DaisyPusher
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Oil Pressure Sender?
- Thread starter DaisyPusher
- Start date
DaisyPusher
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That might be a useful piece of information. It's a 2.8l Mustang V6
DanR
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2.8 V6 Cologne Engine... oil connection for sender is as you stated bottom left near the manual fuel pump location. Looks like it.
You can use either a 90 or 45 degree elbow and run a pressure line up to the Alpine oil gauge and by pass that thing
Here is what I did to get an emergency cutoff.
Does this answer your question?
You can use either a 90 or 45 degree elbow and run a pressure line up to the Alpine oil gauge and by pass that thing
Here is what I did to get an emergency cutoff.
Does this answer your question?
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DaisyPusher
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Possibly. This engine is brand new to me so pardon my ignorance. The line at the very bottom of you picture, is that the one coming from the sender up top? Did you add everything else? And is that a valve on the left side of the T?
DanR
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DaisyPusher, The line at the very bottom is running up to the stock Alpine Oil gauge.
The pressure switch immediately above that connection is for the emergency cutoff. You don't "need" that to function, only an option I elected.
DanR
P.S. I must add that the switch you display is an electrical sending unit and my comments refer to the "pressure" type switch.
The pressure switch immediately above that connection is for the emergency cutoff. You don't "need" that to function, only an option I elected.
DanR
P.S. I must add that the switch you display is an electrical sending unit and my comments refer to the "pressure" type switch.
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DaisyPusher
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My apologies
My apologies, gentlemen. Me having a custom dash and gauges would have been handy information as well. It looks like there's a little leak running down the line but due to tight quarters I haven't been able to attempt to tighten it. As luck would have it, my father dropped off a set of adjustable ramps as I wrote this so I may be able to check it out from below. Will update soon. Thank you for the information!
My apologies, gentlemen. Me having a custom dash and gauges would have been handy information as well. It looks like there's a little leak running down the line but due to tight quarters I haven't been able to attempt to tighten it. As luck would have it, my father dropped off a set of adjustable ramps as I wrote this so I may be able to check it out from below. Will update soon. Thank you for the information!
DaisyPusher
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DaisyPusher
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So you think the engine is jostling around too much? I see the bottom mounting washer you mentioned before. When you mentioned cutting and welding the new brackets I thought I'd have to cut the old ones out but now I see they're bolted in. Huge sigh of relief for now. Does the biscuit bolt thread into the crossmember or is there a nut inside? Does anything else need to be removed to lift the engine? And what would be a safe lifting point?
DanR
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The jose washer is welded onto the crossmember. A nut is welded under the bottom of the washer. A bolt runs through the top engine mount piece into two piece rubber biscuits, one a bit small than the other. The bolt then screws into the washer that is welded on the crossmember. I should say that is the normal way jose parts are connected.
I believe after you explained the rubber collapsed and the leak at the oil sender, the movement of the engine is the main/major cause.
The engine is probably the best raised utilizing a piece of 2x6x6 inch wood and a good floor jack under the flat area of the oil pan.
Make sure the two engine bolts that screw into the washers (with the nuts) on the crossmember are removed.
Carefully raising the engine, watching for any other part such as the headers; Distributor cap especially have clearance.
Keep us posted as you continue,
DanR
I believe after you explained the rubber collapsed and the leak at the oil sender, the movement of the engine is the main/major cause.
The engine is probably the best raised utilizing a piece of 2x6x6 inch wood and a good floor jack under the flat area of the oil pan.
Make sure the two engine bolts that screw into the washers (with the nuts) on the crossmember are removed.
Carefully raising the engine, watching for any other part such as the headers; Distributor cap especially have clearance.
Keep us posted as you continue,
DanR
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DaisyPusher
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I'm not 100% certain but it doesn't look like the washers or nuts are welded. That explains why I couldn't tighten the RH bolt. Dan, is welding your brackets in necessary or can it be a direct bolt-on replacement?
DanR
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Matt, Here are two PIC's from where I was installing the jose kit I bought "before" I designed my own components.
One is showing the jose washer with the nut afixed to the underside. The other is showing how it is supposed to fit in a hole prepared by the installer, placed in position and then welded....
Special Note: the holes in my crossmember are about 2-2 1/2" farther toward the front on my crossmember because I did not use the jose engine mounts that came in the kit.... I was not at all happy having them sit on the back edge of the crossmember.
I designed a mount that "looked" a lot like jose's that I refer to as "Big-Foot" because it had a larger base in which to fasten the engine.
Send me an E-mail for additional pictures.
One is showing the jose washer with the nut afixed to the underside. The other is showing how it is supposed to fit in a hole prepared by the installer, placed in position and then welded....
Special Note: the holes in my crossmember are about 2-2 1/2" farther toward the front on my crossmember because I did not use the jose engine mounts that came in the kit.... I was not at all happy having them sit on the back edge of the crossmember.
I designed a mount that "looked" a lot like jose's that I refer to as "Big-Foot" because it had a larger base in which to fasten the engine.
Send me an E-mail for additional pictures.
Attachments
DaisyPusher
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Engine Mount Nuts
The first one looks like it's newer. Maybe a replacement because it rounded out the area? That must explain why I couldn't tighten the right bolt down. Either way, I'm wondering if I should pull the trigger on new brackets or just get new biscuits. I'd like the peace of mind with new hardware. How labor-intensive is the installation?
The first one looks like it's newer. Maybe a replacement because it rounded out the area? That must explain why I couldn't tighten the right bolt down. Either way, I'm wondering if I should pull the trigger on new brackets or just get new biscuits. I'd like the peace of mind with new hardware. How labor-intensive is the installation?
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DanR
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You will have to raise your engine to replace the currently collapsed biscuits, so, remove your upper engine mount (two bolts) one side at a time. Place the bottom piece on the cross member (over the washer) with the Anchor 2424 rubber biscuit bottom stud fastened to the new bottom piece, thread the Anchor 2424 upper stud into the "new" upper engine mount piece, bolt the "new" top mount piece in place (two bolts).
Ease the engine back down until the "new" bottom engine mount pieces touch the cross member. Align them so that they fit snug to the cross member, check side clearance for the headers. If satisfied with adequate clearance "tack" weld in positions indicated in the PIC's I sent you earlier.
Remove the nut holding the upper Anchor 2424 to the upper engine mount and it's two bolts from the engine. Complete the weld along the edges mated to the cross member. Do both sides. Bolt the pieces back in place as you sit the engine in position....
I said all that to say it is a simple process easily accomplished. Only difficult problem my be if the jose washers are protruding "off" the rear of the cross member, then simply grind or cut them off even with the cross member.
Ease the engine back down until the "new" bottom engine mount pieces touch the cross member. Align them so that they fit snug to the cross member, check side clearance for the headers. If satisfied with adequate clearance "tack" weld in positions indicated in the PIC's I sent you earlier.
Remove the nut holding the upper Anchor 2424 to the upper engine mount and it's two bolts from the engine. Complete the weld along the edges mated to the cross member. Do both sides. Bolt the pieces back in place as you sit the engine in position....
I said all that to say it is a simple process easily accomplished. Only difficult problem my be if the jose washers are protruding "off" the rear of the cross member, then simply grind or cut them off even with the cross member.