

I will also check and confirm that #1 is indeed on the correct connection on the distributor.

 

[hartmandm]

For checking and adjusting ignition timing, see WSM 145, section B2: http://sunbeamalpine.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/5-Engine-B-2.pdf

Mike

 

[Scotty]

I think your wires are out of order. 1-3-4-2 like everyone else is saying, 1 being the plug closest to the fan and then in sequence to the back of the motor. Check the wires to make sure they're not corroded inside because two of mine were and it ran like yours and I actually drove it for a bit before I realized something was wrong. Check to make sure your rotor isn't scorched too, if it is, replace it.

Also, pull the plugs, see if they're wet or smell like gas. If so, replace them and adjust the mixture on the Weber. I had this issue and once I did the above, it runs like new.

I hope this somehow helps. Thank you for keeping an Alpine on the road!