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New owner with lots of questions

mackzknife

mackzknife

Donation Time
After 10 years of searching I just got an Alpine. The build date suggests it was made in August of 1966. I am picking the car up and trailering it to a friends farm where I will be working on it. The car was pulled apart to start a restoration about 15 years ago and has been in storage untouched for the last 10 years. The engine and transmission were just removed to be put into another Alpine so I will be putting in something else.

I have a bunch of questions that I hope the forum can help me with.

1. If the car was built in the week of August 15-19 1966 is it a 66 or a 67?

2. The code is 39 which gives it a body colour of Embassy Red but the interior is red carpet and the seats seem to be red and white. was this an option or has the interior been swapped out?

3. What is the best way to get rid of spiders and their webs from the car? It is very full of cobwebs.

4. It looks like the luggage rack is intact but removed and put in the trunk, were these an option or stock? Is it worth fitting it back on the car?

5. What engine and tranny options have been done by other forum members and are there any writeups? I have seen the 2.8l Ford talked about a lot on here and it sounds interesting but I want to see as many options as I can.

6. Was the rear window in the hardtop supposed to be plexiglass?

7. Was there a clock in the stock dash? One spot has been replaced with a power gauge? I think from the 70's, I believe it is a vacuum gauge.

8. Is the stock heating system any good or should it be swapped out for something made by Vintage Air or a similar company.

9. What is the best way to clean up the chrome bumpers and trim? It looks OK with not a lot of pitting but I wont know until I get all the dirt off.

10. What is the SAL plate?
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
5. What engine swaps have been done by members. Here is what I know about the subject.

Virtually any 5 speed transmission is gong to require tunnel modification. Usually no more than widening. This is not a hard job, just awkward to get to.

Engines that have been swapped:

Ford small block. Big job, lots of mods required. The type of job that falls into the "If you have to ask, don't do it" category.

Ford 2.3. In general, a good choice. The engine length presents problems. Also, the engine block mounts are in the center of the engine, like to interfere with the steering arms. Requires custom exhaust manifold or headers, stock carb intake can be used.

Ford "Pinto" 2.0. Shorter than the 2.3. Same problem with motor mounts. Requires custom exhaust manifold or headers. No "correct" 5 speed readily available in the U.S.

Iron Duke. Requires removal of a large section of the cross member. Other than that, fit pretty well.

I've heard of several carburetored Toyotas being used. Know nothing of the particulars.

Ford Duratec 2.3. I'm in the process of installing one. Not a good candidate. The front portion of the oil pan is wide, requiring a cutout of the cross member. Intake and exhaust manifolds have to be fabricated as well as water outlet.

GM 2.8 -3.4 V6. Presents problems with steering box. A current member just completed one, had to swap out the stock steering box for a rack and pinion setup.

There are several other swaps in the works. A more modern Toyota, a Saturn and an Olds Quad Four. Perhaps they will come forth with their experience.

Bill
 
bobw

bobw

Donation Time
5. What engine swaps have been done by members. Here is what I know about the subject.

I'm currently working on a Mazda 13B installation in a 1967 SV. I cut away more of the cross member than I needed to, and have welded some material back. Most of the tunnel was cut away and will be made a little wider, and I can make a lower hump under the dash. Transmission is a 1988 Mazda RX-7 5 speed. I might have been able to put the engine an inch or so farther forward as I had to cut away some of the cross brace (not sure what it's called) that spans the car in near the front of the seat. I will add bracing in some way around the gear shift lever. Hope to have it running in a couple of months but I estimated I would have it running in October when I started. ;)

8. Is the stock heating system any good or should it be swapped out for something made by Vintage Air or a similar company.

I bought my first Alpine from a friend of mine in 1979. At the time he told me he had chosen the Alpine because it was the only English sports car that had a heater that worked.
 
mackzknife

mackzknife

Donation Time
As luck would have it I have found out more about the car.

The car had University of Victoria parking stickers on it and my friends Mum went to UVic in 1967. She remembered the car and its original owner. It was red with Black top and upholstery with red piping.

After going through the car yesterday I found that the upholstery had been professionally changed at some point in the past as was the soft top. The interior is in good shape but very dirty from being stored. Unfortunately the Cream top is ruined because there was standing water in the recess. The top is rust stained and has shrunk.
 
Ron67Alpine

Ron67Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Wasn't there more to this thread a couple of days ago? I know I brought back some good rum from St Thomas, but I distinctly remember answers to more of the questions and a discussion about upholstery...or was that another thread? :confused:


Sorry, never mind, it was in the Stock Alpine group...same topic line:eek::)
 
mackzknife

mackzknife

Donation Time
More questions

I have a few more questions for the forum....

1. I have no radiator in the car, what is a good alternative rad?

2. Is it worth moving the battery to the trunk or is the existing battery box a good spot being in the centre of the car?

3. Is the plexi rear window in the hardtop a flat piece or is there a curve (I am considering having one cut at the plastic shop here in town.

4. Anyone know of a source for a hood latch or of a suitable alternative?
 
M

mikephillips

Donation Time
The original hardtop rear window has a curve molded into it. However you can use a flat piece of plexi and let it bend when you install it. The curve is fairly gentle so it doesn't hurt anything. As for the radiator, see if you can get an original and then recore it, type of core dependent on what engine choice you make. The latch, get a used series III on assembly, but try to get the rod type pull rather than the later cable, no chance of breakage with the rod.
 
B

BRZDAD67

Donation Time
New owner toooooo !

Hi Mackzknife,

I too am a new Alpine owner. I picked up a S V 1967 and also have lots of questions. This car however is complete. It's been sitting for about 3 years and was running when it was parked. I have a set of pretty good manuals from the previous owner, and this has already received the Capri V6 (not sure exactly which engine it is yet) mod.

My daughter and I are planning to restore this for her college graduation present.

I'm sure we'll both run across good advice and answers to perhaps mutual questions. Please keep me in mind when you receive a nugget that might help us both. I'll be sure to pass along any info I have also. Send me some pics of your project and I'll do the same. kirljam@centurytel.net

One question I do have. On the hard top - can anyone provide me pictures of the front bottom area where the window meet the top frame. The top I have seems to be modified and I would like to see an example of a stock top.

Thanks. Look forward to sharing with everyone.

BRZDAD67
 
M

mikephillips

Donation Time
If it's an original steel hardtop compare it to the front bow of the soft top, the latches and steel work on the inside should be pretty much the same.
 
B

BRZDAD67

Donation Time
Hard Top Question

Thanks Mike,

I guess I didn't describe the area I was concerned about correctly. The area I'm concerned about is the front part of the rear window. It's right where the door ends and the frame for the hard top begins). On the top I have it seems that the top (where it sits on the body) has been hollowed out to allow for the door window to fit? It really looks bad, but would appreciate anyone providing me a picture of what the stock fit should be.

Thanks

BRZDAD67
 
M

mikephillips

Donation Time
That area is supposed to be like that. The door window goes up against the front of the quarter window mount overlapping rather than making a butt type joint. There is a weather strip on the top attached to the front of the quarter window assembly, looks like the rubber from a wiper blade, that the door glass presses against.
 
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