oil pan

[skywords]

Did the 1492 have a different oil pan than the 1592 and 1725? I bought one on e-bay and it looks like the oil pan is missing but the seller says it is there.
Cost was on the high side but if it is as advertised well.........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190119977547&ru=http://motors.search.ebay.com:80/190119977547_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1

 

[alpine_64]

Rick,

The motor is a 1725cc with a late alloy head on it, no sparking plugs so either VERY late alpine or arrow/hunter range. The oil dip stick goes straight into the block aswell, so its not a 3 main bearing, its the 5.

Looks like somene has bolted all the early ancillaries onto a late block and head.

http://i14.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/a3/32/9a6f_3.JPG

 

[Wombat]

Rick

The 1725 is different. It does not have the dipstick tube on the side of the sump. Also the baffle inside is different to clear the 1725 oil pump. I don't know if it will also clear the earlier oil pump. I also have a suspicion that the spacing of the studs where the stay brackets attach is diferent on the 1725 (at least it was on mine with what is probably a Hillman Hunter block). Will check in the parts book this evening.

 

[65beam]

motor

if you look below the oil filter you will see the mounting holes for the motor mounts for the hunter range of cars.this block came out of a car built after the alpines ceased production in 1967.it's a 1725 block and head.no doubt about it.

 

[RootesRacer]

Did the 1492 have a different oil pan than the 1592 and 1725? I bought one on e-bay and it looks like the oil pan is missing but the seller says it is there.
Cost was on the high side but if it is as advertised well.........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190119977547&ru=http://motors.search.ebay.com:80/190119977547_W0QQfromZR40QQfviZ1

Pan is covered by the crate, but as others have told you, you have bought a very late 1725. The oil cannister filter and base should be tossed immediately when you get it home, in favor of the oil filter and base that goes with a 1725.

Additionally, you have a non-sync trans, and definitely a SI radiator (due to the small hose nipples).

Lastly, 1725 engines oil runs much hotter than the earlier engines, I dont know why but it definitely does. Therefore the second thing you should do is to find an oil cooler solution before you apply the new engine.

 

[skywords]

Wow maybe good, maybe bad? I take things at face value and the 1494 is what I thought I bought. I have not overhauled any of these and don't know the dif. They said it was dyno tested? But who knows, I hope the bits are worth what I paid. If I,m real lucky it will be a runner.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[skywords]

Pan is covered by the crate, but as others have told you, you have bought a very late 1725. The oil cannister filter and base should be tossed immediately when you get it home, in favor of the oil filter and base that goes with a 1725.

Additionally, you have a non-sync trans, and definitely a SI radiator (due to the small hose nipples).

Lastly, 1725 engines oil runs much hotter than the earlier engines, I dont know why but it definitely does. Therefore the second thing you should do is to find an oil cooler solution before you apply the new engine.

Dang I hoped that was sychro trans. My Series II has a 1725 with no cooler. I do not know what the oil temp is running but the coolant stays with in perameters if you believe the gauge.

 

[RootesRacer]

Dang I hoped that was sychro trans. My Series II has a 1725 with no cooler. I do not know what the oil temp is running but the coolant stays with in perameters if you believe the gauge.

You want to buy a nice allsync?

I have several that I am going to have to lug on my move to Colorado in 3 or so weeks.

On you way out to Ca to get your new motor, stop down this way and buy some of my heavy bits.

God knows I'm too stupid to toss them .

 

[skywords]

You want to buy a nice allsync?

I have several that I am going to have to lug on my move to Colorado in 3 or so weeks.

On you way out to Ca to get your new motor, stop down this way and buy some of my heavy bits.

God knows I'm too stupid to toss them .

Well I wish I could, I am having the engine shipped. How far from Acid Trip Park are you (isn't google earth wonderful?)? My kids keep bugging and proding me to take them back to Dizzyland.

 

[RootesRacer]

Well I wish I could, I am having the engine shipped. How far from Acid Trip Park are you (isn't google earth wonderful?)? My kids keep bugging and proding me to take them back to Dizzyland.

No clue where "acid trip park" is, my guess is its in the SF bay area, where such activities gained prominence.

I do however live only 7 miles from dizzyland.

 

[jumpinjan]

Dang I hoped that was sychro trans.

Rick,
Here is what I see. The trans is a complete series I w/small slave & adjustable rod. The 1725 block has been converted over for a series I swap. It has all the series I stuff, including the tach drive distributor, so it must have a 1600 camshaft and oil pump drive gear from a 1600. I cannot see the flywheel, but the series I has 2-dowl pins vs. the 3 pins in the series II, 3 & IV. If it has the 2-pins, you might want to redrill it or replace it, so you can run the bigger 3-pin clutches (9-spring or diaphram). Or just pull them out and run it without the pins(The pins are there to help installation).
It does have the very late 1725 head. There's no heat riser tap in the late head, so no water flow possible in the early intake manifold. The intake manifold is a later 1600, not seriesI, because it has the brake servo vacuum pickoff. The valve cover is NOT seriesI, it looks like a 1725, but they replaced the oil filler/breather with an early one and as well as the side cover is early.
The engine block is missing the bellhousing alignment bolt on the right side, you need one for sure.
It looks like the water pump & pulley is NOT series I, it looks later.
Jan

 

[skywords]

No clue where "acid trip park" is, my guess is its in the SF bay area, where such activities gained prominence.

I do however live only 7 miles from dizzyland.

Go on Google Earth and it shows Acid Trip Park right in Fullerton Ca. It has bunch of large modern artsie fartsie type sculptures in it. How long have you been there? I am the same way I still don't know everything that is in Tucson. You know them Hippies they did migrate.

When I was in airframe and powerplant school at the College of Alameda in the Gay Bay. We were required to weld miles of scrap 4130 steel pieces together. I remember the instructor saying to a friend who had made the most bizar creation from his bits " Hey paint it and take it to Tiberon you'll make a fortune! "

 

[skywords]

Rick,
Here is what I see. The trans is a complete series I w/small slave & adjustable rod. The 1725 block has been converted over for a series I swap. It has all the series I stuff, including the tach drive distributor, so it must have a 1600 camshaft and oil pump drive gear from a 1600. I cannot see the flywheel, but the series I has 2-dowl pins vs. the 3 pins in the series II, 3 & IV. If it has the 2-pins, you might want to redrill it or replace it, so you can run the bigger 3-pin clutches (9-spring or diaphram). Or just pull them out and run it without the pins(The pins are there to help installation).
It does have the very late 1725 head. There's no heat riser tap in the late head, so no water flow possible in the early intake manifold. The intake manifold is a later 1600, not seriesI, because it has the brake servo vacuum pickoff. The valve cover is NOT seriesI, it looks like a 1725, but they replaced the oil filler/breather with an early one and as well as the side cover is early.
The engine block is missing the bellhousing alignment bolt on the right side, you need one for sure.
It looks like the water pump & pulley is NOT series I, it looks later.
Jan

Thats what that port at the aft end of the intake is for. Might be interesting to use for a manifold pressure gauge. Will the lack of water in the induction manifold cause the carbs to run to hot or ice up on a cold day? I have plenty of early rocker covers to replace that one with. Is the bellhousing bolt a special bolt ground to a certain tolorance and length?

 

[RootesRacer]

Go on Google Earth and it shows Acid Trip Park right in Fullerton Ca. It has bunch of large modern artsie fartsie type sculptures in it. How long have you been there?
"

Um, not seeing Acid Trip Park in Fullerton in google or any other map.

Ive lived in or near Fullerton for the better part of my life, and Ive never heard of such a place, not round here anyhow.

I did a search for "acid trip park" and came up with a photograph of a twisted swingset, it had a caption saying something about Anahiem, but it doesnt show up there either.

 

[65beam]

engine

jan,
isn't it possible that they changed the gear on the distributor to work with the 1725 cam and oil pump? as far as the alignment bolt on the late engines,remember that the bell housing is different on the hunter range.i have three of these motors without the alignment pin on them.the 69 gt that i'm working on did not have the pin and it has 31000 miles on it and is an all original car.???

 

[skywords]

Um, not seeing Acid Trip Park in Fullerton in google or any other map.

Ive lived in or near Fullerton for the better part of my life, and Ive never heard of such a place, not round here anyhow.

I did a search for "acid trip park" and came up with a photograph of a twisted swingset, it had a caption saying something about Anahiem, but it doesnt show up there either.

Screen print from google earth.

 

[RootesRooter]

Assuming the head and block originally came off the line together, you should find the VIN (stamped on the block on the little 'shelf' just in front of the oil filter base) reads "B3990xxxxxx." Also check for the block manufacture date in raised numbers just over the starter. It looks like the PO kept the Arrow Range lower pulley/dampner. Unless adjustments were made to the generator bracket and fan pulley, the fan belt may be slightly out of alignment, as the Arrow pulley isn't as deep as on the Series cars.

 

[skywords]

Assuming the head and block originally came off the line together, you should find the VIN (stamped on the block on the little 'shelf' just in front of the oil filter base) reads "B3990xxxxxx." Also check for the block manufacture date in raised numbers just over the starter. It looks like the PO kept the Arrow Range lower pulley/dampner. Unless adjustments were made to the generator bracket and fan pulley, the fan belt may be slightly out of alignment, as the Arrow pulley isn't as deep as on the Series cars.

The engine is being picked up by my favorite car transporter after fathersday. I will check these things when I get it. Thanks all I cannot believe the detailed knowlege that you all have provided for me I feel I know this engine better than the seller and then some. I am looking forward to seeing it and I will try to confirm your thoughts and observations on this post. I purchased this engine for the Series II project that will be my son's first car. We have seven years to complete it as a father son project Brian (age 9) my boy is cleaning up parts and painting them for future use, That is the parts I am not robbing for the Q4. I can't start on it untill after the Q4 is finished. He is so sad it is the more powerful engine.... ya right.

Thanks All

 

[jumpinjan]

jan,
isn't it possible that they changed the gear on the distributor to work with the 1725 cam and oil pump?

Bob,
I have converted a few of these 1725 to use the tach drive and the 1600 cam & distributor gear is required. The 1725 distributor gear drive dog is too short to reach the 1600 distributor. I suppose it could be cut & welded to the longer length?